subtlez28

I feel a bit slighted X...:nopity: My car is on the track, but still not street legal (needs lights and state inspections). I'm at almost two years. But, it was very much on the back burner with life, wife, kids, career, etc. I worked on it about two days a month on average. If you really got cracking on it, you could build it in a matter of weeks if you had parts on hand. Basic backyard builder could do it in months if you made it a priority. The builds mentioned above have some good research posted that will save a new builder some time (sourcing parts in particular). You can check out my build thread, I documented the early stuff better, as I started getting in a hurry at the end. http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8449

I was ll set to order one of these to replace my temporary aluminum linkage. But my linkage is ~4.75" center to center, so the kits start to large for me. What lengths are you guys seeing?

This is really cool to see. I wish you guys had built your kits first. I really struggled with pedal placement also. And, like you had difficulty sourcing a heim set up small enough. I wish Brunton would include those parts in the kit. Anyway, my set up also came from impatience, and just wanting to drive the car. A simple flat piece of (scrap) aluminum connects the pedal to the DBW set up. I intend to replace it with adjustable heims down the road, but it works for now. I was concerned about flexing the shelf also. The DBW pedal required a lot of force! I cut one of the springs off. I'm not sure that was a good idea now though. I was told from the start, that a lot of pedal travel was key to getting the LS3 power to the ground. So with the ratio, and mechanical advantage, the pedal is a bit to easy to push. All the travel also means I'm not 100% satisfied with pedal placement from a heal/toe perspective. More find tuning for the off season! Keep up the great build thread! You are quite a craftsman.

As promised, here is Wilwood had to say so far: You may have too much piston area in the front (or pad compound is too aggressive), but it is never recommended in plumbing a proportioning valve to your front brakes. You never want to reduce pressure to your primary brakes(fronts). If you are looking in going with a manual brake system, a 15/16" bore size master or a 1" would be recommended. A 15/16" master cylinder will have slightly more pedal travel than the 1" but will require less leg effort to make the same amount of psi. Regards, Wilwood Disc Brakes and then: The Balance bar will need to be custom mounted to your pedal assembly (minimum 6:1 pedal ratio is recommended). Below is a link to the balance bar information: http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds252.pdf Regards, Wilwood Disc Brakes

I am very jealous of the 315 toyos!

Safety minded guys may not like this, because they have no fire retardant, but I picked up wrestling shoes at the local sporting goods store. Simple, cheaper, work great to fit my size 12s in the cramped pedal box. And as said earlier, I felt the need to try them on 1st.

I run a square set up. 25.5"s front and rear. Made it much easier to load on the trailer! LOL

Agreed. I'm eager to see what some Drag Radials can do. I think the rule of thumb is that every tenth you cut from your 60' is worth two tenths at the end. So if I could muster a 1.60 (attainable for a street car) that puts me deep in the 11s. Thing is we are spinning a long way down the track. So some traction could net us some impressive improvements!

The right lane trap mph was not working. Lets see who can guess what number I am... http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/28C34F2E-501D-4DA2-ACAF-4322112BB9F9_zpsk8yc0dgg.jpg I went to a test and tune Weds with some friends. I spent the first couple hours trying to diagnose a no-charging issue. Ultimately I gave up, charge it w jumper cables, pushed it through staging and made a run. Oddly after the run it started charging so I made a few passes. I swapped out my 23" Hoosiers for some 25.5s. Not only do they look bad @$$, they allow me to run higher speed in fourth, avoiding using overdrive like I had to at BHF. I ran 17 psi. I imagine it would have liked less pressure for drag racing, but really not what the tires are for. I also passed on the burn out since I am having issues with reverse... My friend took a decent video that I will try to post soon. You can hear the poor Hoosiers begging for traction pretty much the whole way. I really couldn't go full throttle in 2nd (the gear I launch in) without burning off the tires. Third was also touchy. I was short shifting an bit, which might explain the lower than expected trap speed. Point being there is plenty left in it! I also did a low speed autocross. It was in an oval track and infield, so it was pretty tight. Not ideal for such a powerful car. It also tended to push badly in low speed corners. I think this is a scrub issue, as the 15's I am running require spacers, so they are not optimal offset wise. I also experienced front lock up again (running the 23"s). I have one more high speed event in October. I am hoping the taller slicks help. I do not have time to do much with the brakes before then. The off season will be the time for brake and oiling revisions.

Congrats Degoetz! I'm glad to hear you have confident braking. I'm tempted to do the same to get me through the rest of the season. On my end though, I feel if you need to restrict front brake pressure, the master cylinder is improperly sized. Additionally, I think the power assist is unneeded. So... I have contacted Wilwood directly to seek their recommendations. I sent the following: "I have a component car Lotus Seven replica (Brunton Stalker M-spec), it weighs 1,500-1,600 pounds. It uses 99 Miata brakes and suspension uprights. I have upgraded Wilwood 4 piston calipers on the front, with stock size rotors (Wilwood 150-9413K pads). On the rear I have stock 99 miata brakes (rotors and calipers) - EBC yellow pads. I have a stock, 99 Miata master cylinder, and a Wilwood proportioning valve inline to the rear brakes. The proportioning valve is set fully open, with no restriction to the rear. I am experiencing front lock up. I suspect the factory miata master is improperly sized for my application. I would like to run a manual, Wilwood master cylinder. I have Wilwood floor mount pedals (340-1289). I would like to know: -Would a different combination of pads eliminate this front lock up issue? -Do you offer a better sized master that will resolve the front lock up? -Is there an upgraded rear caliper that will provide better braking? -I'm told I should run a "split master, with balance bar". Is this a product you offer? Thank you in advance -Shaun-" I will pass along any feedback I receive.

