subtlez28

No track video yet. I am not a huge fan of standard in car video as I really enjoy watching the chassis respond. My original idea was to mount a rod to place a go-pro over and behind the car to hopefully capture the track and car movement. Now that "selfie sticks" have come into fashion... Kinda ruins my idea... Still may do it though.

My mind was not on MANkinis when I commented... This has taken a very dark turn... Not that there is anything wrong with that... If thats your deal Since we are there... The question is... You can see my fire jacket... But not full race suit... Spoiler: Club and track rules require full pants and closed toes shoes... Settle down!

Ha! Solid point. Think of the issued body work is ill fitting granny panties. After seeing the naked rear, I'm thinking thong or nothing at all!

The supplied bodywork rubs with the suspension maxed out. I'm leaning toward bicycle style fenders front and rear. Still deciding on that.

There was a pro-photographer at one of my track events. I finally had some time to upload and share a couple action shots! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/301V4533_zpsqvrbpu8i.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/301V8852_zpss4wljqf6.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/301V9052_zpsevx5ogaw.jpg

I got back to the track today, and thanks to a smoother experience was able to get 11 runs (ironically) in in the 1st two hours! Thats good because after the sun goes down, so does grip. This time I ran 12, 10 and then 8 PSI in my 275/40/17 Drag Radials. I got more respectable 1.8XX 60' times and was rewarded with a bunch of 11 flats at 125 MPH. My best of the day was 11.040 @125.33 with a 1.845 60'. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/02593650-738F-469A-A019-C5D0F3603985_zpsaujqrxbr.jpg The little 7 must be intimidating, because a couple people red lighted against me... I was so desperately close to the 10s... But traction was limited and going away as the track cooled. A couple guys told me they could hear the tires spin even as I shifted into 4th. I'm confident I will see 10s this spring with warmer track. I was hoping to run the DRs as my street tires. But it appears I may need to go even more aggressive on tire to get the best 1/4 mile times (deep 10s?). I was happy though, I ran across this guy at the track. The Lambo was having traction issues also. He told me he ran a 11.5 @135 with a 2.2 60'. I didn't get to line up with him but felt pretty good about my budget home built running quicker! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/86D3546C-6686-4038-BCA3-5E4B71DE9A28_zpsolibhzgo.jpg I also finally got a 0-60 time from my Speedhut GPS speedo! 3.03 seconds! Again, painfully close to the 2.XX bragging rights... Oh well, next year. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E3B8E79E-4CB6-4CC5-BA49-9A16105C5D4D_zpsi9gn7hpu.jpg Murica'!

Thanks for the kind words Kitcat! Yes, reliability has been a goal. The engine is pretty mild. Aftermarket rod bolts to hold it together, OEM LS9 cam, and heavy LS7 clutch. I could have saved some weight there but don't want to work on it unless it makes it faster! I went to go drag racing and discovered it does require front pad replacement. I guess slowing from the big straights at BHF and RA have taken their toll. The good news is the Wilwood pads are only $40 something and the Miata rotors are less than $20 a piece. And I'm still on my original (used) Hoosiers!! Cheap consumables for the win!!

