subtlez28

Thanks guys. You sold me. I just ordered an Elite can.

Thats awesome! I'm not quite there yet, but I will soon be researching what if anything needs to be run differently for an LS3.

Yes it is. Brunton swears this (power) is the way to go. It has Miata brakes all around (though I upgraded to Wilwoods up front).

Thanks for the feedback and info guys! We have made a small amount of progress since the last update. We installed the front suspension (again) and plumbed the brake lines: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/CA085421-7A27-4C09-B0BD-D14A31085911-14910-000018B019C4DD09_zpsa4851fc1.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/4C81D589-71C8-4932-B84B-675CDFF01C2A-14910-000018B02344F680_zps9ad69fe1.jpg It feels good to be permanently installing panels as apposed to the mock up stage. I hope to make some more strides int he next couple days.

Wow, is that a Unimog? I have not been so jealous in some time! Well done!! PM sent to pick your brian on an upcoming trip of mine.

The goal from the start was to trial fit most of the components, then take it apart to have the chassis powder coated. We got to that point, and I found a reasonable local powder coater. I'm proud to say I tore the car down to bare chassis in a mater of less than two hours! I was pretty excited to reach this milestone! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/A6E07D2C-29C6-4E79-9380-F2FB6FE41C90-11257-000012F6563E5CC1_zps102e2ca7.jpg One week later: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/98FF751C-41F7-4183-9255-0D56FE8BC5E1-11257-000012F6601C9A3E_zps7be0d970.jpg We already have the front suspension back in place, and bent up some brake lines. Soon we will plumb the fuel system. I put in a nearly $1k order to Summit for car electric harness and fuel system parts, fittings etc. I think I can see light at the end of this tunnel!

Over the summer months I have made some progress. Pace has slowed to a crawl due to the increased activities of summer and my kids being home during the day, but that is far from a complaint. When I have worked on the car it has been in short bursts, and it I have neglected to take pics, which I know takes some of the fun out of the thread. We fit the seats, harnesses, pedals, and all the aluminum. We mounted the engine and took measurements needed for harness and driveshaft. My use of the CTS-V style trans required some creativity for shifter mounting. Unlike F-body (Camaro/Firebird) style T-56s that mount the shifter right on the tail-housing of the trans, the CTS-V shifter is remote mounted, but with solid linkage. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/C0466D24-FF50-43EE-8CA8-4E7EFFAA56D6-4169-000006EE9639A8EC_zps6a6140ce.jpg The bad news, is with linkage at stock length, the shifter position is right were a chassis tube was (already removed in the pic). In a car Brunton built, they cut down the linkage to fit more like an F-body trans. We decided to move the chassis tube and create a mounting point to support the shifter. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/76DA2C53-A71C-4FEB-95F8-566615F8F4AA-4169-000006EE58680454_zpsd03252dd.jpg

Nice build! I kind of wish I had done the roller option now. Maybe I'd be enjoying driving mine by now. My M-spec has the "Classic" hood. I have the double tubes on the top of the hood area, so I hope that means I can avoid the coil relocation on my LS. Does that sound right? What is the box just behind the throttle body on the shelf (dress up to cover the ECU)? Great looking car! Hope you share more pics!

Congrats! I second the compliment of color choice! Very subtle and classy!

LOL I just came here to post this video! Youtube has pretty much replaced TV for me. Between the Drive, Motortrend, JayLenosGarage, topgear and Fastlanedaily chanels... I stay pretty entertained!

I keep opening this thread hoping for pics... But, I cannot blame you, I seldom take pics at track events. Busy enjoying.

After banging my head against the wall trying to locate the stock CTS-V shifter parts, I started actively shopping for a GTO or F-body style T-56. While speaking with a trans shop who specializes in Tremecs, I was discussing converting my CTS-V trans to a GTO tailhousing, and main shaft. Bad news is the GTO main shaft is nationally back-ordered... As a stroke of luck though, the guy had a stock CTS-V shifter set up!! I may still convert to the GTO tail housing down the road if I don't love the remote shifter, but at least this will get me going! I also located a company making a stronger CTS-V trans mount. Apparently the stocker is weak, and failure prone. They also make some shifter bushings I hope will firm up the Caddy shifter. Beyond finding parts I also got some garage time in. A friend who has been a huge help and motivator committed some hours over the weekend. We got the floor mounted Wilwood brake and clutch pedal mounted. We initially tried to mount them a little further toward the back of the car thinking it would provide more foot room, as the footwell narrows. But when I began to modify the firewall and hang the brake booster and master it was clear I had to move the pedals forward. It was basically a lot of time put in for minimal visible result, but, I'm glad to have progress toward a driving car! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/FD23708D-0DCF-4686-BA3D-EDE50A81C7BF-13880-00001164EFA0C4B2_zps9f508641.jpg The clutch pedal has a master mounted to it. Brunton makes a bracket for the Miata power booster mounting it backward and above the fire wall as the engine takes up the room where a brake MC and booster would typically go. They also provide a lever system that converts your forward brake pedal motion to backward. Space is at a premium in such a small chassis! Part of me would really like to try manual brakes, but the advise of experienced Stalker owners is to keep power brakes. I also installed a front rotor and caliper. I took out my Percy's Wheelrite tool to make some measurements at full travel. Another area of my research lately is into track wheel/tire set up. A lot of Lotus 7 replica's run 13" race wheels. With the Wilwoods, that is a tight fit, requiring pricey custom wheels. After a discussion w a race tire distributer I was shied away from 14", 16", and 17". He explained (used) race tires are much easier to come by in 13, 15, and 18" sizes. I don't mean to come across as too cheap, but my budget is running thin, and I want to be able to afford to finish and race this beast, this year! Anyway, I am looking at probably going with a 15x10 custom steel wheel from a manufacturer who just so happens to be right here in WI! Think oval track wheels. Obviously a 15x10 steel wheel is not the lightest option, but w sticky tires, I don't think it will hold me back as much as my weigh OCD would have me think... Plus, I could always pony up for some lightweight custom alloy wheels in a year or two if I still want to. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/46100A93-DFD7-4801-B003-089E2BD53471-13880-00001164F74B9332_zpsc9d70593.jpg And, yes, I know I should remove the plastic from the rotor and paper tag from the caliper prior to high speed use. LOL

