Brunton Stalker XL #22 Build

[toedrag]

A set of adjustable reamers is one of the most useful items for "fettling" these types of cars. It's pretty easy to get them into the tight spots, and they can be very accurate if you go slowly. I've put a lot of miles on mine while working on my Westfield.

 

There ya go...Right tool for the job. Thx for sharing. I'll probably pick up one or two of these.

[jevs]

Simple enough. I can buy that receiver tube for a little over $12 and I probably have a couple pieces of square tube for the 45 degree pieces.

http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-49506-Receiver-Finish/dp/B001GN1F6S/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=10QWCZW9G44EKPNV6S1K

 

You think that is strong enough with no other reinforcements?

You planning to pull a small trailer, or use it for a carrier etc.?

Any pictures out there of a completed car with one welded on like that? Curious to see how it looks overall.

 

Thanks!

[toedrag]

Simple enough. I can buy that receiver tube for a little over $12 and I probably have a couple pieces of square tube for the 45 degree pieces.

[/url]http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-49506-Receiver-Finish/dp/B001GN1F6S/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=10QWCZW9G44EKPNV6S1K

 

You think that is strong enough with no other reinforcements?

You planning to pull a small trailer, or use it for a carrier etc.?

Any pictures out there of a completed car with one welded on like that? Curious to see how it looks overall.

 

Thanks!

 

I also forgot to mention that Scott said to then use this extension, or one like it:

http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/3/5/3594_4_500.jpg

 

I just plan to tow either a little utility trailer holding track tires or a small cargo carrier. I couldn't find a usa7s or Stalker picture for the utility trailer I plan to use for tires, but it's this one from Harbor Freight, and a picture of it in action on an Elise:

http://www.boefabrication.com/Media/Images/TowBar2.jpg

 

Here's a Stalker with custom trailer, but I'm not sure what this one's hitch looks like. I haven't found pictures of the rear of a completed car showing the hitch receiver:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=17158&g2_serialNumber=2

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=17161&g2_serialNumber=2

[jevs]

Hmm, that is a pretty long hitch. I wonder if a bike rack or one of the cargo carriers would be long enough to clear the body......will have to do a little research. I will most likely do this though. With no storage, a hitch will come in handy.

 

I kind of like the looks of the Stalker with no cage or hoops I just wouldn't feel safe I guess being in such a fast and light car.

[toedrag]

Only squeezed in about 45 mins today:

 

• Rear wheel hubs fitted.
  
• Had some spare washers and played with the rear toe rod; the driver's side needed 7 washers to have 1/8" clearance from the pushrod bolt, but again, this with all the suspension bolts loose. Not sure if that number will change once the suspension is compressed. Maybe I can find a steel spacer instead of using all those washers?
  

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27132&g2_serialNumber=3

[Dave W]

I think you should look at changing that hex head bolt to an allen socket button head, for a little more clearance. Things do flex under load. Dave W

[toedrag]

I think you should look at changing that hex head bolt to an allen socket button head, for a little more clearance. Things do flex under load. Dave W

 

Excellent idea! :hurray: I took that suggestion and just found this on McMaster, p/n 92220A273, which is a low-profile socket head cap screw w/145k psi tensile strength & C39 hardness, which is pretty close to the Grade 8's in the kit, although not cheap at $6.58 for qty 1, but I only need 2 of them:

http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20131028/92220a273l.gif

[jevs]

I probably would not use a black oxide. It does not look like they have one in that length zinc plated. Maybe someone else does though.

[toedrag]

I probably would not use a black oxide. It does not look like they have one in that length zinc plated. Maybe someone else does though.

 

Yeah, that was a disappointment...I'll keep looking for others.

[toedrag]

Bought a 'normal' size socket had cap screw at a local supply store today, and it helps a tiny bit with clearance to the toe rod. However, with the threaded end of the bolt now facing the driveshaft, I started wondering about how much clearance there would be to that. I suppose if it's a problem, I could use a half-height nylock and cut off the extra threads. And sure, I could flip the bolt around and use the half-height nylock on the toe rod side and cut off the extra threads; the reason I probably won't do that is because I think there is less room on the toe rod side vs the driveshaft side, and since the low profile bolt head is smaller than the half-height nylock, it makes sense to keep the bolt head on the toe rod side.

 

A half-height nylock seems like it should be fine in this application, and many others in the suspension system, because it's a pure shear load. I'm thinking the low profile socket head cap screw with a half-height nylock would probably work and might even allow the removal of most/all washers being used as spacers.