I like the shock collar idea! Glen said he set up a low pressure switch to a horn when he was shaking his car down and had no issues. I think I will go with that IR baffle id I keep the LS3 pan. But, if space and packaging allow, I really would rather go scavenge only dry sump.

X, What do you have for oil pressure when your oil is hot, at idle? I'm not 100% sure I can trust these CAN-BUS gauges. They might be more like ball park factory gauges... I thought about tapping the oil line cover and running a mechanical gauge to see what kind of pressure I have. Yeah, my accusump set up is still in the box. I may have to pull my motor this winter to get the trans out... If I do that, maybe it would be best to put on a scavenge only dry sump or that new IR baffle. I just cannot get past the compromises involved in the accusump. Side question, what type of oil are you running?

I'm wondering about the same issue. I'm going in reverse order. Track 1st, road later. My hope is that I am not pulling enough Gs for long enough to run dry on my shorter tracks (~1.8-2 mile). My oil pressure gauge is not giving me warning so far, but it is a CAN-BUS, not mechanical. I did that for simplicity, but am now questioning the logic... I worry that it just doesn't react fast enough to drop when the actual pressure does. I have the LS3 Corvette pan. I wish I had an IR baffle when I put the motor together! I actually have a couple F-body ones on my never used shelf. My understand is also that the LS3 vette pan is lower profile and better braffled from the factory. I looked into the scavenge only dry sump. I like that idea best, but I'm not sure I have the physical space to mount the pump. Maybe backward like the alt... I have an accusump set up also on my shelf from my F-body days. I am hesitant to use it due to it's complexity and potential draw backs. But if I am starving the engine for oil, it may be a necessary evil. Just a couple more events this season. I have much to sort out this winter!

Cool read! Thanks for sharing the link!

I picked up a set of (6) 23x9.50x15 Hoosier Road Race Slicks (Compound FA) from Berget Race tires this spring. They were used from the SCCA run offs. Lots of tread left! (2) I never used or even mounted. (2) Were rears for one HSAX event at BHF. I was having some front brake lock up, so I am not selling the front (2) from BHF unless someone wants them. Only reason I am selling as I am going to taller slicks (25/26s). I'm pretty sure I paid $70 each for them. How about $200 OBO for the (4) I will be at Autobahn for the October 4 HSAX, or can help with delivery in Southern WI / Northern IL. Thanks -Shaun-

X, I agree with most of what you are saying... But... Leaving on the last yellow will improve your reaction time, but not your ET. ET starts when you break the beams. Helps you win the race, but not lower your time. My understanding is that lower (sea level) tracks equate to more HP. Again, that won't help the ET if tire spin is already the limiting factor, but it should increase trap speed. Drag radials will make this interesting. Doesn't look like I'll have mine this year either. Too bad, because my 23" RR slicks won't be ideal for the strip. Thanks for sharing Mike! Do you launch in 1st or 2nd? What is your rear tire now?

Sweet! I got rained out last Friday. Still need to get #007 to the 1/4 mile. I wonder what lower altitude will bring the LS3...

Degoetz, I wish you luck with your set up. I am also interested to hear your results. I have a low speed autocross I can run this weekend. I would like to switch to a more aggressive rear pad for that (ultimately switch master cylinders over the off season). Does anyone have a suggestion on a level or two more aggressive pad than the current rear EBC Yellows? I have miata rear brakes.

You make an interesting suggestion toedrag. However, I am sort of locked (that was for you X) on moving to manual brakes. I wanted to go manual initially, but was talked out of it. I understand why Brunton likes power brakes (and power steering) for low speed autocross, but I think manual would be the better choice for me personally. I'll contact Wilwood and get something properly sized for my application. This will also open up some shelf space!

Toedrag, you are a wealth of information!

