subtlez28

This is encouraging! I'll be a little heavier w a steel trailer, but I don't see why I cannot stay under 2,990 with the M-spec on it. This is right along my thinking. Have you put your trailer on a scale, empty w the top on? Any input on the possibility of hinging it at the very front so it could be even lower profile? I suppose it would be a bit flimsy. Reverse gull wings? Looking at those posted sites w canvas tops have me thinking also. Some support bars... Local canvas shop... Only downside is security.

As I was reading through, this is just what I was thinking. My last toy was a UTV. I picked up a single axle utility trailer to haul it. It was 1,200 pounds. Within 400 pounds of the Stalker, so I think I will be fine. That said, I have not towed it complete yet. However, the idea of making it to some distant tracks makes me strongly desire the security and rain protection of enclosure. I was thinking about building a light weight and aerodynamic lid. I would like to see more discussion and maybe examples of that!

Thats my line of thinking. Torque comes in handy. Revs cost $... That was frightening on my computer. Must be wild in real life!

Style wise, I like it. But, I'm with Paul Hill here. This is pretty obviously a circle track chassis. Not really a lot of trick parts for a nearly $50k asking price.

Agreed, the Brunton XL model might be right up your alley! http://stalkercars.com/models/stalker-xl/ You could build CTS-V front to back! They do use CTS diffs. Part of me wishes I had went XL. I am not as large, but more space would be good for the street (I was focussing on the track). The new ones use mustang bolt pattern hubs (lots of wheel choices) and clear 315s in the back!

Thats funny! I doubt I will be able to keep my foot out of mine enough to get any record setting mpg. However, my old 02 Z28 with an LS1 and T-56 would get 29 mpg doing 80 down the interstate, with the AC on! Granted, that was more aerodynamic than a 7, but still.... I have to think your car could get deep into the 20s if you were just cruising.

I'm in favor of 1, 2, 3 and 572 (or even better a nice, light aluminum LS engine)!! Thats the thing about 'Merica... I want to have my cake, eat it to, and then maybe have a 2nd piece. America is a melting pot, right? Take the good from each culture, and make a great mix! Light british car design, Japanese brakes and suspension uprights (Miata pieces on my car) and good old American V-8 power.

Me to! Only, I will be copying xcarguy, who is copying you!

Just to be clear, I do "High Speed Autocross". One timed lap from a dead stop around a road course (no cones). Kind of like time attack, except for the start, and it is only one lap. Not track days. I would agree a mega horsepower car is not needed for those. The day the LS3 Stalker converted me was also a high speed autocross at Autobahn. Then I was running a 3,400 pound 02 Z28 (hence the screen name) and I thought, this LS1 and 6 speed would be way cooler w 1/2 the weight! To anyone in the Great Lakes area, who might be interested in High Speed Autocross, here is a link the the club I run with: http://www.mcscc.org/autocross.php

I think I can relate to your situation directly! I am a V-8 guy. Specifically an LS engine guy. I want the rumble of a V-8 for cruising, and awe inspiring power, even if it isn't all usable on the street. I was drawn the the 7, specifically the Stalker as it is likely the lightest thing a home mechanic can put an LS in. What brought these cars onto my radar was seeing an LS3 powered Stalker blow everything away at a track event at Autobahn Country Club (in Joliet). Point, being, like you I had the possibly irrational need for the V-8. I just don't enjoy the sound of lower displacements. As to your question on build vs buy. I'm going to vote buy a V-6 Stalker, drive it a bit, then swap in the LS engine later. But, I'm near the fence on the issue as building a car is quite an education. I picked up my M-spec in December of 2012. I had dreams of driving it in the spring thanks to those mythical 2 month builds you mentioned. I have a job, and kids, and other hobbies, so maybe my dedication wasn't where it needed to be. It is still is in progress. Life keeps getting in the way, but hopefully this spring... So my recommendation comes from the fact I wish I could have driven it last summer. Hopefully I'll be singing the opposite tune once mine is on the road! Sorry, I'm drowsy and rambling a bit. I'm not real far from you. Feel free to PM me if you want to check out my build in person. I also have a recommendation on a club to race with when you are ready for some road course time.

I don't know what kit he used, but you can see them here.

Thank you. Great execution on this build! Mine will not be as clean. More of a down and dirty racer I guess... One of the main things I was looking at was your throttle pedal set up. There is a lot of spring tension on the GM pedal I have. Enough I worry the shelf may flex. Did you so anything special there, or am I over-thinking it? I also just noticed your 90s on the heater ports of the water pump going to the surge tank. What is the idea there? I was told to simply block off the heater hose ports. My cooling system will be slightly different, though.