 

On a related note, I wonder how many people would replace all full height nuts with half-height ones when used with bolts handling shear-only loads, for weight savings...Plus, looking at the 1/2-13 configuration in Grade 8 Yellow-Zinc, the half-height ones are much cheaper ($0.44 for full height vs $0.26 for half-height on McMaster)...

[toedrag]

Did some research on the CTS-V differential venting issue, and I think I understand what's happening now.

 

The original vent p/n, 15852707, has a built-in check valve to let air out of the differential as it builds internal pressure. The ball in the check valve could sometimes stick (open or closed, not sure on that one), resulting in small eruptions of differential fluid, which people noticed as a leak on their garage floor. A TSB was subsequently released, 07-04-20-001A (refer to attachment below), where the repair called for a technician to remove the spring, ball, and outer cover from the installed vent (so that it's now just an open tube w/o any valve). Then, add a small length of tubing, and attach a new/second vent and zip tie the tubing somewhere. In other words, the original fix was to render the original vent useless and just add a second one.

 

Then, GM must have revised the vent cap because 15852707 has now been superceded by 19132947. In theory, presuming that 19132947 doesn't have the issues that 15852707 did, then there is no need to use any hose & filter/secondary vent. Meaning, as long as you buy 19132947, press it into the hole on the differential, then that should be it. That's my plan, anyways. I just ordered 19132947, and we'll see what happens.

 

TSB: TSBDiferentialVent_.pdf

 

Related thread on another forum

Edited September 3, 2014 by toedrag

[subtlez28]

If you don't mind my asking, what did 19132947 cost?

 

I called a local dealer and they wanted over $30! I cannot see that for such a basic piece. It is basically a PCV valve... They wouldn't give me the part number over the phone though.

 

I ended up epoxying (because I couldn't tap w the diff installed) in a brass barb fitting, and running a short hose to a traditional vent cap ($1.50 at the trans shop).

 

What you are saying makes sense. Maybe the new part number did eliminate the need for the hose (which I read was the TSB fix). However, I figure my diff will see more heat and abuse than the average CTS. I ran clear hose, so I will be able to see if or how much the fluid creeps up.

[toedrag]

If you don't mind my asking, what did 19132947 cost?

 

I called a local dealer and they wanted over $30! I cannot see that for such a basic piece. It is basically a PCV valve... They wouldn't give me the part number over the phone though.

 

I ended up epoxying (because I couldn't tap w the diff installed) in a brass barb fitting, and running a short hose to a traditional vent cap ($1.50 at the trans shop).

 

What you are saying makes sense. Maybe the new part number did eliminate the need for the hose (which I read was the TSB fix). However, I figure my diff will see more heat and abuse than the average CTS. I ran clear hose, so I will be able to see if or how much the fluid creeps up.

 

Found it on ebay (yeah...I know) for $14.99 w/free shipping from user 'oeparts'.

 

I like your idea, too. Good thinking with the clear hose.

[subtlez28]

Honestly, if the stealership would have asked for $14.99, they would have sold me one!

 

But, yeah, the clear hose will let me know if it (the hose) was necessary.

[toedrag]

Been taking care of some smaller jobs over the last couple of days:

 

Trying to re-form the hood shape where it meets the scuttle using some clamps & heat, both from a heat gun & the sun. Will find out later today if it worked (fingers crossed)

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27200&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Re-greased & installed the Coleman steering rack per Stalker instructions. Here's what it looks like from Coleman:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27206&g2_serialNumber=4

 

Here's after I finished with it:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27208&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Tapping the holes on the base of the brake & clutch pedals to 3/8-24

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27212&g2_serialNumber=3

[toedrag]

A few more small items, but no pictures of these.

 

 

• My low profile bolt idea for the pushrod to LCA joint was only a slight improvement. Instead of 7 washers on the toe rod, it required 5. Need to clarify with Scott/Stalker what to do here.
  
• The brake booster & master cylinder (MC) are from a Miata, years 94-00. It has 3 ports that are 10mm x 1.0 Inverted Flare female fittings. Other fittings used at the brake line Tee fittings & proportioning valve are 3/8-24, which is just a hair smaller than a 10mm x 1.0 fitting. The end result is that the hard lines, which are pre-flared, have different sizes of tube nuts to mate with either the 10mm hole at the MC or 3/8 for the tee fitting & proportioning valve. A happy accident is that I think I get to use 1 of the 3 MC ports for my brake light switch.
  
