IDreamOfChapman

I haven't driven a seven back to back with / without but my Caterham has the same Quaife model in the ad, and none of my previous sports cars (MGB, 240z, Miata, 928) did. In a car that has enough power/torque to require judicious application of power coming out of corners and not just bury it, the LSD does help control the back end when you get wheelspin. It's not a magic bullet, but it does help you keep the car moving forward instead of sideways. On a car with not a ton of power (like my MGB) I don't think it would have made a lick of difference. On the 928 it could have helped. In my seven which is around 200 horsepower it is really easy to break the rear end loose and I can definitely feel the torque shifting back and forth between both rear wheels. Quaife is just a brand name - Caterham sold

I've tried but can't get my wife to drive ours, yet.

I could 3d print that solid works file...

At $85k I think it's also pretty reasonably priced for a turn key car with what appears to be a very high level of fabrication quality. Very interesting. I would love to see one in person.

So, I have one. I have the AEM digital version (that kind of looks analog) and it isn't super jumpy or otherwise hard to read. Mine doesn't ever show lean because the engine is properly tuned and...doesn't run lean or ever knock or ping. But the gauge is very responsive and steady so I am sure it would indicate a lean condition as soon as it was detected. You probably don't need us to tell you relying on an afr gauge to detect lean conditions isn't the right solution. I keep mine around just in case something goes wrong but honestly once your car is properly tuned then it shouldn't be an issue. The reason I installed it was to make sure my car wasn't running dangerously lean. Which, fortunately for me it isn't.

While I've never had the fun of driving around Spa, I did walk it after a Grand Prix. Eau Rouge is incredibly steep - so much that it is actually kind of hard to walk up it. It is a lot more dramatic than it looks watching it on TV.

I watch the market pretty religiously and honestly, in the USA this is probably the best place to find one. New cars come up pretty frequently. eBay has pretty regular listings as well.

with respect to the ear discomfort - I found that my wind deflectors simply moved the turbulence so that it hit me directly in the ear (not comfortable) no matter what I did. So I removed them completely - this moved the turbulence significantly forward. So, it is still turbulent, but my ear is much more comfortable.

Hi - so, I was watching this very fun Chris Harris video review of the new Supersport Caterham. http://drive.jalopnik.com/these-two-british-sports-cars-are-a-ton-of-fun-literal-510332792 I noticed that the shocks are inverted, with the valve body and spring perches on the upper end. Which would reduce the unsprung weight of the car. At least I am going to assume that is why Caterham has done this. So, this made me wonder: any reason why I could not just flip over my shocks? Anyone done this? Either way, I recommend watching this. It will make you go drive your car some more, as if you needed a reason to do that...

Forgive me if I missed this in an earlier thread... How did you settle on the length of your intake runners? Was this a purely packaging decision, or did you choose that length for other characteristics? Looks sweet, by the way.

I'd do that too. I tried, but in Oregon State Farm won't touch a Caterham so I ended up with American Collectors. The Hagerty rep (again, it's state by state) I spoke to for Oregon would not cover "pleasure driving," only driving to and from club events. This came as a shock to me since in California my Hagerty insurance had no problem with me driving anywhere I wanted within mileage limits.

On the insurance thing: specialty / collector car insurance like Hagerty does require a second "normal" car but it varies from state to state whether or not you can insure a Caterham as if it were a "normal" car with a mainstream insurer like State Farm. I'm not sure about California, as I don't live there. Someone else from California will surely chime in. Where I live in Oregon a mainstream insurer would not touch the car so I ended up with American Collectors which, like Hagerty, required proof of a daily driver which was not the Caterham for every licensed driver in my household. Registration was a breeze however.

Hi - this car was converted to a dry cell battery by the previous owner after this happened I am guessing. I don't have to worry about the ECU or any of the wiring, nothing is in the path of the acid besides the frame and footwell. It looks like it all pooled under the floormat and missed going under the frame rails along the bottom of the car. Also, it seems to have not really affected the powdercoating on the frame where it touched that. To be clear, this is not a liquid spill. It is the (possibly years old) dried out remnants of what was liquid that has long since evaporated and left behind a bunch of precipitant which I assume is probably still caustic, although not as much as the acid would have been. If it got inside the frame rails through the rivet holes I am not sure there is a lot I can do about that... I have a can of Gibbs, I will apply liberally.

