Brunton StalkerXL #23 Build

[jevs]

Fabricated and welded on the lower hood prop brackets.

I used 1-1/4" 1/8" angle to make them.

Aligning them was quite time consuming. They need to be perpendicular to the front tube, but none of the tubes on the right side are perpendicular and only the inside lower tube is on the left side. So, I just measured off the front and precisely clamped a level in place that I could measure and square off of.

I will get some nicer looking hardware. Socket button head most likely. I am not sure if the prop will be mounted to the inside or outside yet. I have to see how things work on the hood.

The hood ones will be a little more challenging.

Edited January 22, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Finished the hood mounting brackets yesterday. This stuff is time consuming to get just the right angles etc.

In case anyone wants to do something like this. The top mount is also 1-1/4" 1/8" thick angle iron. A bit thinner could be used, but this is what I had. I chose steel because I can weld it. Bending something out of aluminum would be really hard to get right.

I chose to use the hood clamp bolts to hold this. It also adds reinforcement behind the hood latch. However. you could drill holes in it and then fiberglass it to the inside if you needed to.

I made them 3" long. You could go a little shorter, since there is really not too much stress on this point.

I took 1/8" off the bottom of the angle iron so it would fit within the body line better.

The mounting tabs are 1-1/4 wide x 1-1/8" tall. This makes it 1-1/4 x 1-1/4 once you weld it to the top of the angle iron. Mount the angle bracket to the hood before trimming the top. With the hood closed, position the hood props where you want them with the bottom bolt snug. Attach the mounting tab to the prop and let it rest on the top of the angle iron where it wants to be. Make sure the hood props are perfectly straight and not bent for this step. Then just tack the mounting tab to the angle bracket. This is the easiest way to get the right angle. Then I removed it and rounded it up and ground the excess off the top part of the angle.

 

Now that it is done. I will have to buy the right hardware. This is just temporary 1/4-20 stuff. I will use proper length stainless socket button heads and nylock nuts so I can set just the right amount of tension, be the correct length, and look better.

Edited January 25, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

I chose to actually push the backs of the brackets up when closed instead of level with the frame rail like I was thinking before. This makes it even less likely that they would get in the way of anything. No loss of opening distance either.

One thing that I knew existed before is very evident now. The lower front of the fiberglass where the hinges mount is not really symmetrical. This causes the hood to pull to one side when open. When it is closed, it just kind of flexes a little and the hinges can move independent, so it is no big deal. However it bugs me when open because it wants to lean to one side.

I will be using the heat gun to try and rectify this.

These super light aluminum hinges are tough, but the sides can flex very easy. They are rock solid up and down. They will let the hood sway when open, but they will not let it close no matter what you do. I did make all my mounts beefy because I can always make new steel props to take out side to side movement if I want later. However, I think it is fine as is and looks better and saves weight.

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but I left plenty of gap between the props and the hood when closed. This way nothing can ever vibrate against anything and make annoying noises

By the way, that blue tape you see is just holding my rubber strips temporarily so everything is where it needs to be so things fit right on final assembly. The only contact points with the rubber will be at the aluminum pieces. The hood rides above the steel rails everywhere else. This will save the paint/powder coat from rubbing off and gives a nice even gap. I also did this so that there would be a proper space if I should ever want to add side panels in the front. They will fit right in between the hood and rail with no mods and allow the use of the rubber seal along the whole length. This is why I also put the aluminum piece under the front hood latches. If I ever make side panels, the clamps would still be right where they are now. The side panel would just replace the piece of aluminum in there.

Edited January 25, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Performed a few heat/cool sessions with the heat gun on the hinge area of the front and now the hood opens straight up and down.

[jevs]

Made some hidden mounting tabs for the dash panel. This way it will be secure and nothing is visible from the front. You have to remove the scuttle to take the dash out no matter what, so it did not make sense having bolts through the front. I also don't like the method in the instructions of using double face tape to hold it. That does not sound like fun to remove and you also have to account for the amount it would space the dash panel out early on.

 

I used some 10-32 aluminum rivet nuts in the lower frame tube. I had to make a short drill bit to use with my angle drill. There is not much room between the upper and lower frame tubes and the holes need to be drilled straight.

 

I recommend the Drill Doctor 750X. It works good for sharpening bits, and reshaping if you need to cut a bit to make a short one.

 

I made the tabs out of some scraps I trimmed off the dash panel earlier.

Edited February 2, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

A couple more pictures of the dash panel mounting tabs. I did a little sanding to clean them up a little bit so the washers would sit nicely and also clean up what ran between the tube and the panel. I taped this area so it was easy to remove. You can just grind until the tape is gone around the edges then the rest that is stuck to the tape just peels off.

 

I also made some plates with 1/4-20 studs. I fiberglassed these to the bottom of the scuttle. These will be used for mounting the scuttle on the dash side. It was too floppy to be left floating. The way I will finish these will also allow me to fine tune the height across the top. As it is, it is not very straight If you let it go where it wants.