This other match up came up in my youtube suggestions after the posted video:

Are you going to make a run over to St Petersburg and have a ride in the new M-spec?

I think the message is clear here... Someone needs to build a 550 bhp, AWD Seven!

Thanks X. I shot them an email after the drop down boxes failed me. BTW I ordered seats. Bad news is they also have a 6 week wait time...

I'm working to get all the major components on hand. I am pre-assembling pretty much everything. With the engine in I could get a feel for how much wiring harness I would need. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/298A5CC8-CCF0-4425-A8C2-C595D8B92560-4596-0000050FF1C16415_zpse63e2306.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/B88FE520-A6CB-46BB-8708-6FB2711D78DD-4596-0000050FF9459756_zps5cde1742.jpg I called up Speartech and spoke w John. After a lot of research I feel comfortable he will provide a harness what will be cleanly built to fit my simplistic (subtle) style, and have the know how to help me through any potential bump in the process. I am especially fond of his testing every harness on a real engine set up prior to ship out! Now the hard part, waiting for him to them to get through there back log of orders so they can build mine! I probably couldn't have picked a worse time of year to order, but I really wanted the engine/trans in before pulling the trigger. Gratuitous engine pics (that I don't think are in the thread yet): http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/70C4E67A-5515-4305-89F1-B99ED834426E-20365-00001A21B84C4828_zps41eb9a3e.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/32FA3C51-B4A0-4A2C-9B25-8DB3A4258AEB-20365-00001A21D23955FB_zps13ae39e4.jpg

I'm working through details, but I am told I should remove the flange from the trans, and go to a slip yoke. More on that to come. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/6EA97905-74EF-4444-87FD-CBE90894816B-4596-0000050FE195C060_zps39d3fa83.jpg BTW, I am currently searching for a stock first gen CTS-V shifter assembly and trans mount to try. I'm coming up empty and would appreciate any help in tracking them down for a reasonable price!

I also bolted up the LS1 F-body bell housing and CTS-V trans. I forgot to get action shots of it in the air, but I was able to swing the whole unit into place with the chassis still up on the stands! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/603FD14D-F6AF-4584-AE14-265DE62C1938-4596-0000050FC8D97E63_zps92e93e12.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/F42AFAF0-BFB8-423A-B090-9C6AF34921F1-4596-0000050FD1383619_zps2adab5d2.jpg Next I installed the new CTS rear center section (3.23 gears and G30 limited slip): http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/BE458D5B-66F7-4345-BED1-FE610F9715D6-4596-0000050FE878D9E4_zps82c00329.jpg And measured for the drive shaft: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/071BC488-9B66-4DA4-9399-6294C2447AB2-4596-0000050FD8E3F5CF_zps798fb0eb.jpg

I also got the steering shaft installed which gave me the opportunity to sit in the car, turn the wheel and make engine noises! It is starting to become a car. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/99BC23FF-3CD3-47E1-A5C8-E470ECE20FC0-4596-0000050FB7E0B59F_zpsc0c2fa5f.jpg I took the engine off the stand and installed the LS7 flywheel with OEM bolts that came w the kit. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E5C520F7-6F58-4EEE-B34E-1BE589821C4C-4596-0000050FC08FBA50_zpsbc807630.jpg Put on Brunton's engine stands: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/C99B89BE-21B1-4520-8286-E6098AC4CA0B-4596-0000050FAE480F17_zpsbcf98c55.jpg

