toedrag

Congrats, jevs! You've clearly got some fab skills; I'm curious to see what you do to the Stalker. If you get bored with the NA engine, how about putting your fab skills to work on a custom S/C setup for yourself? That'll land you another cover, I imagine. :driving: Do your research on the GM Hot Cam that comes with their crate LS3 480. The opinions I found suggested that there may be better aftermarket cams out there that will be more streetable & will make more power.

That one should be mine; so you know where I stand. :hurray: Do it. If you ever get bored with it, there is no hope for you.

They'll probably need some dual 15" wide rear wheels, like Batman's Tumbler to put down the power http://www.hackolog.com/content-img-00/batman-tumbler-built-with-accuracy-6.jpg

subscribed

What's the black tank just behind the front suspension? Is that the coolant expansion tank? Looks too small to be a dry sump tank and too big for a catch can. on another note...looks like there is plenty of room up front for an intercooler...:driving:

These are the two that convinced me: Crash Test without HANS: Crash Test with HANS: Note that those are both done at only 42 mph...

Congrats!! Have you started building your trophy room yet?

Thx for posting. I love John O. Sending comment to fcc.gov/comments now.

Meh, I'm a believer in DIY alignment after I spent a day experimenting by visiting 4 different alignment shops (Firestone, Sears, NTB, and a dealer I think) to get their free alignment reading on my daily driver a couple years ago. It may or may not surprise you that I received 4 vastly different readings for each and every measurement. And no, I don't think my alignment was actually changing while I was driving around. After I finished my DIY adjustments, I should have gone back through the same shops to see who was closest to mine, but I don't think I did. My methods were shamelessly copied from the interwebs: camber gauge is a piece of aluminum angle, a craftsman digital level, and a framing square (to establish the 0 deg reference point at each wheel). Camber really could not be easier to measure; it takes like 1 minute per wheel. For toe, I use the good ol' string method & a digital caliper, and it does take me a while to get the car strung up b/c I'm a bit OCD about it. I haven't messed with caster yet. Back to the QuickTrick, I question why in their description they state "The QuickTrick gives you the ability to check your alignment at any time and any place (no lifts or ramps) to make sure you have not knocked your tires and wheels out of alignment."....you can do that already with a few different methods...DIY style using the previously described methods or even Sears can do this. I was in & out of Sears in 5 minutes with the car on the ground the whole time, but as stated above, I question their accuracy that day (not that they are all bad; could have been an equipment calibration issue or user error) With the QuickTrick, for toe, it also looks like only the tires on the same axle are measured at the same time. It seems like this introduces front to rear toe differences that you would have caught had you used the string method where all 4 wheels are referenced to the car's centerline simultaneously.

Thx for posting that! I'm guessing/hoping that the Minehart solution is similar to this since I don't have the skills to fabricate something like this.

Wow. Just wow. I hope you make some videos of your races. If so, I'm pretty sure I'll be subscribing to your YouTube channel

Thx, xcarguy! I've seen those shots before, but I didn't realize it was this car. That's good news if the Mineharts found a way to put the shifter in the proper place when using T-56 Magnum. You can see from the following picture from your link that the shifter wants to pop up behind the lower part of the dash, but in the completed car, it's where you'd expect it: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=24577&g2_serialNumber=2 http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=6352

Thx for the pictures! Excellent! Can you confirm if it's a T-56 Magnum, or is it a used/rebuilt T-56?

Thx for this; I've seen the Improved Racing LS pans but not these yet. Research commencing...

I've ordered the same config. If you by chance went with the Magnum T-56 close ratio, where did the shifter end up? Might you have a picture? I've gone back & forth on the dry sump. If your track(s) has any left-hand sweepers, that seems to be the risky bit on the LS-engines. Aviaid & others have some reasonable scavenge-only systems where you retain the stock pump to provide pressure.

MB7, what powertrain did you opt for?

Congrats! That is tasty. :drool: I've always liked the black & white color scheme. Very excited to see more pictures. Hard top with the wing - nice choices. You'll also need to find someone with a stormtrooper costume and do a fun photo shoot. :jester: alla the Stormtrooper Exige http://www.wranglerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=18616&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1272558815

Man, this makes me a bit antsy (okay, that's a SLIGHT understatement)...I've got a call into Scott to get an idea of my XL kit's delivery date. :willy_nilly:

Wow. Seems they are trying to reach a different buyer pool. Someone will buy it. Where is the branding campaign that justifies the gouging...err...totally reasonable higher price? How is this Duratec nearly as much coin as a GM LS7 v8 that has 2x+ the power? It boggles my brain. At least when Lotus Cars tried this in the recent past, they had both ludicrous pricing and a ludicrous story, but you see where that plan ended up.

Thx, Randy. I understand things are in a wait & see mode. Thx for the add'l info. In TX, I was originally thinking the option for windscreen + wipers ($2.4k) was required. But, I double checked the requirements for TX registration, and wipers are only required if a windshield is present (windshield is not required in TX). Sorry for the confusion on my part.

I love that they are trying to do something new, and I appreciate the design efforts. But, I'm skeptical about its success, which makes me sad because it seems like an innovative car. Looking at the Launch Edition pricing, for the buyers who need it to be US street legal & trackable, it looks like it easily gets into $50k (with 20% VAT removed and approx $2k added for shipping). I dig the interior for street use - very clean - but for track use, the displays don't seem very track friendly. I'm not a naysayer of all digital dashes, mind you. It's just that the layout on the E10 seems a little off; the display behind the wheel seems a little small, and the larger one in the middle seems like it's too far out of the driver's periphery. Is the tub/frame very serviceable? I personally haven't worked with carbon fiber, but I don't weld yet either (for the case of a traditional 7/locost). If/when I have frame damage on this or a 7/locost, I'd have to find someone to fix it. It seems like it's easier/cheaper to weld new steel tube vs finding someone willing to work on the CF frame of the E10, but I could be wrong? In terms of driving, will it be fond of snap oversteer like the Elige/Atom? Or on the other hand, with the front anti-roll bar plus both front & rear wings, will it want to understeer? Or, have they achieved nirvana and made a truly balanced mid-engined car? I'm surprised to see only a front anti-roll bar listed; hopefully, it's adjustable. If not, it would seem strange to have adjustable dampers as an option, but not have adjustable front/rear roll bars. Taking all this into account, plus what I presume is limited parts availability and the inflated part pricing due to UK sourcing (unless there are standard components I can buy locally?), it's too much risk for me personally, and it seems like there are better values out there. Again, it pains me to reach this conclusion because I like the innovation, and I realize that there is a fair bit of room for wrong assumptions on my part with the above analysis. This is armchair quarterbacking at its finest, and I promise I'm not trying to be a stick in the mud.

Sounds good!

Great videos! Your low oil pressure has me thinking now...I'm eager to see the difference after adding the Accusump. On paper, I'm leaning toward just going the dry sump route from the beginning instead of adding it later, but maybe one of those hybrid/less expensive approaches that keeps the stock pump for pressure and uses an external scavenge pump w/a modified pan to eliminate the issues at the pickup tube. Admittedly, I don't fully understand why one would require an external pump for pressure, unless the system to provide more pressure than the stock pump was capable of. Obviously, I'm quite new to the world of dry sumps and am still researching/learning.

Thx! just sent him a PM

Thx for the warm welcome, guys. I'm only about 20 min from DFW; we can definitely meet up. Thx for the pointer to the Yahoo group, and I think I tried Registering on the Gallery but never received the confirmation that an Admin had activated the account. I'll document the build both here and there.