jimrankin Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Saw a post somewhere on this forum a couple of years back about replacing the standard "all thread" heim joint bolts on a WCM S2K with shoulder bolts to try to reduce the noise created by the loose fit around the threads. I'm not sure just what section it was posted in so figured I'd see if someone remembers just where/when before I tax my already limited vision with reading them all. My steel on steel heim joints seem to be very tight and don't seem to be the issue so thought I'd try the replacement bolts first. Thanks for any help. JR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderbrake Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 I assumed the clanking suspension noise was from worn heim joints, due to dirt having worn them out, so I replaced my heim joints with slightly narrower ones from QA1 that allowed me to add the sealing washers on each side. I put them back on the old bolts and it really quieted the suspension noise. As I remember all those are on 1/2 inch diameter bolts, so to get a shoulder screw to fit you have to match the length of bolt to the length of the heim + the tabs. There are not a lot of lengths available in a 1/2 inch sholder bolt, and they have a 3/8 nut on them. here is a link to the Fastenall site for shoulder bolts. http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/product/fasteners/sockets/socket-shoulder-bolts/_/Navigation?searchterm=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=&refine=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600039 Sockets"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602314 Socket Shoulder Bolts"|~ ~|sattr03:^"Alloy Steel"$|~ ~|sattr01:^1/2"$|~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx7locost Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 AN8 bolts are a good compromise. The unthreaded lengths are in 1/8" increments all the way up to 3-5/16" so they can be sized to fit completely thru the heim and the chassis tabs. This would require flat washer(s) and lock washer outside the tabs to ensure the nut thread does not bottom out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Here's the link http://usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=3624 I looked into this in January but didn't move forward: From: info@bakerprecision.com It looks like the ones on the car are the 2pieces narrow bearings. I can order them in for you with the Teflon. They will give you more travel. The ones on the diff bracket look more like the 3 piece with the beefier head. $17.55 CMX10-8T (right or left) $17.25 CMX10T $14.53 CMXL8T Delivery to me will be late next week. Let me know if you would like me to order them in. Thank you, Darlene Baker Baker Precision Bearing | Serving the Industry Since 1969 2865 Gundry Ave • Signal Hill, CA 90755 USA P: 562 427 2375 F: 562 426 5294 http://www.bakerprecision.com Edited October 24, 2012 by Mondo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 i thought i had loose bolts as well but i took a risk and bought the joints with teflon inserts listed in the thread above. the difference was quite marked. i have 0 suspension rattle. now, other rattles in the car are a different story. i will be getting my car back from westtexass2k by the end of next week and begin driving it around again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnK Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 (edited) Saw a post somewhere on this forum a couple of years back about replacing the standard "all thread" heim joint bolts on a WCM S2K with shoulder bolts to try to reduce the noise created by the loose fit around the threads.... Jim, Loren deserves credit for pointing this out, but I've lost track of his post. What you probably read was my contribution as an add-on to EviLRome0's bit about switching to FK 2-piece teflon lined rod ends. Got these bolts at Grainger who refers to them as Stripper Bolts. Found that I had to adjust the position of each in the chassis clevises and found arbor washers in different thickness for doing this - and these also are avail from Grainger - apparently some std industrial setup uses these. Anyway, http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=3624&highlight=heim+joints will take you to the article. and my post on the bolts is several down. The take home here is that my car has both FK rod ends fitted to the clevises with these bolts and it is dead, and I do mean dead, quiet. It's downright eery - and was well worth all the hassle and cost just for the quiet - but it does drive better. If you need details, let me know and I'll scrounge up part numbers and quantities. Also, to anyone planning on replacing their rod ends and using the FK teflon-lined units, specify "F 1 fit" when you order them. This ensures that the ball is really tight in the housing and will give you the best chance for a long life for the ends. Edited October 27, 2012 by JohnK additions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Thanks for all the input, I'll check out the links and everyones post as to what they did/learned. Going to be a busy winter but want to fit in the work on the 7 along with multiple other projects. The car has been very reliable, great fun/thrills on road and track but even after three years of use I still can't get the clatter at low speeds from bothering me!! I recently took a gear head neighbor for a ride and his comment was "HOLY S--T that was incredible but I was afraid that with all those rattles before we got to the highway that it was falling apart, I kind of expected to see the rear wheels pass us when you power shifted up the on ramp". LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueMax Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Jim, the best rod supplier in the USA is Rod End Supply, Olathe, KS. I’ve been doing business with them for years. They also can fabricate Aluminum swage rods custom built to your specifications. http://www.rodendsupply.com/index.php ask for Jim. Give Jim your specifications of what you need. It’s where all the racers shop, wholesale prices No affiliation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Jim, that's my biggest complaint too. I usually give riders ear plugs and say it's for the wind noise;) I've sprayed some motorcycle chain wax (dry stuff) on the joints and it's good for about 100-150 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 About half of my suspension mounting points are Heim joints. I installed seals on each side of the joints, and I'm now at 24,000 miles on the same joints!!!! and no squeaks and still tight. Every 10,000 miles I clean and re-lub with EP grease. I guess I will replace the joints at 30,000 just because I feel guilty. The best thing since sliced bread. If you are going with Heim joints http://www.sealsit.com is the way to go. Dave W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 Took a look at the seals, could install as an add while replacing the bolts. Are they flexible enough to take the changes in angle when the suspension moves without binding or opening up to allow dirt/moiusture in? Since you have that much milage on them they must work pretty well. I can not find measurable wear in the heim joints themselves when I take them off the car, still super tight, but I can get slight movement on the threaded bolts in the heim joint center sleeve. Mondo, I've been using a dry silicone lube called "SailCoat" left over from my sailing days that helps with "squeeks" but not with rattles, will give your product a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Jim I have high angle Heim joints on the steering arms, along with stripper bolts and the seals on both side of the joint, which is probably worst case for angularity and no issues. Dave W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Jim, You'll probably getting the same results with your lube.. squeaks but not so much rattles. But I have some other rattles too, my hood touches the top front corner of the motor which adds to some vibration rattles. My front hood hinges are riveted to the inside of hood, moving the hinge to the bottom/outside will raise my hood the thickness of the fiberglass (approx. 1/4in) and hopefully solve that. I'm hoping the joints & hood are 80-90 percent of my rattles. You can hear everything with these cars, disc braking, motor noises and with speed the wind takes over. Guess it's not the noises you know, it's the ones you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavinceCode10 Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) As I keep in mind all those are on 1/2 inches size screws, so to get a neck attach to fit you have to go with the duration of secure to the duration of the heim + the an eye. There are not a lot of measures available in a 1/2 inches neck secure, and they have a 3/8 nut on them. . . . Buzz App | Buzz Apps | Twilio Services | SMS Marketing | Wordpress SMS Plugin | SMS Plugin | WP SMS Plugin | Privacy Pro | Wifi Based App | Privacy Pro App Edited October 7, 2016 by DavinceCode10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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