Al N. Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 I know Michael D's trailer set up is floating around here somewhere, but does anyone have reccos on open trailer dimensions (length/width). It will be used only for the Se7en and a Polaris Ranger (4 wd golf cart thing), but not at the same time. Before I go kick some tires, I'm most interested in the suggested length...will 14 feet be enough/too much, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Al, I've been looking at trailers recently. I need one that is light, has brakes and will also accomodate my 13' Miata that sits much lower than the Caterham. Because of the Miata, a tilt bed seems to be the only way to go. I have narrowed it down to two so far, both from H&H. Because of cost and availability, I will likely get the H&H Solid Side (SS) single axle tilt bed in 8.5' x 14'. It weighs about 1,500 lb. http://www.hhtrailer.com/05SSTiltbedUtilityTrailer.asp It will run a little over $1,600 after the brakes are added. Note that most trailer sizes are overall width and bed length, thus this 8.5' wide trailer has an 82" bed width. Because of the solid sides I need the widest bed so I can both open the door with the Miata on the trailer and have room to make tiedown connections. I would prefer the H&H MXA Speedloader which is an aluminum tiltbed with tandem axles but cost and length (minimum 18') make it impractical for me. It actually weighs less than the steel 14' SSA but costs about $3,800. http://www.hhtrailer.com/06MXSpeedLoader.asp If you can live with a tailgate ramp, there is an aluminum version of the SS in 8.5 x 14 that costs around $2,600 and weighs about 1,100 lb without brakes. http://www.hhtrailer.com/06Aluminum.asp I keep hoping a good used trailer will become available and have looked at and rejected a number of them. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solder_guy Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 umm .. I was thinking of adding a hitch to the back of my Rotus so I could pull a trailer! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif Rob M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevet Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Al, I remember Aluma Trailers being talked about a while back - no personal experience, but all aluminum and relatively light weight... see here http://www.alumaklm.com/ Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew7 Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Al, Mine is a small cutom built. A 6'x10' box with removable sides. The wheels are outside the box and my wide 7 fits perfectly. Pa. law has #3000gvw no brakes or inspection and my #1000 trailer means I can haul a ton. It was loaded and pulled by a little 4cyl 4sp Ranger truck. 12' is a good lenght but 8.5' is very WIDE. I think a 7'-8' by 12-14 trailier is a good size. If you don't need a 8.5'x18' double axle w/brakes to haul a car,tools,tires its less hassel. I also use 6' long ramps because the fold up tailgate ramps offer a lot of wind resistance. Manuverability and storage should also be consideration. It's possible to load Orange on a small trailer and back it into a small garage for winter storage, then come summer leave the trailer out for easy access and use. andrew72007-03-29 10:54:58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I think my trailer is 6x12'. It was originally built for a sand rail and loads a Seven amazingly quickly and easily. We've used it for Miatas as well although I'd call that a full load. It cost me about $600 used. Takes a bit of maintenance though - I've put on tires, reinforced the base, welded up and reinforced some problem areas, replaced a hub and rewired it. Still, I have under $1000 in the thing and it did 5000 miles in March. http://www.cheapsportscar.net/images/Img_5762.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al N. Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Thanks all...the Alumas are nice as are the Featherlites that are sold near me. Trying to keep costs down though...those are both around $4K new. Should have bought Lance's trailer last year when I had the chance! Keep in mind my Honda Pilot only has a 4500 tow rating, so the aluminum makes a difference. Andrew7...would love to see a pix of your trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 My trailer is an old boat trailer with a 6.5x10 flatbed made of catwalk added. It has been very handy since the the entire bed is a tie down point. It will probably be a bit short for the 7 which will be taken care of by angle pockets for the tires being added. Total cost was $300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al N. Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Another question...single axle vs. double...I know the Se7en isn't heavy, but isn't the double inherently more stable? And what is everyone's opinion on brakes vs. no brakes? Since I think I'm splitting the cost with my father-in-law, I'm going to err on the side of safety... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Sounds as if you've already made up your mind then http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif I've never had any instability concerns, nor has the lack of brakes on my trailer been a problem. The plus to the single axle is that the trailer is lighter, and since there aren't any brakes I don't have to worry about having a controller on the tow vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al N. Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 Thanks Keith...I could be swayed in the direction of single/no brakes. Just need more posts like yours! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 A plus with single axle is that the toll is less than 2 axle, sometimes quite a bit. The minis is that if a tire blows you have a bit more of a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al N. Posted March 30, 2007 Author Share Posted March 30, 2007 And then I'll get another POV that puts me back in the double axle/surge brake category! http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Keep in mind that a light trailer with a Seven on it weighs less than our race trailer - a 20' enclosed Pace with brakes and two axles - does empty. I don't claim to be a towing expert, but I've put a lot more mileage on my trailer than I ever expected (I'd guess at least 12,000 miles) and it's never given me a tense moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I just put in an order for an H&H 18' MX Speedloader in aluminum. I waffled back and forth between that and their steel single axle 8.5 x 14 tilt bed. The aluminum MX is also a tilt bed and actually weighs within a few pounds of the shorter single axle trailer (1,400 lb). I was unable to find a ramp type trailer that my Miata could use, it has 2 3/4" clearance under the chassis bracing with more front overhang than the Caterham. The only trailer I have been able to get it on had to be disconnected from the tow car and allowed to lift on the front from the weight of the car. Since I will be hauling the Miata as well as the Cat I wanted brakes. I did have one close call with the borrowed single axle trailer with no brakes on a long down hill. Made a believer out of me. I didn't really need an 18' trailer but that is the shortest they make it in the aluminum version. It will give me room for a tire rack and tool box up front. Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew7 Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Hi Al, Sorry no pics, but Kieth has "The Trailer". Mine is very similiar, 2' shorter and no tire bar, plus Dad added truck air bags they have 40,000lb cap. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rofl.gif Single axle is the way to go for you and what Keith said about the Miata being max load is correct for a single axle. The Pilot or any similiar SUV in the future will have about the same towing capacity and will have the brakes to stop it. If you tow alot of miles over a 3000lb limit go duals w/brakes. The only instability you would see is if you have alot of weight behind the axle which lightens the hitch weight and "wags" the tow vehical. A rule of thumb is the hitch weight is %10-%15 of total weight. The moneys yours but a steel trailer will do fine, less expense and can easily be modified for future changes. Mig or A/O weld on brackets or boxes then later if you choose cut them off. An aluminum trailer is harder to modify. For small trailers like ours aluminum to me won't save much weight and you probably couldn't tell the difference driving down the road. A 8.5'x20' fully enclosed, yes. Most here would love the forementioned given to them but factor in cost, storage, weight, and manuvering. You will find smaller and cheaper is better, "Add Lightness". Be careful of "two-footitis", I don't want to see you stuck on the Dragon with a 40' box http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsimon Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Having had some bad experiences with single axle trailers, I opted for tandem axles. Single axles and non-equalized tandem axles (torsion bar type) are wishy-washy to say the least, especially when negotiating drain pans, pot holes, and speed bumps. Just too damn bouncy. My current trailer is lightweight all steel construction with tandem equalized axles and 13" wheels. The frame structures are folded sheet steel and rectangular structural tubing. The deck is 72" X 120" and only 10" off the ground, a little small, but adequate for a Seven. 8' aluminium ATV ramps load the car nicely, but I do have to put a couple of turns into the landing gear to drop the back low enough to clear the bell housing. The trailer can remain hitched during this maneuver. Weight is around 1200 lbs. In tight turns the trailer wheels apex about 6" inside the rear wheels of the Tahoe. It tows like a dream even at three digit speeds. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif You have to constantly remind yourself that you are towing something as there isn't even the slightest influence transmitted to the tow vehicle. Well, OK maybe acceleration suffers a bit.http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/rolleyes5.gif I disabled the original surge brakes. I could never manage to get the surge brake back-up feature to work properly. I had to get out and pin the coupler manually to back up. Newer model surge brake couplers have much better back-up functions from what I understand. Unfortunately, I can't remember the make of the trailer. I do recall that it was built by a commercial mass producer of boat trailers. I picked it up at a farm sale for $300. A few hundred dollars in parts and a shake-n-shine BRG paint job made it into a Farmer John Lotus. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/thumbsup.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew7 Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 It tows like a dream even at three digit speeds. Having had some bad experiences with single axle trailers I hope you live and tow in Kalifornia and not anywhere near me! I've slid into intersections at 30mph and that was with a small 24' 3500lb travel trailer with dual axles and brakes. Towing isn't to be taken lightly but it is safe provided you drive it like a big truck and not like a Corvette. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowss7 Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 Andrew7 posted " Towing isn't to be taken lightly" You got that right! I totaled my wife's Durango towing my 7 in an 18 ft enclosed Pace trailer. The trailer started swaying, then it got really bad and caused me to bounce off the left guardrail (from the right lane) and then back to end up on and almost over the right guardrail. Trailer jacknifed. Force was so great it straightend out the metal tie down strap hooks. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif 7 slid forward about 2 feet, with only a slight ding to the left rear wing when it hit the inside fender well of the trailer. This all happend on the NE extention of the PA Turnpike and I was only doing 55 when it started. Someone told me I should have squeezed the trailer brake controller and accelarated. Yeah, that's not as easy as it sounds. Wife won't let me tow anymore. Stay safe Tomyellowss72007-03-31 11:57:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew7 Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 I glad to hear you, your wife and the seven weren't hurt. Yes, the controller and gas pedal trick would have worked and I've used them myself. Larger trailers require vehicals with longer wheelbases. The trailer wags you. Short wheelbase suvs like Broncos, Jeeps, and Durangos have tougher times with swaying but if you keep the trailer short and put more weight on the hitch you'll be O.K. My 30' travel trailer will move my van around at 55 if I'm not loaded correctly and wind gust will push it around also. In the last 10 years, the couple of close calls I've had were related to stopping same as big riggs. You find out you don't stop like a car but gradually slow down and eventually stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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