I got a nudge on another forum and it reminded me to update. Sorry for the low sleep rambling but basically I am getting faster on the Road Course, but no quicker in the 1/4 yet. I've been tracking the crap out of it, and neglecting the build thread. I'm more of a road course guy. I have set fast time of day at every timed event I have done this year! Simple less weight theory in action! My events have been at Blackhawk Farms mostly but one road race event at Milwaukee Mile. Fun track. I never raced it before for fear of concrete. Sadly two racers' cars fell victim to that concrete that day... I also went to Road America for the 1st time! Wow, you cannot oversell that place! I love it! High speeds. I don't know exactly how fast I got down the main straight but can tell you it was over 150, as I needed 5th gear! Gets pretty loud with no roof or windshield! I was definitely hitting some aero limits at that speed. Need to think about a windshield and downforce. Whooping up on C7 Z06s on track days was quite a thrill! As far as drag racing, I picked up some Nitto DRs earlier, also in 275/40/17s. I probably should have waited for some MTs. But I got in a hurry. As luck would have it I got rained out whenever I had time to go drag racing until last week. My previous best was a 11.4 @124.01 with a 1.815 60', on road race Hoosiers. The DRs were not the miracle cure I hoped for. I only got four runs in because it was Honda Night at Greatlakes Dragaway.... I'll hold back on that rant... 1- 11.660 @125.41 w/ 2.020 60' 2- 11.879 @ 123.84 w/ 2.030 3- 11.576 @ 125.10 w/ 2.057 4- 11.973 @ 123.64 w/ 2.151 (spinning a lot) My son got some cell phone video that I will post once I edit it down. I started at 18 PSI, then went to 16 PSI for the last two. I'm hoping lower pressure will do the trick. I also couldn't work on my launch much with just the 4 runs thanks to the Hump Day Honda $#!+ Show... I hope to get back to GLD this Wednesday. Side note, a buddy of mine with essentially the same engine in his 69 Camaro came along. With his current tune he made 449 RWHP! Up from the 419 he rain with initial tune (I am basing my power estimate on). I have some bigger headers coming from Brunton. Once I get those on I need to get to the Dyno and tuner myself!

The problem with a suspension seat in a Brunton, or any 7 for that matter is staying under the roll bar. I don't think I even have the room for sliders under my seat.

I'm glad to see you getting back on the horse Shane! Obviously, we hope for a well documented (new?) build thread! Are you staying solid rear axle? Are you staying outboard coil overs or switching to the canti-lever front end? I'm kind of assuming you are keeping it with the same design to reuse as many parts as practical.

Well done! I like the flat paint. I feel confident saying it will be even more exciting on track!

Wow I love it! I was kicking around a similar idea for the future to get some serious top end. I didn't consider keeping the main body work, and adding on. Awesome!

With the water it takes little effort, just give her some gas and let the clutch out in 2nd. Like Glen told me... 1st gear is just for putting it on the trailer.

I may just have to add that extra shoulder bar you have on the new chassis, Shane. I like that idea! Are you keeping it otherwise the same? Same front suspension and rear axle?

Found it! Get those DRs on there Mike! I have a pair of 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson's coming from Summit. We'll see how quick an LS3 Storker can go, or what the weak point is in the drive line (I have the IRS in mine). LOL I am currently running similar numbers to you for similar reasons (tire spin through 1/2 track). I had two good passes on a well prepped, warm track and dropped my 60' from 2.2s to a 1.8 (on 25.5 road race Hoosiers). That was good for a 11.4 @124. Then when the track cooled I was back in the 12s, all over the 12s dependent on how much tire spin. I attribute my slightly higher trap speed to my lower altitude and LS9 cam. But I bet with traction you will run similarly quick!

Thanks Mike! I was looking for the thread where you listed your drag times... (edit: found it) I'm planning on using the DRs as my street tires. Scaring people with acceleration would be safer than with cornering. I admit I may need to re-think that for a longer trip. I think you could certainly retrofit the newer power brake set up to the older chassis. My only concern would be if the Miata master cylinder is proper volume for whatever calipers you are running. If you want to give it a shot, PM me. I could ship you my whole set up down to the line fittings. I went the other way (took off the power for manual). FWIW I really like the Wilwood pedal set up with two masters. Wildwood's Tech Department was very helpful in selecting proper size cylinders (I'm using their 4 pot calipers at both ends). In fact, it worked right out of the box. I haven't even needed to adjust.

