Front turn signal location?

[jevs]

I am not seeing a lot of good front turn signal locations. I can no longer have them in the front headlights because I have purchased LED headlights.

 

Brunton is putting a strip of LED's under the front fender. I am not sure I like that spot. Anything flinging off the tires will hit them. Also I would rather not run any wires out to the font fenders if I can keep from it.

 

I was thinking a bullet LED under the headlights, but those are blocked from side view. The Caterhams have their lights way out front, so it works on those, but these lights are set back.

 

Looking for ideas.

[toedrag]

I am not seeing a lot of good front turn signal locations. I can no longer have them in the front headlights because I have purchased LED headlights.

 

Brunton is putting a strip of LED's under the front fender. I am not sure I like that spot. Anything flinging off the tires will hit them. Also I would rather not run any wires out to the font fenders if I can keep from it.

 

I was thinking a bullet LED under the headlights, but those are blocked from side view. The Caterhams have their lights way out front, so it works on those, but these lights are set back.

 

Looking for ideas.

 

I was planning on doing the bullet style up front and will likely also add side-facing indicators in the middle of the body somewhere.

[xcarguy]

jevs,

 

I used a turn signal from a Kawasaki motor cycle. I chose the light because it was rubber mounted and was a dual filament unit which doubled as a park light/turn signal. At the time (2007), I remember having a difficult time finding a dual filament light that was both small and fit the look of the car. Another part of my criteria was that I did not want a light that mounted to the hood which would require my having to unplug the lights every time I removed the hood (my hood hinges use quick release pins allowing the hood can be removed fairly quickly). To mount the light, I welded tabs on each side of the frame rail forward of the A-arms.

 

If you beat the bushes, I’m sure you can find a light that fits the look of the M-Spec. FWIW, here’s what I did back in 07’ (third row down on the Gallery page). May spark an idea or two:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=9910

Edited September 8, 2014 by xcarguy

[jevs]

Yeah I found some pictures where they mounted bullets in front of the control arms just behind the body and mounted from the frame as far as I can tell.

 

I might do this.

 

I think I am just going to order some decent looking LED bullets and figure out where to put them later.

 

I spent all weekend researching and ordering parts. I think that is more exhausting than building.

[jevs]

jevs,

 

I used a turn signal from a Kawasaki motor cycle. I chose the light because it rubber mounted and was a dual filament unit which doubled as a park light/turn signal. At the time (2006/7), I remember having a difficult time finding a dual filament light that was both small and fit the look of the car. Another part of my criteria was that I did not want a light that mounted to the hood which would require my having to unplug the lights every time I removed the hood. To mount the light, I welded tabs on each side of the frame rail forward of the A-arms.

 

If you beat the bushes, I’m sure you can find a light that fits the look of the M-Spec. FWIW, here’s what I did back in 07’ (third row down on the Gallery page). May spark an idea or two:

 

http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=9910

 

I am not building an M spec Its really a Classic R XL I suppose.

 

But yeah, I saw some like yours as I was browsing for a couple hours. So far I like this idea the best.

[xcarguy]

I am not building an M spec Its really a Classic R XL I suppose.

 

But yeah, I saw some like yours as I was browsing for a couple hours. So far I like this idea the best.

 

 

jevs,

 

My apologies. I do remember you're doing the Classic R XL. If you decide to go with something like mine, here is the part number and a link (seven years and no issues . . . . still using the same bulbs):

 

http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/ksi-11-2642/overview/vehicle-type/street/year/1992/make/kawasaki/model/en500-vulcan-500

[Dave W]

If considering mounting the turn and running lights on the nose, and you want a quick release system, try a trailer light connector. Takes about 5 seconds to disconnect the one plug. Dave W

[jevs]

I will try to avoid mounting anything to the fiberglass, but if I were to need that, I have a huge selection of 3 different types of weather tight connectors on hand to pick from. These are the 3 kits I keep on hand among some other misc junk.

 

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=682

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=686

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=691

[xcarguy]

I will try to avoid mounting anything to the fiberglass, but if I were to need that, I have a huge selection of 3 different types of weather tight connectors on hand to pick from. These are the 3 kits I keep on hand among some other misc junk.

