subtlez28

I totally understand why you do not want to release details on the crash until you finish dealing with insurance. Now, with the limited details we have, I'm sure we are all speculating. My theory, like the others, based on the low visible damage to the car is that you had a wheels first crash. My dad has a saying (I'm assuming he took this from somewhere) that jumping is just crashing wheels first. I have to speculate, that possibly because of your southern roots, you attempted your best Bo and Luke impression. http://youtu.be/G5XzkhnP5P8 Once you heal up, and if you chose to repair the car, might I suggest a change from red to orange. I'd skip the flag on the roof (easy enough since we don't have roofs on Storkers), but the 01 seems appropriate! Who is good at photo shop? I'll start a build thread on converting to early MOPAR torsion bar and leaf spring suspension.

Get well Shane! Cars are easily replaced. Good builders/drivers are hard to come by. I'm glad you stuck around, and look forward to your return to the community!

Cool video!

I had a line lock set up on a rusty old truck back in the day. The prior owner installed it when the parking pain failed. It would lose pressure when it sat. Not ideal in a parking lot that is not level, and you are inside the mall... As far as inspection goes, I would think they care more about a secondary way to make the car stop (should the brake hydraulics fail), not keep it parked.

That does help. Thank you. Is that the passenger side then? My calipers are toward the front of the car. That is why I have the clearance issues. I actually had to remove my park brake levers from the Miata calipers just to clear the chassis. Kind of pricey kit. But if performance is up, and it provides the parking brake I need to be legal, I may just have to try it. I'll need to do some pondering on parking brake lever location. My elbow takes up the room behind the shifter in my car.

Thanks Dave. Would you be able to supply a shot of the calipers, on the car. I would like to see how the e-brake brackets on the caliper line up. I have limited clearance with the stock miata stuff.

Oddly enough, shortly after typing the bathroom scale thing, I thought to myself, "self, the bathroom scale won't fit in that tiny pedal box". Ha Especially and not hang up on the clutch. As far as the floor, the Storker has a pretty stout plate there to mount the pedals. I had to space up my current pedals to clear the square tube also. I like the big rear brake idea (not so much the price). Do you have a shot of how the parking brake mounts? The current Miata stuff is really poorly placed, I don't think it will work anyway, and I need a parking brake for inspection. So that may kill two birds with one stone. Thank you for the pics. You answered some questions I had about brake light switches and residual valves.

I guess the package with the front calipers I have they run stock Miata rears. Mainly because of the integral parking brake. I'm not to worried about the expense. I want manual brakes anyway, and am not happy with my pedal set up. Kind of a hodge podge. The clutch pedal is at a bit of an angle per recommendation, and I am fairly unhappy with the throttle pedal set up. I'm hoping, especially with the pedals moved rearward, I can clean up that situation. If not, I will keep what I have and just swap the brake pedal. I could just swap to the other Wilwood brake pedal (like Xcar has) but I think this combo set up might be more to my liking. Wilwood tech said to put a bathroom scale between your foot and pedal to get the 100 pounds. That leaves a little room for error, but should get you in the ball park. So... Do you like the pedal set up? I assume it is well placed for heel-toeing.

Wilwood's tech guy also said to do the pressure test to rule out mechanical issues. A pressure gage is in my Summit cart as we speak. He said that with 100 pounds of pedal pressure, I should see around 1,000 psi up front and 7-900 psi rear. I have Wilwood 4 pots up front and stock Miata single pistons out back. Everything is new, so I don't know why I would have a mechanical issue. I also brought up the idea of the bias valve being the issue. He thinks that is very unlikely, I tend to agree as it is a very simple device. The only bummer is I cannot test with the power assist right now. I am pulling the engine do to some work on the trans. Come to think of it, I guess I could use a vacuum pump... I'm not seeing much input on the pedals themselves. I will likely purchase them. If for whatever reason, they do not work, I guess I will just have to build another car around them later!

