NVP66S Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Different car and different design, but I deviated from the plans and used Rivnuts and screws to hold the tunnel top. Just in case I need access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) Well I was starting on the front suspension and did not get far. I have 3 different size washers in my Front A-Arms Bag. They have different ID, OD, and thicknesses. There is no mention of this in the video. I don't know if they are intended for different places, or just a mix of hardware store grabs all mixed up and supposed to be one size. These are being used for spacers and stuff, so where you use them might matter...?? Edited August 26, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Looks like I got some mixed fasteners from different bags on accident. Scott offered to send me some more, but Fastenal is going to bring me some over today so I can keep working tonight. If anyone cares the part number is: 33815 or 1133815 from Fastenal Fastenal will beat McMaster prices if you just ask...or they do for me anyway. The correct ones are the ones on the right in the pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Front suspension is coming together smooth. I don't have any shocks yet, so moving to the rack and tie rods next. I went ahead and pressed in the bushings on the rear rockers while I was doing the fronts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Jevs, are you doing the 12.75" rotors on both front & rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 Jevs, are you doing the 12.75" rotors on both front & rear? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Finally got to work on the car a bit tonight. Got some more stuff done in the rear and made some plates to seal the ABS sensor holes. I used a little sealer also just to make sure no water or fine dust could get in. I did not get to work on the car this weekend, but I did order a bunch of parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Looking good! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 7" Round GE Nighthawk LED Headlights fit the Speedway stainless steel buckets good. The light is nice and white. They seem to be very bright. This will make my car have 100% LED lighting (except I am not sure what Speedhut puts in their gauges yet). Pictures are off angle otherwise it blinds you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGTorque Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Yes i would advise against going with the same rotor size front and rear. most wcm ultralites have this setup and find it hard to regulate the brakes even with a bias bar and hydraulic valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Not my design, this is the way it is made. If I have any issues when I am done, I can work from there to correct it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Not much done this weekend due to other obligations. I got my oil pan on. I had to ensure it was flush with the engine since I don't have a transmission mounted. I got a huge bunch of parts including the seats over the past couple weeks. I really like the Kirkey's now that I sat in them and see them. I like the Airknit as opposed to the tweed or vinyl. These things won't wrinkle or look cheap or anything. The covers are made pretty nice and go on easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) Installed the CBM Motorsports -16AN thermostat housing and top fitting. The recommended fitting for the water pump is a Summit weld in bung. I did not want to weld the water pump if I did not have to. I was told they tried these press in fittings before and it split the water pump. However, there are two different sizes. I spoke with CBM about this and mentioned the difficulties I was told about. They told me to use the CBM-10620 For the new LS3 I have. I figured worse case scenario, you can still weld this one in as well. Once I got the old fitting out, I measured the hole and the fitting with my calipers and found the fitting to be just about right for a light press fitting. It went in very well just using a small dead blow hammer without excessive force. Here is the methods I used if anyone wants to know. Remove the old fitting: I used a crappy slide hammer and attached a socket that just fit into the pipe. I then clamped the socket inside the pipe with vice grips. The slide hammer did nothing but pull the socket out of the pipe. My second attempt was to just pull on the slide hammer while smacking the vice grips. I kind of pulled the slide hammer in the opposite direction of the hitting so It would come out straighter. This worked like a charm. Install the new fitting: I put the fitting in the thick plastic bag it came in and then wrapped some tape around the threads to hold it on. Then I used an X-acto knife to trim the plastic with enough skirt to cover the face. This protects the threads and face when your installing it. I then coated the fitting with a light coat of sealant, making sure none gets on the lip. This also acts as a lubricant to install the fitting. Only put it on the fitting and not the water pump, that way the excess gets squeezed to the outside and no excess is on the inside. Next I used a 35mm socket and whacked it in with the dead blow hammer. Wipe off any excess sealant (not much to wipe off if you apply a light coat). I was dreading pulling the pump to press the fitting in or weld on a bung, but this worked well with no issues and no removal of the pump. Edited September 16, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 In the second picture from the top, what is the vice grip clamped to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 The vice grip is clamped to the original hose fitting tube. The socket is inside it to keep the vice grips from crushing the tube and get a good clamp on it so you can beat it out (by hitting the vice grips). The slide hammer is just a first attempt that did not work, but it provides a good way for you to pull while hitting the vice grips and help guide the fitting out since your beating the vice grip at a little bit of an angle. However, you can probably have just about as good luck without anything pulling. Just stick something in the tube so the vice grips don't crush it, then beat the fitting out. Being able to pull at the same time just helps it along a little. It comes out pretty easy once it starts. The whole job was easier than I was expecting. I was prepared to pull the water pump if need be to press in the fitting and then if that failed I was prepared to weld it. Luckily none of that was necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toedrag Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Got it. Thx for sharing! Noted for future reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 jevs, Good info on the water pump mods, and I really do like those seats. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) LED lights for the front turn signals (dual "filament"). I got my Speedhut order. Installed the rear diff vent, this is the newer part number 19132947, I have to have this even if I need to hook a hose on later. I figure I will try this first and see how it goes. Notched and dimpled all the steering shaft. Edited September 29, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Steering all done except for the steering wheel. I need to get the seat and pedals in place so I know where I want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevs Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) Trailer hitch fabricated and welded up. I used Curt part number 49506 for the receiver tube. The removable part is: 3594 Draw-Tite Sportframe Drawbar 4" Rise 2000# Kit I am waiting for the safety chain loop: 4234 Tow Ready (Cequent) Safety Chain Loop, Class I, 2,000 lbs. 5.625" L x 2.25" W x 0.25" H Edited September 29, 2014 by jevs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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