Cut and pasted from another tread/form: I'm not 100% finished with my car yet (M-spec #007), but have been racing it since last fall. I don't have it all the way sorted yet but am very happy with its performance. I really want to hear numbers from other owners. These are impressive little cars!! I don't have my rear body work, lights or front fenders mounted yet. But I did mock up my rear body work when I scaled it. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/6914726C-E803-4B15-8C56-527F2F885095_zpsbtiqyk5g.jpg ROAD COURSE It is hard to compare road course times I since we are scattered out throughout the country (and some outside the country I'm sure). But at my home track, Blackhawk Farms Raceway I have set fast time of day at the last two events! I race a format called High Speed Auto Cross (HSAX). This is a full track run, from a standing start, no cones. My first time out (09/14) I ran a best time of 1:19.760. That is pretty quick, especially for a first event. For reference the fast time I ever ran with my old 02 Z28 was a 1:25.809 (a then class record on street tires). The current track record was set that day by a 1,000 HP, tuned GTR at 1:14. I came back after a tire and brake change this season and have set FTD at both events running a 1:19.062 at the first event and a 1:17.321 at the next! I think with some aero, seat time and stickier tires that GTR's record may fall! Again, for reference the 2nd fastest car at my recent event was brand new Z28 (GM's new track toy) and it ran a 1:20.xxx. Man was it fun passing him and Z06 Corvettes in the HPDE that weekend! 1/4 MILE DRAG STRIP I know these cars are not set up to be drag racers, but with the power to weight I knew it would be fun. In 2014 I ran at a cold autumn open track night. Tires spinning well past 1/2 track I ran a best of: 12.336 @123.84 mph! Not bad, but due to some issues I was not able to do a burn out, and the road race tires were not ideal. My 60' was 2.261... This year I went back, still on my vintage road race 25.5x10.0x15 Hoosier bias plies, but this time I had a warmer track and did a good burn out. Best run was: 11.429 @124.01 The big difference was the more respectable 1.815 60'. I have some drag radials coming. I'm hoping to be in the 10's next time around. WEIGHT A racer friend let me borrow his scales this week. My car is a M-spec w the classic hood, an LS3, and T-56. I'm a little heavy though with the 15x10 steel race wheels. 1711 pounds with fluids (not quite full gas tank). Empty it has a 50.5/49.5 front/rear balance. With me in the car it weighs 1894 with a 47.7/52.3 weight balance. 0-60 Time I haven't had a chance to capture that number, but I am eager to see what you other owners are finding. I'm guessing it will be quite impressive when I get the drag radials. Lets hear some more numbers! I would also be interested in some top speed and lateral G numbers if anyone has recorded them. Heck, how about miles per gallon even! I like reading about new car performance tests. But, I'm even more interested in what our group of cars are capable of!

Shane I echo the hope your recovery is going and continues to go well. I take your warning seriously about safety gear. Now that my Storker is race ready, and setting fast time of day at the last couple events.... I realize the real risk I am taking with my lack of safety gear. When people ask me if my car is safe, my token reply is, "safer than a motorcycle". Though true, a $500 head restraint system seems like a no brainer. I wouldn't/didn't balk at spending money for more speed. Time to invest in safety!

Kitcat, yes, I bet the Z/28 driver was not pleased. He left early, so I didn't get to talk with him. He didn't seem to let off and "give" me the pass, but I'm not sure if he was new to the format or what. Either way it felt good. There was a Viper GTS in the HPDE beginner group. I would have really enjoyed passing him also! X - glad to hear you are rebuilding! I look forward to the complete story. I really like the new pedal set up. We have different brakes, but I wasn't able to solve my lock up issues. I think Scott and Glen like the power brakes for different reasons. Parking lot autocross is a different animal, and also explains their affection for power steering. Plus, they let others (Glens wife for one) drive the car. So, the high pedal effort is not ideal for them. I was going into a tight over 90 turn with an entry speed of over 130 MPH. I have 100% faith in the manual brakes. I will trade the higher effort for better feel and simplicity. Personal preference only. As far as the trio pedal placement, it is night and day better for me. I plan to talk to Scott about it as I think it would be a good way for future builders to go. The only catch is that they are further back from the firewall to clear. But if you have room to move your seat back, I would go this way for sure, given your track use. Toedrag, I just had some issues with the bleeder seeping. Not a big deal but leaking fluids really set off my ADD. Plus, I hate repeating the same work. I bled it traditionally (guy on the pedal) and that worked ok. I also remember guys running 4th gen F-bodies having issues with these clutch bleedings, so again, I wished to avoid doing it again. As the day wore on at the HSAX, I noticed a drive-line clunk. I tracked it down to the differential to chassis bolts loosening up (maybe 3 hours of track use now). I re-installed them with lock tight and lock washers today. Definitely something to keep an eye on while breaking in your new ride!

