FE07

Posted June 12, 2005 The thickness info is AP vented Front disc 18 mm thick new replaced at 16.4mm Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Above is what I found online. That is all the guys who inspected mine wanted when they signed my car off. Jim

Demoray, I did my inspection quite a while ago and unfortunately I’m not sure if the gas station I used still does inspections. I would tell you to stay away from a larger franchise type of place like NTB, Merchants etc…. I don’t know anywhere to send you down in Millersville. I looked online. Try- https://97automotive.com. Just looks like somewhere that may work. Call them first and ask if they have any problem inspecting a Caterham. Hope it helps.

My suggestion for dealing with MD red tape is to talk to some of your car guy friends and find an inspector who is "car friendly". I registered mine about 9 yrs ago but all my inspector wanted to know was the min. thickness of the front brake rotors. I did take it one place first where I thought they would happily inspect it and they gave me MULTIPLE BS reasons why they couldn't inspect it. Jim

Legs, That mint looks nice! Look forward to seeing the build. Jim

Great seeing everyone over the weekend again and chasing each other on track. It's always nice to see people who have come down just to look at the cars and decide if they want to pull the trigger on a purchase. Love what they've done to turn 1. It's now basically makes turns 1 & 2 into one big sweeping turn with a blind track out over turn 2. The weather on track held out great. I left around 3:00 on Sunday and 8 miles west of the track, it was pouring and really windy. Thanks to Mike and Tom as always for organizing! Hope to see everyone again next year. Jim

I'll be rolling in early Friday AM. Look forward to seeing everyone.

All signed up and ready to go. Crawled under the car to nut & bolt and found 6 rivets missing from the floor on drivers side!! Repaired with some stainless rivets instead of the aluminum ones that were there. That should fix it but I'll keep an eye on it. The harness won't keep me in the car if the floor falls out. See everybody Friday AM.

Well- not sure what it was but it seems to have resolved with driving the car around. Might have been the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel and driving it around freed it up? Thanks for the suggestions.

Guys- got in the car today for a blat and couldn't get the car into reverse. Lots of grinding gears. The clutch is hydraulic. When I last had it with George Alderman in Wilmington,DE- he adjusted the clutch so that it had about 2-3 inches of pedal travel in total directly off of the firewall. It's been this way for the past 4 years. Made it super easy to heel/toe quickly. I have noted recently some difficulty at times getting into 1st and- have to push down more firmly on the shifter to get into reverse. Checked fluid- maybe 2 mm down. Adding fluid didn't make any difference. I know there is some adjustment for the push rod into the clutch master cylinder. How would I know if it's something with the slave cylinder? Thanks!

Guess just luck of the draw. I had multiple problems with EGR coolers and catalytic convertors on my Touraeg. All covered under warranty however. I know multiple people who have owned Cayenne diesels without those issues. Who know's? Engine is the same as the VW although the trans is different and have never heard of any issues with that on the Cayennes. It pulls my trailer and 7 like they're not there. Probably about 4,500 lbs.

Recently bought a '16 Cayenne Diesel with 95K miles which was CPO'd. That means 2 years of extended warranty from Porsche. I previously had a Touraeg TDi which went back to VW with the diesel recall. Both tow great and and the diesel gets close to 30 mpg. Should last for quite a long time. I'd look for a VW Touraeg TDi as well. Will be less expensive than a Porsche, drive similarly and with the higher end models, be just as nice inside. BAT has had quite a number of Cayenne diesel's within the past 1-2 years. Touraeg TDi's as well. Can at least get an idea of what's out there.

Just like the second youtube video shows. That's how you can add in a bolt in option and adjust it to fit.

You don’t need sewn in ends on the harnesses or clip in ends like Cbuff. If you buy them without ends you can simply add bolt in end plates to attach them anywhere. It’s tight on the sides of the seat. No problem with shoulder harnesses. You do need to carefully check lengths of the harnesses.

Vlad, I use these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=SAB-CCS622F-UN They're formula car harnesses. I've forgotten what your seats look like. If you've got a hole for a crotch strap, then you don't need these. (although you still could use them) If you've got the leather seats like I do, then you simply pull the crotch straps between the top and bottom sections in the back and use them like that. A little more difficult to put on but you don't have any metal by those important parts down there! Looks like you've got composite seats with holes. Not to make things more complicated but if you look at the pic of you driver seat you'll note that the harnesses don't come through the holes equally. The left is splayed left towards your shoulder and the right more towards your neck. It's due to the placement of the mounts for the harnesses. Not really ideal with a HANS device. If you're interested I can send you a pic of the adapter I made for the harnesses so they're appropriate for a HANS. Jim

Mike/Tom- Went to Motorsport reg site to sign up. Definitely plan to be there but you never know what could cause the need to cancel. Motorsport reg says "non members-No refunds" I know it hasn't been this way in the past. Any updates/thoughts? Would just hate to register now and then something changes 3 months from now. Having asked all this- look forward to seeing everyone! Jim