It is indeed. The fronts lock up under heavy braking well before the rears. I have an adjustable proportioning valve inline with the rears, but it is all the way open. This issue was discussed in another thread, by another Storker owner: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9946 His solution was to plumb a prop valve to the fronts. While it apparently worked, I am not comfortable with this concept. The good news is your brakes are a bit different. Early M-specs had Miata power booster, stock Miata rear brakes and in my case upgraded Miata fronts with Wilwood calipers. So this may or may not be an issue for your chassis. I had looked at your set up in the past. I think we discussed this before: though your even earlier Storker set up is yet different again (using GM brakes) I like your set up. I debated with Glen over the need for power assist. I really like the manual steering feel and am glad I went with no assist there. I think I will also like manual brakes. I want to go to the balance bar, and Wilwood even recommends staggered size masters for front and rear (3/4 and 7/8 they said). Hopefully this solves the problem. I could make it all work with the divorced pedal set up. I'm just a little unhappy with the pedal set up anyway. My hope is this will be cleaner. This pedal set up might be an even easier set up in an XL, Toedrag. I'm not sure how much larger your footwell is, but imagine it is wider enough to clear these. As for right at the moment, I was just looking for feedback on the pedals themselves. They are just shy of 10" wide, so not a perfect fit for my cramped footwell, but I may give them a shot and mount them further rearward.

I currently have two individual Wilwood floor mount pedals for the brakes and clutch, and a custom set up from Brunton for my accelerator pedal(on my Stalker M-spec). I'm looking to go to a separate (2) master cylinder brake set up with a balance bar. That lead me to these: http://www.wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalProd.aspx?itemno=340-12410 They are a bit wide for my narrow foot box, but I think if I move them back some I can make them work. I have room to move my seat back. Before I drop the coin, has anyone tried them? I look forward to any feedback. I'm honestly not satisfied with my current pedal set up.

Well played sir! I have been jumping in and out of your thread, so I may have missed this if you detailed it earlier. Can I get more info and maybe a source for that inertia switch? That was something I intended to incorporate, but did not yet put in, during my rush to get racing in the fall. I remember my step brother's old Temp had a resettable inertia switch in the trunk. Literally the worst car anyone I know has owned (unbelievably slow, and yet still horrible mileage) , but I liked that little bit.

Those road kind of look like the golf cart paths on golf courses... I have an idea!

I sold my 80% complete LS1/T-56 swapped C4 (84) Corvette stripped down race car to buy my Stalker ("Storker"). Ultimately, I was confident I could not get the Vette as light or as simple as I wanted. So, I went with the Seven. But, what if there was middle ground? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GD3y7ylpqO8 Here is the original video/story that started this off years back: Obviously, some attention to ride height and alignment are in order... I thought some of you guys would get a kick out of this. This roadkill show is by far my favorite!

Well played, sir!

Discuss...:cheers:

That is impressive! I look forward to playing with performance electric vehicles when the tech price comes down!

Hmm.. Again I wish you had built yours first! Good find on the shifter. How did you find it, since it isn't on the site?

Very cool! Way to get the next generation racers involved!

I still cannot figure out why Brunton does not run an in tank pump, and then a Corvette C5 filter/regulator (the same part) like a lot of LS swappers do. You guys still have that option if your tanks are empty.

Both the fuel tank and radiator look different for the XL. What is the tank capacity? Do yourself a favor and carefully inspect the headers. I had multiple pin holes on the factory welds near the collectors (not Brunton's fault). I had a lot of flash rust. I had them blasted and painted, and the rust is already creeping back in the crevices. I think a chemical dip would be more ideal.

I had the AN fitting welded to my LS3 pump (and the LS7 pump I tried prior...). I was also worried about the pulley, but I guess it was not a problem. I had a pin hole leak in my aluminum radiator. At Brunton's suggestion I used "Quick Steel" (pretty much like JB Weld) and it has held perfectly. So, I think you would be fine either way. I would lean toward the welding though, as you will be applying twisting force when tightening up your hoses.

Toedrag, you are putting some real science into your build! Quite impressive. Your experiment has me wondering again about the accuracy of my CAN-BUS coolant temp and oil pressure gauges...

I intentionally did not log the hours, nor keep track of every nickel and dime spent... Those would be scary or depressing numbers I fear. Live in the moment! Don't sweat the details, I tell myself...

Sorry to hear that X! Figured u might as well have went dry sump since you needed a pan.. If it makes you feel any better X, I forgot to lock down the ball on my trailer last Friday night. Rolled the Storker on and watched the tongue slam into my tailgate... Next morning I towed it 2.5 hours in rain, to find more rain, 30 degree temps and high wind at the track. It didn't even come off the trailer... It seems the motorsports gods are angry lately...