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roll bar extention


yellowss7

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I'm curious to know how sturdy it would be if you really needed it. I just talked to a fabricator about extending my FIA roll bar. He is thinking it would be easier to just make up a new tall roll bar.

 

Anyone know why Caterham stopped making the tall FIA bar?

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Karl,

 

I don't think there are many of us well over 200 pounds and way over 6 feet driving 7's. So the need for a tall bar is low I guess and the top won't fit, like Martin said.

 

I found your car very comfortable, look forward to hearing the new Cosworth.

 

Colin Chapman would be proud of you !!!

Edited by S1Steve
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The type of "scab on" rollbar extension as seen in the pix would most likely fail in any type of rollover where it would be truly needed. I have built numerous rollbars (single-hoop, half width, full width, etc) along with full-on rollcage structures for street, vintage, and SCCA prepared 7's and Caterhams and would be happy to either build or assist with designing something suitable for anyone on this site. In fact, I have just finished a bolt in rollbar assembly for my own BDR powered Caterham that is being built with track day use in mind. It is very comparable to the FIA style Caterham bar and can tell you that the cost of duplicating would be far less than what Caterham was charging for that item! Please feel free to contact me if you are interested in doing a bar and I'll be happy to forward some pix of bars that I have done in the past. Thanks, Craig

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Craig:

 

Why not do a separate post on the forum and add photos? A recurrent topic amongst our members is how to improve existing roll over/collision protection. So you might generate some interest. I know I'd like to see the bolt in assembly you have just completed. Wouldn't hurt either to add some estimated prices for various systems.

 

Mike M.

Edited by Kitcat
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Karl,

 

I just tried to upload 3 different rollbar pix but kept getting error messages. Perhaps I could email the pix directly to you or some other kind soul on this site and ask for assistance in getting them posted. I'd be happy to send the pix to you if you'd consider this (and provide me with an email address) I could then make some follow-up comments relating to the criteria used when building the individual rollbars shown in the photos. Thanks in advance, Craig

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Here are some pictures of Craig's creations!

 

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/Roll%20Bar/silver_and_walker_lotus_rollbars.jpg

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/Roll%20Bar/red_bar.jpg

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/Roll%20Bar/DSC05117.jpg

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/blubarisax/Roll%20Bar/DSC05115.jpg

Edited by blubarisax
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I have talked with Craig. He is going to make some bolt-in side intrusion bars that connect up w/my Caterham FIA car, and the car's under dash hoop, for track day use. Since mine is a everyday car, I want to be able to use the top so can't weld in the bars. Predicted cost: $100-200.00.

 

Also bought a rebuilt Crossflow from him while I was at it.

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Tom, I replied, let me know if you get it, I seem to be having a PM glitch.

 

FWIW, Craig said the bolt in bars wld duplicate the welded, just attach w/bolts. From photos above, I cant tell if bar eats up foot/leg space. It is inside the car, but high, so I doubt it.

Edited by Kitcat
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Karl,

 

First and foremost, thanks for helping post the pix! In terms of the various cars and rollbar designs I'll make a few comments here. All of the "race car" rollbars are 100% welded in with no removeable components. The blue car is a SCCA F Production car and represents what is more or less a "full rollcage" per SCCA rules. It has a full-width main hoop with 2 side intrusion bars on each side, plus forward and rearward facing diagonal bars. The two silver cars are both vintage race cars. One has a single-hoop design that extends to the passenger side of the car (the all-silver clamshell fendered car). The main hoop on that car actually attaches to the floor immediately behind/beside the seats and this feature offers an extra degree of side intrusion protection. The fact that the main hoop extends to the top rear parcel shelf cover on the passenger side before turning downwards to the floor allowed me to affix a side intrusion bar on the passenger side that was more or less symmetrical to the one on the driver's side. On the silver/red cycle fendered car, the goal was to build the car as light and as safe as possible and the main hoop extends only to the center of the chassis (there is plenty of sub-structure underneath the rear tonneau cover to support that leg of the main hoop). This main hoop attaches to the chassis at the top of the shock tower on the drivers side, and the side intrusion bar on the driver's side is probably the closest example of what I would build for Mike (or anyone else)in a "bolt in" version for occasional track day use. The front attachment point would be just underneath the dash height and should not intrude into the interior in any capacity. I would use doubler plates to attach the side-intrusion bars both front and rear. The rollbar that you see on the yellow chassis (that is my 1978 BDA powered Caterham that I just posted for sale) is obviously a full-width FIA style "bolt-in" bar. It is 1.5" diameter tubing (all of the race cars are 1.375 diameter tube) and while there is no diagonal within the plane of the main hoop, with .120 wall thickness main hoop, I can assure you that the chassis would deform long before the rollbar! I could make this style of bar in pretty much any height required and would be happy to add a diagonal within the plane of the main hoop should someone feel more comfortable with that. In terms of side intrusion bars, my preference is to radius them out and away from the chassis (and any potential arm/shoulder interference) by 2" to 3" and then have them angle back inwards towards the front hoop. This is probably best represented in the picture of the #5 silver/red cycle fendered car, and the driver's side bar. I've done several other designs, but there are fairly representative of what I think offers maximum protection with the best asthetics. I'm happy to work with anyone on this site to build a bar that exactly suits your needs. Craig

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I had a copy of mine made to where my helmet is now below the roll bar, not above. I also lowered the floor 1". I now am about 3" below. I also had a new top made to fit the tall bar. We are close to a large group of Amish. I think one of the canvas top shops charged me about $200 for a new one. The rear windows are taller, so in scale it looks fine. We kept the door window height the same so I didn't need new doors. Once I get my head in the door, I have more head room to finish the rough climb in.

 

Gary

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