I hope not. It has been there for heaven knows how long but it is completely, utterly dry at this point (so I am guessing a very long time).

Poking around the interior of my new (to me) Caterham, I have found what looks like the leftovers of a battery boiling itself dry and leaking down into the passenger footwell. Any ideas about what to use to clean this up? I tried diluting it with a damp sponge (no affect), and scrubbing it with water and a nylon scouring pad (also no affect). It is stubborn stuff.

So, I wanted to post a big THANK YOU to Klasik-69 here for all his help. It's been invaluable. Including sending me the ECU maps he paid good money for. I ended up making my own cable and got the same injectors to replace the ones on my car. I still need to take it to a shop to do a final tuning run just to make sure it is all good, but my AFR is fine and the car runs great (better than when I got it - the ass-dyno detects a clear bump in torque at around 2200 RPM compared to before). And I know I won't burn up my ECU by pulling too much current. So, THANK YOU and happy motoring! (note smiles )

It was pretty good, especially for what we usually get here in the USA. I wish they would keep the race going in a window for ALL the commercials, not just for some of them. As someone who travels a lot, I have gotten pretty spoiled by the BBC's F1 coverage (no commercials at all, a lot of pre- and post- race commentary, and ridiculous production values - some might argue this is why they can only afford to cover 1/2 of the races live now). However I have to give NBC Sports props here - I've been watching F1 since the 1980's and I think this is the best job so far of coverage in the USA that I have seen. Speed did a pretty good job there for a while, but they would always pre-emp F1 for something else if the sessions ran long or anything.

Thanks! I will contact the apex speed guys and start gathering parts... I'd appreciate the fuel map you have and I will PM you my email address. -Chris

OK - nevermind. I just found a wiring diagram so I will make a serial cable. Also, I am pretty sure it has to be a T2 since all the other Pectel ECUs look different (the wiring diagram manual has images of all the others and it only looks like a T2). Now I just need to find out where to get a current version of the software...

Awesome, thanks. I have access to tons of old computers, so I won't have a problem getting an old laptop with a serial port. On the AFR gauge: did you permanently install that? I already have an O2 sensor on my exhaust (it is on the collector just ahead of the muffler) which is already hooked in. It is in the only bung on the exhaust. On the pectel disc / serial cable: I don't suppose you know the wiring diagram for that cable? It sounds trivially easy to just make one. Also, where can you get the software? Can anyone identify the ECU model? All I know is it is supposed to be a Pectel unit. It's stuck to the firewall and it kind of looks like the Pectel T2 images I see on the web (see attached). It does have the 1/4" jack on the dashboard for connecting a laptop if that helps narrow it down. I do have a pressure regulator on my fuel rail. I will get a pressure gauge and put it on there. Thanks! I am sure more questions will be forthcoming.

Hi all - new member here. I just bought what you might call a new-old-stock 2002 Caterham Roadsport which has a Rocky Mountain Motorsports-supplied Zetec w/ Pectel ECU and Jenvey ITB's (the 205 horsepower one, which I think is identical to the one this thread is about). * correction - they are TWM ITB's with a Jenvey airbox * The car was very rarely driven and has 890 miles total on it since it was delivered in 2002. Anyhow - I just went out and measured the impedance of the injectors on the motor and they are 2.2 Ohms. I am guessing then I need to replace these with a different part. So, I was wondering, can you tell me: 1- What Bosch part # did you use here? EV1? EV14? Something else? 2- I assume that I will need to take the car in to be re-tuned after replacing the injectors. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can take it near Portland, Oregon? 3- Should I refrain from driving the car until I take care of this? I don't want to burn out the ECU! (I've only had the car two weeks, though, and so you can imagine how hard this will be for me) 4- Researching this on the web, I see that some people install an injector resistor box in-line instead of changing them. Any major downsides to this approach? Would this also affect how the car runs / require a re-tune? (The car actually runs extremely well right now, I am kind of surprised how well it pulls from low RPM's given the type of intake it has). Thanks for any advice / experience anyone can lend. I am not at all new to cars and hot rodding but I am pretty new to dealing with ECUs and injector tuning (old school carb guy). I will go read up on this separately as well... Thanks!