Edited February 2, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Finished the modifications for mounting the scuttle panel.

I made the tabs 1-1/2" x 1". I started with a tight fit 1/4" hole so they would be placed as accurately as possible. I then put a nylock nut on each stud upside down. This way once they are adjusted, the scuttle will go on the same way every time since they won't spin or move. I made the tabs and then mounted them on the studs and tack welded them. Then I pulled everything off and welded them permanent.

 

The studs were trimmed to leave a little room for adjustment and to fit nylock nuts on the bottom at final assembly.

 

Once everything was done, I went one size up and drilled the holes out again. This lets the scuttle slide on very easily, even with the aluminum firewall panel still attached to it.

 

It is very solid now. Feels like it should with no visible fasteners for the dash or scuttle when the hood is closed. I can fine tune the height a little bit across it by adjusting the upper nylock nuts

Edited February 3, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Finally back to doing stuff that looks like progress.

Started installing the brakes.

The machinist forgot to tap the holes for my caliper bracket on one of the rear spindles. The drilled hole was the right size to tap, so no big deal to fix.

I got everything installed in the rear except I need to finish the lines. Every one that I have seen runs the hard line up and over the differential. I think I am going to stay under it. The other way you cannot remove the diff without disconnecting brake lines.

I am just trying to decide if I should add a plate to protect the line in case rocks pop up or a spin off the track etc. I might never track it, but might as well prepare for it. The round T fitting will bolt to this same piece. I am not sure if I will use angle or just a 1" or 1-1/8" wide 1/8" thick piece. This will further beef up the piece that has the hitch on it as well (not that it is needed).

I have the same issue as toedrag with the drive shaft bolts. The head hits on two of the three. I will probably just cut some length off. However, I may get some a bit longer so the non threaded part is longer so more goes into the diff flange, then cut those down. I have to see what is available.

There was some thought on a differential parking brake also. This could be tricky because there is not much room. I am still thinking about this one. I think they work better and save weight if you can make one fit....if not, I will skip it or do something like toedrag did. I can pass inspection without it from what I have read. I just like to have one.

Edited February 9, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Front brake system is done. I did have to buy some different bolts for the front and rear caliper stuff. I did not get the optimal lengths or enough for some of them.

There was one adel clamp added where the braided line goes under the steering. Those holders that go into the tabs on the frame still let the hose slide through them. I did not want to risk that it could slide out and somehow contact the steering joint hardware. You can see the cleco there in the picture, but the steering shaft is blocking the line clamp.

I also had to buy longer bolts for the tie rod to steering rack. The threads were not quite engaging the nylon in the nylock nuts.

I am going to have a lot of left over nuts and bolts for the next project

The goal up by the brake booster is to keep the lines clear of the steering enough that I can make and fit a cover there still at some point.

I am not sure if I want to put the proportioning valve in the center console. I wasted a bunch of time today thinking about stuff. Without sitting in one or driving it, I don't know if it will hit my arm.

Edited February 9, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Just thought I would throw out a couple tool recommendations.

This is an awesome flaring tool. It does about everything to a tube end. Very easy to use.

Mastercool 71475 Universal Hydraulic flaring tool.

Add the 71098 37º Flaring and Double Flaring adapter set so you can do all your AN tubes as well.

That is about the ultimate combo I have found. It is a bit spendy, but you should never need another flaring tool for any future projects. If your only building/repairing one car ever, then maybe not, but if this is your hobby or job, I highly recommend it.

 

For a double flare you just load your tube into the die with the end flush to the end of the die. Then you press the male nipple tool in and it makes that bubble looking end. Then you just put the 45º cone in and press that down and your done.

This will also do fuel line quick disconnect ends and metric lines, etc.

 

I have some tubing benders that work well, but they only truly went down to 1/4" size and your supposed to use the 1/4" for 3/16" tubing. I decided I wanted a true dedicated 3/16" bender and did a bunch of searching. In my opinion (and others), this is the best 3/16" tubing bender for tight radius bends. You won't find one that bends smoother or smaller.

Imperial 364-FH-03 MADE IN USA! You can find it for under $40 on the net. I bought it at opentip.com

Edited February 17, 2015 by jevs

[jevs]

Finally finished the brakes. I still have to decide on adding parking brakes. I did rule out a brake on the diff/driveshaft. It is not feasibly for any savings of weight or simplicity for various reasons. The only beneficial way to do it is at the rear rotors.

 

I had to order a plug for the extra master cylinder hole. I found a nice stainless steel one for under $2 from belmetric.com. Part number DP10X1.00AHSS. I did order some 10mm copper crush washers, but I found the ID was larger than I liked. I ended up using a standard size that fit tighter from my assortment.

 

I also ordered some metric flanged nylock nuts and some different bolts for the driveshaft as well as some more brake line and other stuff from belmetric. They were reasonable and the shipping was around $7.50. They shipped quickly.