• The bottom of the booster interferes with the firewall shelf, so I had to make room in the firewall shelf for it.
  
• Started working on brake line plumbing, but had troubles. I took me 3 tries bending the front brake line b/c there is just about zero extra slack in the piece that's included with the kit, so it now looks pretty mangled, and I'll be replacing it. The rear brake hard line seemed too short, mostly because my location for the rear tee fitting is complicated by the presence of my hitch receiver.
  
• It also occurred to me that my chassis doesn't seem to have any of the mounting tabs for the braided flexible lines that run from the tee fittings to each caliper. Need to check with Scott/Stalker on this and likely add it to my "needs welding" list.
  
• I fit the Diff to make sure I had room for my new rear tee fitting location for the hard lines.
  

I'm ordering a new 25' roll of the 3/16" copper-nickel brake line tubing to re-do the hard lines.

Edited September 5, 2014 by toedrag

[jevs]

A few more small items, but no pictures of these.

 

 

• My low profile bolt idea for the pushrod to LCA joint was only a slight improvement. Instead of 7 washers on the toe rod, it required 5. Need to clarify with Scott/Stalker what to do here.
  

 

Scott told me to put in 3/4" of washers. ~3/4" made it so the nylon portion of the nut was barely going to touch the threads of the outer toe rod bolt, so I remove one more washer to get better engagement of the nylock nut on the outer toe rod bolt. You could always get a longer bolt though.

 

The nut for the lower rocker rod connection clears fine for me with this amount of washers with a bit of room to spare. I wouldn't call it adjustable though. This is a required amount of washers and I could only get away with maybe subtracting one to two more before it would be resting on the nut and you would have to have the flat of the nut parallel to the toe rod for that. You also cannot add any more washers without a longer bolt. Just by doing the math I would say I put in 6 or 7 washers, but I could go to 5 like you did I think.

 

So, my opinion is that your 5 washers is going to be mandatory without a design change.

 

I will not be spending any more time looking into this and just going with the washers. Scott did say the last couple cars he built drove great.

 

When I get things more lined up and final assembled, I will get the straight edge out and see how much the toe is changing with up down movement. I will be mostly street driving, so I don't want it too twitchy back there when hitting bumps. I will adjust or think about it more if I need to at that point.

Edited September 5, 2014 by jevs

[toedrag]

Scott told me to put in 3/4" of washers. ~3/4" made it so the nylon portion of the nut was barely going to touch the threads of the outer toe rod bolt, so I remove one more washer to get better engagement of the nylock nut on the outer toe rod bolt. You could always get a longer bolt though.

 

The nut for the lower rocker rod connection clears fine for me with this amount of washers. I wouldn't call it adjustable though. This is a required amount of washers and you could only get away with maybe subtracting one to two more before it would be resting on the nut and you would have to have the flat of the nut parallel to the toe rod for that. You also cannot add any more washers without a longer bolt.

 

So, my opinion is that about 3/4" or a little less of washers is mandatory without a design change.

 

Sounds good, thx for the info!

[toedrag]

Night time report:

 

The re-forming of the hood is headed in the right direction. It's much better than it was, but not yet good enough. Will continue to fiddle with it.

 

I could have nearly finished the steering setup tonight, but Coleman Racing decided to send me the wrong part. I ordered a 4' long shaft, but received a 5" long piece that looks like the business end of their steering rack. Plus, I'm waiting on one more U-Joint from Borgeson.

 

Steering wheel & quick release adapter. I went with a splined style vs the hex style.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27230&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Back view of the steering wheel, showing it has a 3-bolt mounting setup. Since the 3 holes are a little small for the bolts that came with the Quick Release Hub kit, I drilled the holes a tad.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27232&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Quick release hub installed onto the wheel, with the weld-on shaft adapter sitting next to it.

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27234&g2_serialNumber=3

 

Differential & Axles being test fit. And don't worry, I remembered to remove the c-clips on the end that goes into the Differential. I've got them in a ziplock taped to the differential, which hopefully means I won't forget about them later. The axles slid in nicely to both the hubs & the diff:

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=27237&g2_serialNumber=3

[subtlez28]

How difficult is it to spin your diff w the axles in? I don't remember trying without axles, but with everything in place, I was surprised how much force was needed to spin the axles by the driveshaft or vise versa.

 

I'm hoping it is just tight because it is a new unit...