I've been getting a bit done. I'll try to catch the thread up some. On the oil pressure adaptor I decided to spend the money for the nice engineering and machining of the Katech piece. The part that was on there site actually would not clear an LS3 intake. However, after emailing them I found out they had just produced a new part to clear the LS3 intake w no grinding needed. It was a more costly, but the machining was clearly more intensive. I just really want to keep the build as simple, OEM, and uncluttered as possible. So an OEM sending unit hidden under the intake worked for me. I intend to use a "Can-bus" gauges. These use signals from the factory sending units via the OBDII diagnostic port (more on that later). The Katech piece is machined beautifully and is sealed via O-ring! http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/6973F88C-E119-4491-9BB7-90D01A0C664E-20365-00001A21C8202FE6_zps4012a88f.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/890D4815-BCFF-43B3-A888-D70028C3BCCF-20365-00001A21BEB73839_zpsf50e0e2c.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/A90D08BA-7704-4B32-B6C3-AC439B958B7F-20365-00001A21A1E7BCAE_zpsb8d86659.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/888A1404-BF63-45A6-ADE2-ADCB00AED950-20365-00001A21DB267DF5_zpsd55119c2.jpg Sorry, the cell phone pics really do not do it justice.

WE HAVE A WINNER!!!:cheers:

With more gracious help from friends I have pulled the L92 from the stand, and bolted up the bell housing to align the oil pan. As luck would have it my torque wrench crapped out. I'm glad I didn't trust it because it wanted to put down way more than the spec 18 ft/lbs on the oil pan bolts! That would have been a bad day stripping treads out of the aluminum block! But I snugged them down so at least it is aligned, and I picked up 2 new torque wrenches the other day. A 1/2" drive to replace the failed unit and a smaller 3/8" in/lb that will be better suited for most smaller fasteners. Hope the old torque wrench was accurate when we were doing the rod bolts!! I think it was though, just the low torque settings that seem to be an issue... Then we put it back on the stand to install the corvette balancer. I skipped the trick of heating the balancer to make installation easier. That may have been a mistake as installation was quite difficult. In fact I ruined a specialized tool made to install LS balancers. After reading a bit on the inter-webs on how much torque to apply I found it to be 250 lb/ft! So I needed a cheater bar. Problem was the special tool required a large crescent wrench (as I didn't have a large enough open end wrench). So my usual cheater pipe would not fit. After some garage scrounging, we did find a suitable replacement that did fit over the wider wrench handle: http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/E754F687-F7A4-443C-9EFF-68B062350F56-15468-0000142E9BDA692E_zpsb88834eb.jpg Who knows what that super specialized, high performance cheater bar is? Lol I was not able to research a definitive answer on just when the balancer is on fully. This is how the balancer is in relationship to the flange now. Any input would be helpful here. Needless to say we put a lot of torque to it and even went to the old bolt method after stripping the tool (thankfully not the crank!). http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/28C7C2AD-1EAA-499B-A02F-DB0CD47E7B4D-15468-0000142E905C3DBF_zps40aca5f8.jpg In order to run the LS3 intake in reverse orientation, the oil pressure sensor at the rear of the valley cover needs to be removed. After much speculation on just how to remove the bung and machine the surface flat, I went crude and just saw-zalled and flapper wheeled it down. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/C91C7297-CC27-4F4D-92D4-8CA60A7954A4-15468-0000142E7F7C06B9_zps0da43254.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/685E86EE-239B-4E53-A78F-18E07AB41F25-15468-0000142E793460BB_zps90e44c92.jpg Now I have yet another decision to make. Katech makes a slick piece that bolts to the flat surface I have created, putting the stock sender at a 90 degree angle. In fact they already had an adaptor for the other LS engines, but the LS3 intake allows even less room than the others. Luckily for me they just released an LS3 specific part that is even more dramatically machined. The alternative is to drill and tap the cap over the oil filter or buy a pre tapped piece. I'm currently leaning toward ponying up for the Katech piece to keep the harness relatively stock routed, and using the cap by the filer for an aftermarket sender.

The L92 I am building was intended for an Escalade or Denali they used to build here in Janesville. All the power potential of the LS3 but cheaper! Though I did need the LS3 intake, oil pan, timing cover, balancer, and non-VVT cam. So it would be easier to start w a Vette LS3.

I was able to finish off the aluminum panels. My LS9 cam came in. I have been asked, why use a cam intended for a forced induction engine. The reason is it is similar in specs to an LS7 cam, and I have friends who have had success w LS7 cams in L92s. The LS7 cam is more aggressive in an actual LS7 though due to its 1.8 rockers (as apposed to the 1.7s on most LS engines). Oh, and it is $120 new as apposed to around $400 for the LS7 or most any LS cam... Can anyone explain that? LS9 cam specs: 211/230 .558/.552 (or.562 according to some internet sources...) 122.5 LSA LS7 cam specs: 211/230 .560/.557 120 LSA LS6 cam specs: 204/218 .551/.547 117 LSA I purchased a VVT delete kit from Texas Speed that has an LS2 front cover, cam sprocket, and cam sensor. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/9E3A333C-5B85-4A86-9DCC-D9E5A2F1FF2A-9880-00000CB6493728BC_zpsd1053d20.jpg I installed the oil pan w/out a gasket to align the front cover, and sprung for the GM sealant fro the corners. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/subtlez28/M-spec/9E3A333C-5B85-4A86-9DCC-D9E5A2F1FF2A-9880-00000CB6493728BC_zpsd1053d20.jpg