Quite a build Mike. I wish you were closer. I'd really like to gawk in person! Who is building your new harness? Could I get a shot of your engine compartment from the sides? I'm trying to figure out my layout. Though, I know mine will not be as clean due to the bulky power booster.

Oddly enough, I was just thinking last night: Could I get some more wheel travel and rally a seven? 4 wheel drive would help put the V-8 power down in the dirt! I am inspired!

That is great news! No one hurt. And even the car continues!

I think the thread is summed up pretty well above. Look, obviously we are all here in this 7 nitch of the car hobby because we believe lighter is better. We are just going to have to agree to disagree that more power is the answer. As I admitted, I am a V-8 junkie, particularly the LS variety. I'm putting one in a seven-ish car because it is about as light, and capable a starting point as I can find in my budget range. It is all a balancing act of power, weight, cost and simplicity in the end. If you want to build a lighter, lower powered seven, I'm all for it. Just don't be surprised when you get some argument when you claim superiority. I hope to see you at a track event when I get my heavy, powerful seven finished and sorted.

Hmmm... Kind of closed minded analogies and examples shown in this thread. Let me throw out mine. At my local 1.8 mile road course I raced a 02 Z28 a few years (hence the screen name). Despite its 3,600 race weight (me in it) it was a lot faster than the smaller, lighter, lower horse power cars like Miatas. An LS1 swapped, and lighter Z car was setting some of the fastest times. Then along cam a Brunton Stalker, with an even more powerful LS3, and obviously carrying less weight than any other car there. It set time of day by a long shot (so now, years later, I'm building one somewhat like it)! My point is light is good, but power cannot be ignored. I admit I love the roar of a V-8, and am biased here. How cool would it be to have a USA7s track day to sort out this inner rivalries!

Cringe! What could possibly go wrong w that?! Caution, this one has foul language: Based on this video I would say just rent a whole u haul truck! Seriously though, I have a flat deck, single axle utility trailer rated for 3,000 pounds. I intend to haul my relatively heavy 1,500-1,600 pound stalker on it. I originally purchased it to haul the UTV I had (1,200 lb RZR 900 XP). That towed beautifully, I would think the extra 400 lbs will not make much difference. If I was buying a trailer specifically for just the 7, I would go lighter and smaller still, like your ads. Mine does other chores like hauling lumber, brush and landscaping stuff.

I picked up a pair of front tires and had them mounted up. It is great to see a wheel and tire on the car! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zpsbc7bea29.jpg I intend to run a separate wheel/tire combo on the road course (15s and race tires). So, I have been contemplating running 17" drag radials on the back for the street... I remember reading a few years back how guys were auto-crossing f-bodies on 315 drag radials front and rear (due to lack of availability of good 315s I think). I know the idea of the softer side wall would work against handling but I have a few thoughts on that. 1- This is a very light car so a softer sidewall wont be as big of a deal as a heavier muscle car. 2- I'll be finding 9 and 10/10ths cornering on track, but will likely keep it more civil on the street. And acceleration runs may be the more fun, and safe thing for street driving (and scaring passengers). 3- I will then have my drag combo to drive down to the 1/4 track for kicks. I would like any feedback on that idea. Especially from guys running DRs on the street, and even more so if in a similarly light car. I have not yet committed to the idea, but my thought is 275/40/17 drag radials since I already have 17x9" wheels.

We dropped the engine and trans back in. I finally opened the box for the custom rear CV axles from the Driveshaft shop. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zps8d04d826.jpg I opted to have some new bearings pressed into the donor Miata rear spindles. I guess that was a good choice as the shop had difficulty getting them together. My rear suspension can now go on. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zps895694c5.jpg I noticed the other day that the hubs really fight being turned despite the fact there is no driveshaft connected. I'm guessing that may be the new bearings... Is that normal? I can turn them, but it requires some effort! The diff itself is new, but I couldn't really turn it until the axles were installed. I may have to pull some stuff apart and investigate... With the engine in, we bolted up a header, and made up the steering linkage. This was big for me. I can now sit in the car, shift the trans, work the pedals (except accelerator, which isn't in yet) and turn the wheels!!:driving: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zps83b71eff.jpg