I completed my first HPDE on Saturday. I had not done an HPDE before because I thought I would miss having the competition of lap times (like the full course HSAX - Time Attacks I do). I am hooked! Tons of lap time for the money, and passing is addictive!!! I then competed in the HSAX at Blackhawk Farms on the following Monday (Memorial Day). I set fast time of day (admittedly the crazy fast cars from the club weren't there like the 1,000 HP GT-R, LS swapped Datson or race ready Evo)!! A friend snapped a pic of another friend of mine (and alignment guy) who co-drove (I was #228, he was #288 ). This time he didn't embarrass me by setting a faster time (in my car), like he did in a low speed autocross last fall... http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E811C4E3-6BFA-4312-8686-D6FEFF79E92A_zpstsmbfpre.jpg I got to beat up on a kit Cobra (who admittedly was not driving with my level of aggression), Z06s, some dedicated race cars, and even a brand new Z/28 that weekend! Passing cars in a Storker is a thrill! The big 427 Camaro was the only one that really required much effort to pass. Light is good!

Another off season add on was to add some oil control. I had not yet noticed an issue, but guys with fast C6 vettes and another Stalker owner have found the limits of the Corvette pan's baffling. Improved Racing makes a set up to help with this. I figured it was cheap insurance. I considered an Accusump (in fact I have a whole set up I purchased for another LS racer), but for now I want to avoid the complication and room it would consume. Of course I put off the undesirable task of dropping the pan until the day before my first event of the year (an HPDE at Blackhawk Farms). The Improved Racing baffle can be purchased with a crank scraper/windage tray for the 6.2. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/D0A4696A-DACD-4C5A-9120-0D8D0C224FFA_zpsbosbexbt.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/FF3D92D4-61A4-452C-8CD3-596E4556E71A_zps10pwmxtx.jpg While I was at it I squirted the white cowl black w Plasti-dip (love that stuff) and threw on the seat covers (I raced it last year with bare aluminum seats). Looking sinister! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/6914726C-E803-4B15-8C56-527F2F885095_zpsbtiqyk5g.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/DCB850FE-E188-454A-9130-AB0FDEFC773D_zpskxkc2mxf.jpg

Part of my brake upgrade also called for a cool kit I found at Flyin' Miata. They machine Wilwood 4 pots to accept an integrated emergency brake. This was a double score as I wanted more brake power, and the OEM Miata calipers oriented the emergency brake toward the tub of the car. The FM kit had the brake cable run straight toward the inside (perpendicular to the rotor). http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/92172C4E-4E91-469E-A68C-828BBEEB6F63_zpsbnugzqyc.jpg I am impressed with the machine work on the kit. I was also able to upgrade to the slightly larger (but still cheap) Miata "sport" rotors. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/CFA201D3-0616-413F-B6C8-A47D17E918D7_zpspfusfizp.jpg The pretty purple anodizing didn't really fit my style, so I rattle canned them black quick prior to installation: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E5024D93-EFD8-49A1-9E8A-39880901B4AA_zps2lqkmcto.jpg I also took the chance to install some longer ARP wheel studs. They went in with the hub in place (there is a relief cut out) which was a huge relief (see what I did there?!). I also needed the longer studs. I have to run a 13mm spacer on the front and rear to get the steel wheels to clear the beefy Wilwood calipers. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4BD45C03-ACCA-4B0B-96B7-A57747D0CCBB_zpsmvzyj4a7.jpg I am now running Wilwood BP20 pads front and rear. So far so good. No issues with fade whatsoever (during 20 minute HPDE sessions). Gotta love light cars!

