running hot this year

[twobone]

Last fall I changed my coolant. This year I've noticed I'm running a lot hotter.

 

Its an xflow with a dry sump

 

Anytime I'm not moving for more than 20-30 seconds the water temp starts to runs up to ~95-105 degrees.

 

Once under way the temp drops to the middle of the guage (~85-90 degrees)

 

The fan only comes in at high temps

 

I will check again for air locks.

 

Could my water pump be on the way out? How would I know?

 

Should I change my rad cap to a lower temp?

 

With the massive dry sump I don't worry about oil temp, but water temp scares me

 

Any advice?

[xcarguy]

Last fall I changed my coolant. This year I've noticed I'm running a lot hotter.

 

Its an xflow with a dry sump

 

Anytime I'm not moving for more than 20-30 seconds the water temp starts to runs up to ~95-105 degrees.

 

Once under way the temp drops to the middle of the guage (~85-90 degrees)

 

The fan only comes in at high temps

 

I will check again for air locks.

 

Could my water pump be on the way out? How would I know?

 

Should I change my rad cap to a lower temp?

 

With the massive dry sump I don't worry about oil temp, but water temp scares me

 

Any advice?

 

twobone,

 

The first thing that comes to mind is air pockets in the system. Also, did you go back with the same mixture (all water, 50/50, etc.) or did you change it a bit?

[twobone]

I have a feeling that the mechanic put in 100% anti-freeze. I don't recall seeing him add water. Perhaps I will drain off some coolant and add water and see if the situation improves

[jlumba81]

Check your locals shops if they have a "coolant vacuum kit". First you drain all the coolant, then suck it down to 0 psi then open the valve and it refills the system. Also called a "airlift coolant refill".

 

PS for anyone who's interested. Here's an amazon link if you want to get one. You need to hook it up to an air compressor.

Edited June 24, 2014 by jlumba81
added link

[Jackal]

Dependent on the layout of your car, jacking it up one way or another with the coolant cap open may get rid of the air pockets.

[scannon]

Burp it a few times to get any air out of the system. Run it until fully warmed up, let it sit until cold and check the level in the radiator. Top up as necessary, repeat until no more coolant is required. If you have an overflow tank that is designed to pull the coolant back into the engine as it cools off, make sure you keep the level at least at the minimum when cold to keep it from drawing air back in as it cools.

 

100% antifreeze has less heat transfer capacity than a mix. I find 20% antifreeze is about right at least for the warm seasons.

[coffee break]

Before draining any coolant, test the % with a squeeze bulb antifreeze tester. Most good parts stores have them.

[twobone]

I learned something new today! I thought the overflow tank was there just to take excess coolant that overflows. I didn't think about the fact that the sealed system might suck back in the coolant that may have overflowed.

 

Its great to have such a helpful group. I will get a tester as well. Another reason to go to the autoparts store!

 

Thanks

[scannon]

Since you thought you saw the mechanic putting in straight antifreeze it occurred to me that he may have purchased the premix version which is already a 50/50 mix.

[jlumba81]

If the mechanic flushed the system with water, they tend to add straight antifreeze since it'll mix with the water still in the engine block.

[Kitcat]

I had that problem 1st time I changed coolant on my X-flow. Turned out that my heater system was not getting filled if the car was level. So I parked it on a modest incline, nose up, and added more coolant. Quite a bit more, then ran it w/radiator cap off and heater on, added yet more and all was well.

Edited June 25, 2014 by Kitcat