 

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=682

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=686

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=67_56&products_id=691

 

jevs,

 

 

Thanks for sharing. You just 'uped' the bar on wiring. :cheers:

[NVP66S]

I used a 3-pin Weatherpack connector (I got mine from jegs; it looks like you get yours from Casper) on my nose and tie-rapped the connector pair to the chassis. Yeah, I use a new tie-rap every time I remove the nose, which has been once so far. A trailer light connector would be cheaper but I already had the Weatherpack kit.

Edited September 8, 2014 by NVP66S

[jevs]

I can't remember where I ordered from (wherever was cheaper). But Summit and Jegs may sell the Casper kits. Can't really recall.

[xcarguy]

. . . . . Yeah, I use a new tie-rap every time I remove the nose . . . .

 

I'm the king of zip ties. O'Reilly loves me. :jester:

[jevs]

I think I have narrowed it down to two choices. I will convert either of these to LED. Finding a two input LED is hard and the ones I did see cost hundreds of dollars.

 

Both say they are 2" diameter. Both have a dome shape lens for better side and front viewing.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIA-TURNSIGNAL-CUSTOM-AMBER-DUAL-FILAMENT-BLACK-BULLET-LIGHTS-SET-HARLEY-/321368255868?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad30a6d7c&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIA-TURNSIGNAL-CUSTOM-AMBER-DUAL-FILAMENT-BLACK-BULLET-LIGHTS-SET-HARLEY-/321368255868?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad30a6d7c&vxp=mtr

[xcarguy]

I think I have narrowed it down to two choices. I will convert either of these to LED. Finding a two input LED is hard and the ones I did see cost hundreds of dollars.

 

Both say they are 2" diameter. Both have a dome shape lens for better side and front viewing.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIA-TURNSIGNAL-CUSTOM-AMBER-DUAL-FILAMENT-BLACK-BULLET-LIGHTS-SET-HARLEY-/321368255868?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad30a6d7c&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIA-TURNSIGNAL-CUSTOM-AMBER-DUAL-FILAMENT-BLACK-BULLET-LIGHTS-SET-HARLEY-/321368255868?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad30a6d7c&vxp=mtr

 

 

jevs,

 

Just some FYI you may want ahead of time; I used the chrome bullet type on another car I built and had trouble out of them from day one. The problem was three-fold: the lens actually melted from the bulb heat in two of the lights; the bulbs burned out in all the lights in a very short while (I think this was more due to no vibration dampening as replacements didn't resolve the issue); and the lens-to-body fastening was cheap at best (seemed more like an after-thought). As for the black housings, I like that look better, but still have concerns about no vibration dampening.

 

. . . . . . :svengo:

[jevs]

The lamp heat should be a non issue. The LED's won't get as hot. As for the rest, only one way to find out. There will also not be any delicate filaments. None of the rest of the lamps on the car have rubber stalks, so I would say these are no more prone to failure than the other stuff.

 

I can't speak for the Chinese build quality until I actually try some.

 

For $20-25 a pair I really wouldn't spend any more time worrying about it. I would just replace them if they did have an issue later.

 

I like the black ones because they are black and more inconspicuous. Especially if I paint my car a dark color. I am trying to stay away from shiny stuff as much as I can.

 

However, the chrome ones would match my headlight buckets more....tough choice.

 

They both mount the same, so I could always change my mind later I suppose.

[jevs]

I found the black ones in a chrome version too. I am leaning towards this style since you had problems with the others. Might as well try something else. Also, these are shorter, I think, in case anything is in the way (control arms). I think the actual lens area may be bigger also which is a plus for safety.

 

Not that it matters a whole lot, but it looks like they match my tail lights a little better too.

 

now, chrome or black is the choice.

[xcarguy]

I agree, LED's should illuminate heat and vibration issues.

[jevs]

Found one with these same lights on it, but mounted to the fiberglass and in chrome. I am ordering the black ones. They will look a little more hidden where I will put them.

[Mondo]

I like a little more flush.. like these

http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/FLUSHMOUNT-TURN-SIGNALS/

 

or these short stock... all of these are really small (for sportbikes)

 

http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/SHORT-STALK-TURN-SIGNALS/

[jevs]

Flush won't work for the location I am doing.

The problem with all those stalks is that they are single filament or single LED. I needed dual filament so I can have the parking light and blinker in the same light. Dual filament narrows the choices dramatically.

Mine are now ordered. So I am moving on to the next items in the parts list to research and order. Hopefully I will be back to actually working on the car again soon and making progress that gets seen.