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Brunton StalkerXL #23 Build


jevs
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Land Rover Defender Rear Stop & Tail Light Units With Stainless Steel Screws (up to 1994 models)

 

LED lamps for tail lights 1157 Red Tail/Stop Light 64 SMD LED

The Signal Dynamics Penstar unit will also use these for turn signals

 

First Inertia Switch, Electric Fuel Pump cutoff & Connector w/ 30cm cable. This will kill the fuel pump if there is an accident.

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Transmission and parts arrived. I now have the entire drivetrain except the rear axles.

I also got the spacers recommended in the #22 build for my wildwood pedals. I guess I will start mounting those next.

 

Wow, are saying you waited a month or more for the Magnum to show up?

 

What other parts are required, other than the connector & pigtail you show and the shifter relocate?

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Those are the only parts you get from the transmission guys. However, I was supposed to get bellhousing to motor bolts and bellhousing to trans bolts. They were not in there. I asked for these, but they didnt come. I have the GM numbers if necessary.

Scott said my aluminum shocks finally came, so I should be getting a pallet of parts soon from Brunton. This will give me all but little unforseen things to finish the car. Oh and my wheels, those are backordered until next month.

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Longer than that. I ordered it July 30th shortly after I got the car. It showed up monday at work (have docks). I just got it home tonight

 

Oh Wow. I wasn't expecting any ridiculous lead times like that. I suppose if mine takes that long, I could put the engine in w/o the trans so that I can keep working.

 

Those are the only parts you get from the transmission guys. However, I was supposed to get bellhousing to motor bolts and bellhousing to trans bolts. They were not in there. I asked for these, but they didnt come. I have the GM numbers if necessary.

Scott said my aluminum shocks finally came, so I should be getting a pallet of parts soon from Brunton. This will give me all but little unforseen things to finish the car. Oh and my wheels, those are backordered until next month.

 

Okay good. I ordered the bellhousing and sourced the bolts from McMaster.

 

Glad to hear about your shocks & other items that will be on the way soon.

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Installed the CBM Motorsports -16AN thermostat housing and top fitting.

 

The recommended fitting for the water pump is a Summit weld in bung. I did not want to weld the water pump if I did not have to. I was told they tried these press in fittings before and it split the water pump. However, there are two different sizes. I spoke with CBM about this and mentioned the difficulties I was told about. They told me to use the CBM-10620 For the new LS3 I have. I figured worse case scenario, you can still weld this one in as well.

 

Once I got the old fitting out, I measured the hole and the fitting with my calipers and found the fitting to be just about right for a light press fitting. It went in very well just using a small dead blow hammer without excessive force.

 

Do you happen to remember what your measurements were for the CBM-10620 and the water pump hole? I tried fitting mine today and the 10620 was too small and slid right it w/o any pressing/hammering. When I measured the base of the 10620, it was 1.292" vs the stock barbed piece I removed was more like 1.298". CBM's ebay ad had mentioned that the base should be 1.299", so I'm checking with CBM to see if I have the wrong part or a bad part.

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I cannot remember. The CBM part was a few thousanths larger than the hole. It was a light press fit. If you ordered off the site instead of by phone you might have got the wrong one. There was a part number issue on the site. Did it show that you ordered the part number I got on your invoice? I remember the guy on the phone pesonally made sure I got that part number instead of what was being called out by the same size selection on the site.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know I have not shown much progress lately, but behind the scenes I have been busy gathering parts for this project and another one I am doing. I now have everything but wheels that I know of to build the car completely. I also finished a bunch of house projects and some mods to my drill press. I am sure some stuff will still come up. But I am ready to start moving again I think.

 

I finally got a scuttle! Now I can go back to building in sequence. I also got the rest of what I think is the last of my parts from Brunton.

 

Pics of the radiator and gas tank. I need to check my inventory of fittings and see if I have everything to hook up this double radiator.

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Both the fuel tank and radiator look different for the XL. What is the tank capacity?

 

Do yourself a favor and carefully inspect the headers. I had multiple pin holes on the factory welds near the collectors (not Brunton's fault). I had a lot of flash rust. I had them blasted and painted, and the rust is already creeping back in the crevices. I think a chemical dip would be more ideal.

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My tank is 36" x 12" x 8" (not incl the sump at the bottom), which is 15 Gallons. Yours, jevs, looks like it should be a little more than that since the back wall looks more like 13-14" tall. I'd estimate yours is probably 15 3/4 or 16 Gallons.

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Not sure what the capacity is. It should be bigger. I asked that the top be angled so it was flat when installed. Made no sense to me that it was angled before. Wasted space.

 

That may have been the ullage volume. Fuel tanks (especially more modern designs with evaporative emissions controls) are designed so that temperature changes do not force liquid out the vent or into the charcoal canister.

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I don't think that was the intention. I believe it was just because the tank was made as a simpler rectangular shape. You can ask Brunton, but I believe they were already thinking of doing this when I asked for it. The filler is also flat instead of being on an angle towards the cockpit of the car. Most fuel cells out there have no evap stuff on them or an air chamber for expansion. They just push it out if needed with a check ball if you flip (this tank does have the check ball).

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