jevs

I already placed my order because they are having a 15% off sale. I used the gauges recommended by Brunton except I customized them to my own liking and added turn signal and high beam indication to the speedometer and the shift light option to the tach. Anyway, without thinking about it, I ordered the 160 MPH speedo that was recommended. However, I know of at least one car with my motor that is hitting 170+ on track. I am wondering if I should change my order to a 180 MPH or 200 MPH speedometer? If so, which one? See pic for the three options in the style I came up with.

Yeah, I don't want to spend that much money. I plan to buy a ~$150 12 circuit wiring harness and keeping this car as simple and light as I can.

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/indicator-toggle-switch-on-off-on This in a version that was momentary could do me some good. I am planning to due one of the timer setups for self cancelling since mechanically there is not a good way to get self cancelling in my car.

If you short the wires at the switch and it works, then it is the switch.

They make some that look like sunglasses with foam around the edges to seal around your eyes. They don't look too bad. I hate stuff flying in my eyes. I will have to wear something.

I have some better ideas, but I have come to the conclusion that I need the seats in and the steering wheel to know what is going to be best ergonomically. Little things like this can make or break the enjoyment of driving around town. I doubt I will do that style toggle in the dash.......stay tuned I suppose.

This is an old thread, but there was never a picture of this mounted to the dash. I am trying to figure out how I am going to do my blinkers and stuff. I would like to see how this looks if anyone has a picture or link.

I am thinking a two pole switch will be fine with this car the more I look at it. The alternator charge wire can just be ran to the battery side of the switch. The exciter will be killed as soon as you switch the disconnect. This way there is no spike or issues to worry about unless the battery gets thrown from the car. In that case I doubt you will be too worried about it, and the wire that would have been discharged to the resistor will be detached as well anyway most likely. The location is still tricky. "Can be reached from the outside of the car", could easily be the dash with a sticker on the outside of the roll cage next to it.

Is it supposed to be reachable by the driver? In that pic it is, but I don't drive from that side? My battery is on that side though with no reason to route it to the drivers side. That could also make removing the scuttle more challenging or have to unscrew the switch and risk damaging the paint each time. Passenger side dash would be ideal, but I don't know if that would pass tech. Scott says it will for NASA, but not sure about others. SCCA would be important.

I want my switch to pass tech for racing in case I ever want to. However, I also want it to be in a nice location that is suitable for street use if possible. Mine will kill everything and I do not want it removable and it will not be shutoff typically. I am doing something else for the ignition/theft prevention.

Anyone got a wiring diagram to show how the alternator in an LSX powered car is hooked up and how it would be attached to the other two terminals of the disconnect switch?

That is the style I am looking at. I have found a few options so far. I don't really want to put mine in the back. No real reason to run battery cables all the way back there on my car.... I found some nice 4 pole ones (without removable switch), but it really rests on the dash vs. exterior to decide.

I probably would not use a black oxide. It does not look like they have one in that length zinc plated. Maybe someone else does though.

My battery will be in front of the scuttle on the passenger side. Would it be acceptable to have the cut switch on the dash with a sticker on the front passenger side cage tube? This could be easily reached by corner worker and driver, but it is not on the outside. If so, could it be anywhere in that yellow square, or would it have to be more towards the right side?

Need pictures of ones in approved locations on sevens I guess. Will have to do more searching... I prefer not to have a removable key one. Also, I would want a 4 lug for alternator circuit.

Where would SCCA etc. require this disconnect to be located on a Seven type car?

Should I install a battery cutoff switch? If so, where should I put it (Stalker XL Classic)? What type should it be? Or, should I just wait until I think I am going to do something that requires it?

Hmm, that is a pretty long hitch. I wonder if a bike rack or one of the cargo carriers would be long enough to clear the body......will have to do a little research. I will most likely do this though. With no storage, a hitch will come in handy. I kind of like the looks of the Stalker with no cage or hoops I just wouldn't feel safe I guess being in such a fast and light car.

Simple enough. I can buy that receiver tube for a little over $12 and I probably have a couple pieces of square tube for the 45 degree pieces. http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-49506-Receiver-Finish/dp/B001GN1F6S/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=10QWCZW9G44EKPNV6S1K You think that is strong enough with no other reinforcements? You planning to pull a small trailer, or use it for a carrier etc.? Any pictures out there of a completed car with one welded on like that? Curious to see how it looks overall. Thanks!

I would like to see more. Was that a bought hitch that was welded on, or fabricated from scratch one? Wish I knew that was something I could ask him for. Oh well, good excuse to try out my new welding helmet.

Did that come with a hitch welded on or did you add it? Would like to see more of that. That is something I have been thinking about needing. You could have just drilled through both sides of the U channel from one side Or maybe I didnt understand what I read....long day.

Yes

Front suspension is coming together smooth. I don't have any shocks yet, so moving to the rack and tie rods next. I went ahead and pressed in the bushings on the rear rockers while I was doing the fronts.

Answer to the wheel hub fitment: "Yeah they should be fine. Some slide right in, and sometimes they need some influence." Mine fronts fit very nicely! I like the metal bushings and inserts on the rockers we have better than the old M-spec style with delrin. We can leave them in for powder coat. Just have to bake out the little bit of grease used to press them in so it does not turn liquid, run out and ruin the powder.

Bushings all press in easily with a vice and smooth jaws....I just did mine. I did put a little grease on to help them slide. Smoother than a hammer and presses them in square getting started.