Surfmonkey Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I am rebuilding my WCM suspension and would like some feedback from all Ultralite owners. Do you use your WCM for Street or Race ? What is the % difference of the two? FRONT Suspension: What is the make of your front shock? How many external adjustments? In inches what is the length at full extension of your front shock? In inches what is the length at full compression of your front shock? What is the make of the front spring? What is the front full spring height? What is the outside diameter OD of your front spring? What is the inner diameter ID of your front spring? What is the lbs per front spring? REAR Suspension: What is the make of your rear shock? How many external adjustments? In inches what is the length at full extension of your rear shock? In inches what is the length at full compression of your rear shock? What is the make of the rear spring? What is the rear spring length? What is the outside diameter OD of your spring? What is the inner diameter ID of your spring? What is the lbs per rear spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnK Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 (edited) I'd recommend finding the Koni catalog on line. They have a worksheet for ordering shocks and organize the data you need to specify such nicely. My front suspension is relatively stock, but "stock" is a relative term when it comes to S2Ks. My rear suspension is completely different. One thing I would recommend doing very carefully is measuring the range of motion that your links allow and then making sure that the shock you use keeps within that limit. The shock max length should keep the links from running into the chassis on droop, and the shock min length should do so, conversly, for bump. I happen to know that Koni advises that you use their shock to limit bump stroke/bottoming, and they also supply Silasto bump rubbers to cushion that bottoming. These come in a range and can be used to tune the suspension's behaviour. The shocks that originally came with my "kit" were QA-1 and they recommended AGAINST using the shock as a limiting device. Once you accomplsh the above, THEN you can start worrying about ride height and compliance and how the thing actually handles. Be assured, suspension tuning in a black art - and an occasional rooster sacrificed over the hood of the car at the dark of the moon is probably a reasonable safeguard if you have a local shaman around you can count on to keep the spell focused on the problem. Landrum supplies springs that are reasonably priced and in ranges that are suitable for an S2K. Just to be completely clear "There is no configuration or formula or practice that will deliver a correct suspension setup - if there is such a thing." The bright side is that the time you spend dialing in what you feel is a good setup can be a lot of fun as well as a very interesting challenge - 'specially when your neighbours become accustomed to the fact that, just because they find you coming towards them in the middle of a local corner really sideways, you're not out of control. Good luck. Edited January 3, 2014 by JohnK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestTexasS2K Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 I like Advanced Racing Suspensions shocks absorbers. The stock QA1 can be tuned by rebuilding and changing the valving, this is a bit of a pain, but are affordable starting point. There is a long discussion on here about the rod end upgrades to a teflon coated rod ends. This will cure a lot of the clunking and squeaks in the suspension. Spring rates can vary greatly depending on your intended use. I like to run a heavy front spring 550lbs and 275 - 300 on the rear. Suspension set up is a very personal preference with uses and driving style and car set up can vary greatly from car to car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 i have advanced racing suspension shocks on my car. they are adjustable in rebound or dampening. worth the money. they also offer fairly cheap re-valving if need be. also if you call you can reach the person who actually worked on your shocks within minutes. each shock you get also comes complete with dyno paperwork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfmonkey Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Thanks for all the feedback guys. Let me be the first to take a swing at this. My WCM is mostly used for street/canyon carving. Front Shocks: Aldan Eagles gas oil, Coil over with 5 click Rebound Adjustment. http://www.aldaneagle.com/products/ Currently set at a mild 1 click. The front springs are Blue Hypercoil 3"OD 2.5 ID at 350 lbs., Compressed 1.5" inches to eliminate sag. Length of spring sitting on work bench is 7". Fully compressed shock is 9.5" eye to eye. Fully extended eye to eye is 12.25" Rear Shocks: Aldan Eagles gas oil, Coil over with Rebound Adjustment 5 clicks. Currently set at a mild 2 click. The rear springs are Blue Hyper coil 3" OD 2.5 ID at 150 lbs., Compressed two inches to eliminate sag. Length of spring sitting on work bench is 8". Fully compressed eye to eye is 10.5" Fully extended eye to eye is 13.5". The car is lightly sprung to minimize the possibility of any frame bending while being able to handle most compression bumps and cornering loads. The car was set up by the builder of WCM's Brian Anderson. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I put 450lbs front & 250lbs in the rear, with the QA1s that came with the car. It's a big improvement over my original 350lb all around. I find it very comfortable for the street, mountains. So comfortable that I will likely move up to Loren's recommendations when the time comes for new shocks (poor car is kind of in mothballs right now due to other priorities). I'm sure the shock valving would make a big difference too. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfmonkey Posted January 7, 2014 Author Share Posted January 7, 2014 Mondo tell me what the compression length eye 2 eye and extension length e2e of the front and rear QA1s shocks you have on your car? Spring diameter and length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 o man, i had those aldan shocks. i removed them because they were terrible... if your interested in the ARS system let me know and ill give you my info. they should be able to make a setup using my measurements that they already have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx7locost Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 A lot of guys that build Locosts use GAZ shocks. I'm pretty happy with mine. Dennis Brunton (of Stalker fame) is the USA importer. He has a calculator at : http://coilovershock.com/suspension_worksheet.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) Surfmonkey, I got my springs here (8in): http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/springs/1-875-in-i-d-coil-springs.html I'm not able to get you the length/compression of shocks... maybe Loren (WestTexas) knows what normally came with the cars. Sorry You might want to go with different shocks, or get adapters for larger spring diameter. Not as many options in 1 7/8" size. Plus mine aren't adjustable (though I'd probably screw it up given that option) . Edited January 8, 2014 by Mondo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestTexasS2K Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Im not sure what size the Aladan shocks were. The QA1 units were 1 7/8 " They had a 3" stroke. I used 2' springs on the QA1 because I couldn't get the spring rate I wanted for the front in the 1 7/8 size. You can measure your own shock eye to eye length. It can very depending on the ride height of the car. Set your ride height and then measure the mounting point length. I try to get the shock about mid stroke at ride height. I really have been pleased with ARS shocks way better than the Aladan or QA1 in ride quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfmonkey Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 Okay, no problemo on this side going with with new shocks und springs. Send me links, sizes and lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfmonkey Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 I search ARS and hit a Facebook page? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfmonkey Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 WTS2k - I believe that you were the one who bought out WCM? If so I need two front fenders, two rear fenders plus all associated nuts, bolts und front hangers. On suspension. I would like to find some units that work. The Aldan Eagles are fine but the rears still bottoms out. Having such a light frame I do not want to go overboard and bend the frame. Also I have 5 cyberdyne digital gauges that I would like to replace. Got any suggestions? I have WCM #1 and I have taken it down to the frame and have built it back up over the last few weeks. Just got it CALIFORNIA registered today as a 1966 Lotus Super 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestTexasS2K Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Here is a start. http://store.resuspension.com/home.php?cat=361 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfmonkey Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Thank you.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 so i check my springs, the hyperco i have are 220lb in the rear. i cant find a tag for the fronts and can i find a receipt for them. for some reason i think they are 250... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunshipDriver Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 This is what I just measured tonight: Front Shocks: Koni single adjustable The front springs are 3"OD 2.5 ID at 550 lbs., Length of spring sitting on work bench is greater than 6.5" (that is what I measured with it in the coilover at full extension). Shock compressed under body weight is 11.75" eye to eye. Fully extended eye to eye is 12" Rear Shocks: Koni single adjustable The rear springs are 3" OD 2.5 ID at 350 lbs., Length of spring sitting on work bench is 8". Shock compressed under weight of the body is 13" Fully extended eye to eye is 15". Still waiting on my plates to arrive so I can give it a thorough evaluation... at the present I am leaning towards going about 100-150 lb softer front and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderbrake Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 I replaced my Aldans that came with the kit with Qa1"s. Shocks are QA1 PN 8253, with CK8201 Coil over Kit Front springs are QA1 PN 8SM400 400# 1 7/8 ID X 8" free length Rear Springs are QA1 PN 8S300 300# You can check the QA1 website for the specs. These have worked well for me, good on the street, and within my driving ability on the track. If I was doing it over, I would use whatever WTS2K said to use. I also doubt that you can bend an Ultralite frame on a bump. I have bent some shock support bolts, and I modified that mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunshipDriver Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Just reshuffled (literally) my suspension set up and am definitely happier now than I was before. Replaced my rear Hypercoil 2.25"ID, 8" long, 350# springs with Eibach 2.25"ID, 8" long, 225# springs... much better for what I'm looking for as a canyon carver and part time track vehicle. Even with 550# fronts it wasn't too bad, but definitely a bit stiff up front and I wondered about getting some 450#s to replace them. Then on a whim when removing the front Koni coilovers I decided to swap out the 2.25"ID, 7", 550# Hypercoils for my old rears, the 2.25"ID, 8", 350# Hypercoils. Swapped everything over and it ran great and the front end felt a lot more planted afterwards. That said, I ended up bottoming out on a canyon run while test driving the set-up. Found out later it was a longitudinal blister in the pavement that runs down the center of the lane that did it. Did a quick check of my 6 o'clock and saw no fluid dripping from the car. Pulled over at the gated entrance to one of the many ranch/mansion homes in the area and it all looked fine underneath. Got home, added about 1" of preload in front on each coilover and drove it again. Definitely much stiffer up front but not overly harsh. I might take a few turns out later at some point in the future and/or purchase new springs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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