So, I've been a little neglectful of updates to my build. Over the winter I had to pull the car basically entirely apart. I had to have the T-56 repaired. That meant pulling the engine, which meant pulling the interior, bodywork, steering , exhaust and part of the front suspension. The good news was with the engine, shelf, scuttle, and side panel out of the way, I was set to update an area I was not entirely happy with (brakes and pedals). After much thought I took a chance on Wilwood's dedicated pedal set up. I felt this was an area worthy of improvement. Firstly, I was experiencing front brake lock up that I could not work out with the adjustable proportioning valve (limiting pressure to the rear). I was also skeptical of the need for power brakes on the car. I was already in love with the manual steering, and wanted similar feel and feedback in the brakes. I also like the spartan nature and effort required to hustle the car around. Anyway, I probably should have taken better pics of the original set up. I was never truly satisfied with the pedal placement. Original set up included a Wilwood pedal for clutch, another for brake, and a custom set up from Brunton to allow a lot of accelerator pedal travel to actuate the "fly by wire" pedal/sensor, that was mounted up on the shelf. Their set up worked, just like I said, room for improvement. Here is the Wilwood pedal set up. It looks and feels more race car now! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/B78F1382-A64F-4CD6-BFDE-AB83682E7BB4_zpshj2vtpkl.jpg I did have to move the pedals rearward to clear the trio. I moved the seat back to compensate, and am overall happier. The main draw was going to manual brakes, and divorced two master cylinders for the front and rear brakes. This also allowed for a balance bar to further tune the bias. Willwood's tech line guy was extremely helpful! At his recommendation I went with a 3/4" front and 7/8" rear master cylinder. I kept the original wildwood master cylinder for the clutch (in fact we kept the hydraulics in tact with the motor pulled to avoid the pain of bleeding again). Engine out allowed for much easier brake line modification as the brake masters (Wilwoods new mini masters) were on the floor rather than the shelf. I relocated the accelerator pedal for the LS engine harness to under the shelf also. We were able to work out a ratio that allows 6" of accelerator pedal travel. A must to modulate the arguably overkill (no such thing) power level. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/48B76435-4529-4A3F-9FDE-795F26647F89_zpsa1zfh4wh.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/3CC66A33-86B0-402D-9994-CB0DADB1C18A_zpse1n7ljft.jpg

Jevs, I also had some of the same exhaust issues. I had an issue with the two sides being asymmetrical. I actually bullied them by putting an aluminum bat in the collector. Not advisable because it egged out the collector, which I then fixed.. It looks like you have worked through the issue well. I also do not care for how low my exhaust hangs. It is lower than yours appears, and is a hang up point when loading on the trailer. What are those red bushings between the chassis and muffler bracket? I did some searching for them originally, and ended up using some poly end link bushings I had in the tool box. I lucked out and they didn't start on fire... Yet... I'm assuming someone makes a part, specific for this purpose. I also had some quality issues. It seems they burned through the tubes when welding up the collectors (not Brunton's modifications). My first race, the exhaust was popping, and there was white residue on the headers. Once I figured out that fresh air in the headers was letting the waste gasses burn prior to the cats, I welded up the holes I could find. I still think there are some in the hidden welds inboard on the collector. I may try to start over on them. I asked Brunton what the application they source the headers for. I think they are small block ford (maybe Cobras?) and they put on the LS engine flange. Again, the weld issues are not from Brunton's mods. It just appears the over-seas welders were not on their game that day for Headman.... This might allow me to raise, the exhaust also.

How wide are the wheels? What is the spec for the bolt pattern in mm (4x100 etc)? Where are you located?