We've made some more headway, I will try to catch up. We connected the aftermarket braided clutch lines to a factory style hydraulic throw out bearing (like an 02 Z28). Because I am using a CTS-V T-56, that came this a thicker, dual-mass flywheel, I had to space the through out bearing away from the trans. I used a piece from Katech (they are getting a lot of my $ on this build... ha). Hopefully everything works out, but I wont know for sure until I add fluid to the clutch hydraulics. I am avoiding adding any fluids now, in case things need to come apart again. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zpsfaad24a2.jpg I also learned that the CTS-V T56 bell housing is longer than the F-body bell housing. We had to make room for the new hydraulic lines by nothing the CTS-V bell. This was pretty straight forward with the aluminum. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zpsfa0a3750.jpg In other trans news, Brunton suggested removing the three bolt flange from the CTS-V T56 so a traditional slip yoke could be used. They also suggested I cut off the alignment dowel. I, wrongly assumed (possibly because I was told...) the output shaft would have the same spline count as an F-body unit, and the F-body rear seal would work if using a slip yoke. Wrong on both counts... The guys at Brunton are working on a custom drive shaft and seal. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/null_zps0c9b0a14.jpg I have also since learned the new Camaros also use this three bolt flange. Unfortunately, custom driveshafts are still kind of pricey for the flanges or require adaptors to use more traditional units. So, by converting to slip yoke, hopefully I am saving some money. More on this topic later.

For wheels, if I had a 5x4.75 bolt circle I would look into these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wld-71mb7090b48a/overview/ You could have them powder coated all black. Hopefully Xcarguy will chime in. He has a well built Stalker and I think he even has these or similar wheels. Here is his build thread: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7852

1- Wheel choices are next to endless. GM 5x4.75s were used on GM rwd cars and small trucks (S-10s). Your current wheels are S-10 wheels. You can search sites using a mid 80's Camaro as a vehicle for sites that require one (like tire rack etc). Going to 17 or 18 inch wheels would open up tire choices a lot, and open up bigger brake options. 2- Adding catalytic converters would be helpful. You could contact Brunton for a set of cat/mufflers or have a local shop add some high flow aftermarket cats to your existing pipes. Don't worry, high flow cats will not hurt power. 3- I'm not sure what I will use if anything, but share your desire to avoid carpet. I have not yet used this, but had my eye on Lizard skin. It is supposed to suppress heat and noise. http://www.lizardskin.com/ 4- I have Brunton's new style with independant suspension, so I don't know much about your existing set up. I would think a change to a Watts link if anything would be the way to go vs pan-hard rod. When I was looking at original Stalkers, I was thinking swapping in the IRS out of a C4 (84-96) Corvette would be cool. Suspension set up is all about geometry, so going to a mustang style set up (not dramatically different than 82-02 Camaros) would not be as simple as it appears. Having raced Camaro's I would not agree this is the ultimate set up. I did see a video on what Car and Driver liked about the new mustang suspension, but it is kind of vague. 5- Brake set ups should be plentiful even in the used market. Again S-10 stuff, but similar to other GM RWD cars. Maybe search on an s-10 forum. If you are willing to go 17" wheels or larger, you can run C5/C6 Corvette brakes which are great in a 3,600 pound car, so should really shine in your car! Downside is that all comes with weight. I'm sure you could get aftermarket Wilwoods or Baers that clear 15" wheels also. So that pivots on what size wheels you will use on track if different. The Brunton Guys have had success running 13" wheels. I am going to run 17s on the street but 15"s at the track to clear my Wilwoods, as that is the next smallest size with plentiful race tire selection. Next size up from there is really 18" as the 16 and 17s are getting more scarce (though available if you don't mind paying more). 6- To lighten the car.... Well for better power to weight, do an LS V-8 swap. They are all aluminum, and 500 HP is easy to come by! Part of me thinks I should have bought a used V-6 Stalker and swapped in the LS engine. Would have been quicker and cheaper than building a whole kit. Don't get me wrong though, I've learned a lot already and kind of like building it. I just would have liked to have been racing by now... Anyway, all these are great questions with limitless answers! I look forward to your progress. Keep us updated!

ATF has a lot of detergent in it and is less than $10 a quart. Just sayin'...

Cool videos! I'm sure it was not intentional, but you tricked me with the exterior, still shots of the car for the opening frames of a couple of the videos. In car camera is certainly the easiest way to document track time, but I have been searching for more exterior video. I am curious to see how the chassis moves around on 7s. Plus, nothing beats a nice sliding rear shot!