drew...

chrisburg, check your PM

Dave, Once you were finished with the corner weights did you check ride height at all four corners (level ground to frame near each wheel)? I have my car set-up at a 5" frame height, with driver, in the front corners and 5.75" in the rear but I have never corner weighted it. I am curious as to how well corner weight and ride height correlate with these cars. Drew...

Tom - will not be able to make it this year but it is on the bucket list to join the crew for a Fourth of July weekend at NJMP - maybe 7/7/17... Bruce - I may end up going that route but there is a young local guy doing wraps that I am going to give a shot to and see what he can do on the stripes vstryker - thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for

I am considering adding a double stripe(s) from nose to tail on my S3 - I just did a quick search and it looks like there are a few SV's with double stripes but I did not see any S3's. If someone does have an S3 with stripes could you tell me the width of the stripes and the width of the space between the stripes? I think I have said stripes way too many times.... Thanks

Bruce - I have PM'd you. Thanks

Before you change the tie rod adjustments take a look at the steering knuckle just above the rack and pinion. First loosen the two bolts at the 'D' section of the steering shaft (directly in front of the cowl near the pedal box). This will allow you to compress the column. Then remove the lower knuckle bolt where it connects to the steering rack. Mark the current position then pull the knuckle off the rack and adjust one spline and reassemble. If you are off approximately 10 degrees this should straighten it out. If you need less than one spline you will need to adjust as suggested by others.

Robert - would you be willing to sell the CF winglets separate from the rest of the car? PM me please.

SK400 - Can you post the "special instruction sheet" from Caterham regarding the speedo ground?

Dave - PM sent

Toedrag - if you loosen the other bolts enough to create a 10mm gap between the driveshaft and flange you will effectively "shorten" your bolt enough to get it to clear the bearing ear, right? Or am I looking at this wrong?

Randy - you've just solved an issue I've had since I lowered the floors on my Caterham. I have always had the spa mirrors mounted directly to the windshield uprights (Chris @ Sevens & Elans adaptors) but with the lowered floors they are directly at eye level. They act like the big A-pillars with airbags on todays cars blocking your sight. Mounting to the deflectors is a great idea. Thanks! For track days I remove the windshield and switch out just the spa mirrors to the posts already mounted on my short kick-up wind deflector.

Is the failed engine mount on the header side of the motor? The outer surfaces in your photo look as though heat is likely part of the failure.

MNLotus As stated above - remove the shift knob (if I remember correctly there is a set screw holding it in place), remove the parking brake grip and pull the brake up as far as you can. Move both seats forward as far as they will go and pull up on the rear of the tunnel cover - it should come up and give enough clearance to slip it over the brake handle. Drew...

From a Cycle World article "You don’t straddle the rear-drive Slingshot; you sit way back in it, side by side with your passenger in waterproof bucket seats, and your posteriors are only 11.9 inches off the pavement." "Only 11.9 inches"? That's 3 times higher than I sit in the Caterham with lowered floors!

Should have stated optimal set-up is rear at .75" higher than the front.