breezy7

The article is about Europe, don't know if it is the same the USA. https://www.motor1.com/news/249934/caterham-european-deliveries-q3-2019/ It was just a few years ago that Simon Nearn thought the 7 had to be replaced with a modern car and coudn't continue in its present form. Sales seem to be proving him wrong. It is worth a lookjust for the pictures that go with the article, I now have a new computer desktop picture.

At the top of the page click on "Thread Tools” and then “Subscribe to this Thread” which will take you to a page that allows you to choose how you want to be notified. It will say "Notifications" and you can pick how often to be notified.

Not as active or as detailed as Miatanet http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum/

Are you using the stock ECU and PATS? If so and the problem only happens when starting and runs fine once running I would look at the PATS. It controls the injectors during starts and is out of play once running. A similar problem was fixed here post #39: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?11799-Ongoing-electrical-problem-anyone-want-a-challenge!-)/page4

Some more discussion here:http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?11803-Texas-quot-bans-quot-Seven-clones&highlight=texas%20registration

From https://gearpatrol.com/2018/04/06/modern-sports-car-benchmark-caterham-seven-history/ "The Obama administration passed the Low Volume Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Act of 2015, which opened regulations, making it easier for companies like Caterham, who produced only around 500 cars over the past couple of years. Recently, the Trump administration has been trying to tighten those regulations, making it tough for manufacturers like Caterham to sell cars in the U.S. To sell cars here, Caterham has to work loopholes in the laws, in that they ship the chassis and parts over — everything minus the engine — to a dealer network here in the States. The dealers then assemble the cars and drop in engines sourced here in America, which tend to be Ford 1.6-liter Sigma or 2.0-liter Duratec engines. Should regulations tighten further, dealers would no longer be allowed to build the cars, placing that burden on the customer."

Build guide from 2014:https://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/Guides/guide.pdf

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/caterham-ceo-‘i’d-love-produce-aluminium-chassis-seven

Maybe some answers here: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/ https://forum.miata.net/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=139 https://www.flyinmiata.com/FMSV/

How close is the AF gauge to the PATS transponder? Since it only affects starting I would think it points to the PATS system, according to Ford after the engine is running for 1 second PATS is out of the picture. That may explain why it won't start with the gauge connected but runs fine with it connected once the engine is running. The gauge seems to be the common factor in your problem, I say that assuming when the oxygen sensor is disconnected the gauge is not operating. Are you using a different oxygen sensor then what came with the engine? I think mine was a 3 or 4 wire sensor, maybe a non standard sensor is an issue. Is there a reason for wanting the AF gauge? Is it for tuning reasons? Could you run the AF gauge through a switch ? Disconnect it during start then switch it on once running. It hides the problem but doesn't fix it.

Why not use the value of the circuit breaker that is installed? I wouldn't use the value of a different car.

I don’t think there is a Zetec specific wiring diagram for your car. The Zetec was a US only engine so Caterham USA made their own wiring harness to mate with the Caterham chassis harness. The diagram you have is accurate for the chassis. I’ve attached a PDF I got for Caterham USA when I built my car but it seems to be a diagram of how to build the harness not a wiring diagram and probably not much help. I think Jon at the old Caterham USA did the conversion to run the Zetec so maybe he could help if anyone knows how to contact him. There was an engine supplement for Zetec installation but I don’t remember if it included a wiring diagram or just what connections to make between the wiring harness and various components, maybe someone on the forum has one, mine went with my car when I sold it. Wiring Zetec.pdf

Do you have access to an OBDII scanner? Behind the dash in the area of the steering column should be a OBDII connector. See if you have any codes displayed on the scanner. There are two more components in your fuel delivery system, the fuel pump control module located under the transmission tunnel arm rest. The PCM varies the operating cycle of the fuel pump through the control module based on the signal it gets from the fuel pressure sensor in the fuel rail. The inertia switch is involved too, it powers the fuel pump control module.

One for Firefox:https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/?src=search

If you use Chrome for your browser there is a fix for the problem. It is a third party extension I found reading on a Miata site : https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj?utm_source=gmail

J. Geils had a S2 Lotus 7. According to a Peter Egan article he also ran a restoration and race car shop.

Does the solenoid rub with the nose installed? There is a bit of weather strip that the hood rests on where it meets the nose so you could try to put on a second strip or a thicker version. Another possibility is to make a bumper of RTV on top of the solenoid. I put a rubber cork on the plastic timing belt cover that pushed up the nose enough to stop the rubbing. I would avoid using the insulation on the hood, it probably will rub through quickly and you don't need it trapping anymore heat under the hood. The intention might have been to insulate the pedal box and passenger foot well area or the transmission tunnel if it came without the factory insulation kit. These sites may help in the future http://www.thecaterhamproject.com/index.html http://danielfrye.com/

Looking a the the wiring diagram the turns signal runs through the hazard switch (insert favorite Lucas joke here). These posts may give you some direction #5 in particular http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?8819-turn-signals-and-hazards-stopped-working&highlight=turn+signals http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?10401-Flasher-Relay-Location

Not a lot of choices in 14" tires but this a good option. I had them on my 7 and currently on my Miata. $100 rebate through Tire Rack . https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?customSizeSearch=true&autoMake=Mazda&autoYear=1993&autoModel=Miata&autoModClar=&width=195%2F&ratio=60&diameter=14

Not my car, the picture is from Caterham's website.

Much improved from earlier Zetec set up.

A left over from the Alpine project http://www.autoevolution.com/news/front-engine-caterham-coupe-model-considered-partner-needed-first-114211.html#

You might try asking at the CA. Caterham site:http://californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/index.php

From the West coast RHD, 5-speed, De Dion Rear, Kent Crossflow, Toneau, Soft Bits Sun Top, Full top w/doors, Runs Great ! $ 22,500 http://californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/showthread.php?2549-For-Sale-1988-Caterham-Super-7

Caterham announced another special edition http://www.topspeed.com/cars/caterham/2017-caterham-seven-harrods-special-edition-ar174767.html