So, bad news first. We got rained out on last Friday night, so we didn't get to run down the drag strip. Times are coming though, I promise! That was actually ok, as I worked on the car until after midnight (before the road course) fitting the hood and tying up last minute things. I ran without the rear body work. Good news: perfect weather on Saturday for our High Speed Autocross. As expected, even though this was literally the first time I dove it other than rolling around the parking lot, I found the confidence to push it right away! The car is obviously capable and surprisingly forgiving. It was the third fastest car there, behind a heavily modded GTR (no real hope of catching him), and a LS swapped - well sorted and moded Datson 240Z (driven by a very skilled and experienced driver). The form of racing I do is called High Speed Autocross. We run on ~2 mile road courses, from a stop, one lap for time (no cones). http://www.mcscc.org/autocross.php The car ran a 1:19.760. To put that into perspective, my fastest time with my old 02 Z-28 was 1:25.809, and I ran a 1:24.839 with a 2012 ZL-1 (580 HP Camaro). I have some video. I will edit and put something together when time allows. Though it does not capture the excitement as it looks pretty low drama with slicks. This thing hauled. Enough power on tap to light the tires in 4th gear meant busying myself with shifting much was not needed. It also helped me keep the rpms down for the maiden voyage (don't think I was taking it too easy though). Going ~130 mph with no windshield was quite the rush! I know better understand the chin strap as the wind wanted to rip it off my head! I absolutely love the manual steering! I finally understand what the car review guys mean when they say they can feel what the tire is doing through the wheel! I am strongly considering a move to manual brakes for the same reason. As far as teething issues, there were only a couple. I discovered another pin hole in my passenger side header (at a factory weld...). With the 23" slicks, I ran the track in 4th and 5th gear (needed 5th). I think I will move to taller slicks. Shifting into overdrive (5th) was not as speedy as the other gears. And the vague CTS-V shifter might not be helping that. Just stuff to refine. I also started experiencing a bit of front brake lock up in fast corners (like the 130 mph one at the end of the front straight). Not so much at weight transfer. I'm used to ABS cars, but that wasn't my mistake. It happened late in the braking. The proportioning valve is already allowing full pressure to the rear, so that isn't the issue. I may try a more aggressive rear compound and taller slicks for the next event. Long term I think I will go with race style manual brakes with split masters and a balance bar. Another issue was temp. According to my Speedhut CAN-BUS (reading through the OBDII diagnostic port) my LS (stock 195 thermostat and water-pump) was running 210-220 moving and as much as 240 sitting still. Not sure if this is normal with the Evans waterless coolant, the gauge is off, or if the fan is just not able to keep up (puller). I may swap to a larger, pusher fan. I'm rambling a bit. I look forward to any feedback or conversation on my results.

I had my first track outing with M-spec #007 yesterday and could not wait to get back to this thread. I am using a different tire combo (23x9.5 15" Hoosiers), but am having the same issue. My brakes may also be different as my kit was produced in late 2012 (long home build time). My kit uses Miata uprights and Miata power master. I have the upgraded Wilwood 4 pots in the front with Brunton's recommended pads (I will try to get which model and compount) and stock Miata brakes in the back w EBC yellows (again per recommendation). As for the ABS vs no ABS, I don't think that is the issue. I am gradually initiating braking, the lock up comes near the end, so the panic, weight transfer is not the issue. I had asked Glen about the brake proportioning valve provided with the kit. He said to keep it all the way open (no resistance to the rears) as the Wilwoods would out stop the miata brakes in back already. He was right about that... I have the shocks set very soft, again per recommendation. Anyway, in the fastest corner at Blackhawk Farms (1.95 mile road course), at the end of the front straight is where my lock up occurred. Entry speed was over 130. The first time you enter is more like 90-100 as it is from a stop (but on cold tires). I had pretty good braking initially into that corner, but would experience lock up in front toward the end of the braking. By the end of the day, I had flat spotted the Hoosiers (I think I had 65 miles on track that day). Now, this was my first experience with the car, and with slicks. So, there is some getting used to needed. I'm told slicks are much more sensitive to lock up then high performance street compounds. That said, I have a lot of laps (and 3 season Championships) from this track in heavier street cars with street tires. So, I'm not all that inexperienced. I think there is a problem with the set up. My thinking at the moment is: I would like to convert to manual brakes, with a balance bar. I think this miata master is just not idea. Some more aggressive pads for the back might help. I would like to run a larger slick (taller at least, wider is a maybe). I may try to get larger slicks yet this year (only one event left in my season), but different brake set up will have to wait for the off season. My particular form of racing is different from Scott's. He does parking lot SCCA autocross. I do what is called High Speed Autocross. Here we run full tracks (all about 2 miles), from a stop, with no cones. Timing and competition is otherwise like traditional autocross. BTW, for any other 7 owners in the midwest, this form of racing is kind of ideal for a 7. Check out: http://www.mcscc.org/autocross.php I'd love to see more 7s out there!

How difficult is it to spin your diff w the axles in? I don't remember trying without axles, but with everything in place, I was surprised how much force was needed to spin the axles by the driveshaft or vise versa. I'm hoping it is just tight because it is a new unit...

Honestly, if the stealership would have asked for $14.99, they would have sold me one! But, yeah, the clear hose will let me know if it (the hose) was necessary.

If you don't mind my asking, what did 19132947 cost? I called a local dealer and they wanted over $30! I cannot see that for such a basic piece. It is basically a PCV valve... They wouldn't give me the part number over the phone though. I ended up epoxying (because I couldn't tap w the diff installed) in a brass barb fitting, and running a short hose to a traditional vent cap ($1.50 at the trans shop). What you are saying makes sense. Maybe the new part number did eliminate the need for the hose (which I read was the TSB fix). However, I figure my diff will see more heat and abuse than the average CTS. I ran clear hose, so I will be able to see if or how much the fluid creeps up.