 

I also replaced that 90º banjo fitting on the side of the master cylinder with a fitting with a coned end that accepts the standard size brake line fitting. I just happened to have one of these, so I don't have a part number handy. You will have to either use that banjo fitting, or get the coned end (AN??) fitting. This port does not have the inverted cone inside for a flared tube to work.

 

I chose to route the rear brake line much different from Brunton. This was more work though. However, it allows you to remove the rear end without removing any brake lines and also moves them where it is not likely to damage them if you let the rear end rest or hit the frame tubes when your snaking it out.

 

I made a 14 gauge plate and welded it in to protect the lines since they were now on front of the frame tube. This way if you spin off track or bump something on the road etc, it will not likely damage the lines. I drilled and chamfered some 1/2" holes to allow road debris and liquid to escape easier. Saves a tiny bit of weight also I suppose.

 

I mounted the rear bias valve up front since I don't expect to adjust it while driving. This way I won't have to have that extra hole in the center console. I know some people have said that even with the bias on there, the rear brakes may be too strong, so this leaves me some area up there to make some mods or changes to reduce the rear brakes further if needed. I don't have the kit supplied throttle contraption up there, so it leaves me lots of room in that area.

 

I think I used more adel clamps than Brunton shows, but I like to have one about every 12" and/or near bends where it could vibrate against the frame. I tend to like the lines hugging the frame just for a little more protection from accidentally banging them with something. I used 1/4" ones on the flexible lines and they fit very nicely.

Edited February 17, 2015 by jevs

[HOTTTCAR]

The Mastercool flaring tool is great! It works great for making male OEM quick disconnect fuel lines.

Your project is really looking good John.

Gale

[jevs]

The Mastercool flaring tool is great! It works great for making male OEM quick disconnect fuel lines.

Your project is really looking good John.

Gale

 

Thanks. I actually thought when I got this last summer that being done by spring was feasible. I think I was wrong I am fabricating a lot more than I thought I would need to. I underestimated the build time of such a basic car. It is always good when you get to start on something different though. I decided to stay up late last night to finish the brakes and get the garage cleaned up again to start on something fresh.

[jevs]

I lowered the car down to jack stands so I could start adding some weight.

Differential and axles installed. Straight forward other than I had to mostly remove the spindle to get it out far enough to go on the axle. Just taking the top joint off would not let it tilt away enough. I did take the circlips off the diff side. Even well greased, the axles do take a little force to pull through the splined hub. Tightening the nut sucks them in easily. They are not going to just slide out when it comes time to remove them though. They do have a big indent in the end, so I think an air chisel with a dull point would bang them out when the time comes.

[toedrag]

Looks great! I know you must be happy to finally be doing some easy bolt-in work

[xcarguy]

jevs, the car is looking great. And I must admit, you and toedrag are giving me the ‘build’ itch, but I'm diligently exercising restraint. :cheers:

[DeanG]

Consider using a line lock for the "parking" brake. Assuming that you only want one to get through inspection it could be the lightest method.

 

I first came across this on a fire truck. Get to the fire, stamp on the brakes, set the line lock. The wheel chalks could be added later for an added measure of safety.

[subtlez28]

I had a line lock set up on a rusty old truck back in the day. The prior owner installed it when the parking pain failed. It would lose pressure when it sat. Not ideal in a parking lot that is not level, and you are inside the mall...

 

As far as inspection goes, I would think they care more about a secondary way to make the car stop (should the brake hydraulics fail), not keep it parked.

[jevs]

Yeah, line lock is not the way to go in my opinion and it won't pass for an inspector in the know in most cases. I don't even need a parking brake to pass inspection here. I am just doing it because I like to have a real and well functioning parking brake. It will also aid in the sale later to someone that may require it to pass in their state. My goal is to have it in a reachable place as well just in case you really did need it in an emergency

With that said, I have already ordered all my parts except the cables. I will post the details when I have more time. I will be having the cables made to spec rather than using the generic ones with set screws etc. It should be a little cheaper or maybe the same price as the cut to fit ones. I will say a decent parking brake setup is not cheap...

Right now I am working on the motor/trans install & deciding on the shimming of the slave cylinder.

[jevs]

Bolted the flywheel on using the OEM bolts that came in the flex plate. A flex plate or flywheel use the same bolts on these.

I bought OEM bolts for the clutch pressure plate. Part number 12561465.

I had to bolt the bell housing to the motor in order to measure the distance to the pressure plate fingers to see what would be needed for the slave cylinder spacer.

I used aftermarket flanged bolts for this from BRP, part number 551652. These also have locking ribs on the bottom of the head.

A measurement is also needed with the slave cylinder bolted up with no spring on the throw out bearing. This is press all the way back and then you measure to the transmission face (machined bell housing mating surface).

Make sure you have a precision piece of metal to measure off of. I pulled out my mint Starret combination ruler for this. I normally use a cheap Chinese one for most of the car stuff. The Starret is hardened and very straight and the thickness is within .0005" all the way down (measuring with my Chinese calipers *snicker*).

Edited February 22, 2015 by jevs