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Got it thanks! Downloaded it saves as 6.5mB not sure but we may need 4k photos for the magazine. Any other 2026 NJMP photos you are particularly proud of, not already posted here / saved by Croc, please post here for review. Once final photos are selected, I'll reach out to ask you for 4k photos. Cheers! Steve

Just now see this, could be great fun. I haven't done the holiday shopping trip to NYC in many years. From what I've read, this is a must do motorsports event. NYC is timely as Paris might be problematic. Please post when a date for a USA7s meet up is set. Steve

Home in Austin after almost 4,000 miles drive in the RV. Great trip and the USA7s NJMP event was so much fun even as a spectator. Many many thanks to Croc, Tom and others for such a great event! It was really fun to finally meet all those folks who I’ve only known thru the webpage. Placing a name with a face and smile, so much fun with the Caterham and Lotus Sevens community. I’ll be back next year hopefully w/ a Caterham. Cheers! Steve 🙂

Hoping to make it to spectate, meet all the USA7s folks and see their Sevens in person, who I've only met on-line. I have family obligations in Cleveland and Pittsburgh so NJMP is not that much of a stretch from Austin. Just wish the price of diesel would drop a bit. Cheers! Steve

Second checking diff oil for volume and metal content! LSD? I'm going thru a similar noise diagnostic process on my 2008 Roadsport S3 Ford LSD.

Well pictures from a couple days ago, a shake down run thru the hill country with the Lotus Owners of Texas. It was nice to get the S3 back on the road after a lengthy brake and suspension refresh; some 250 miles on the day testing the limits of car and passenger on a beautiful but oppressively hot day. Car ran very well. Coolant temp generally behaved holding 80-85C but quickly hit 95-100C+ in stalled traffic or with aggressive pulls. Oil pressure 2 bars at idle but 6 bars underway (Mobil 1 15W-50). Driver and passenger were envious of the Lotuses (Loti?) all having air conditioning. Cheers! Steve

Revisiting this very helpful thread, as I'm dealing with the exact same trouble shoot. Thanks everyone! Cheers! Steve

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/176542-duratec-spark-plug-gap/ i seam to remember 0.025” for these plugs which I run in both my 2005 CSR 200 and 2008 Duratec but the above is the only ref. I can find while out and about. Will find actual ref. when I get back to shop tomorrow. I’m curious in the difference in threaded length in the plugs pictured? Cheers! Steve

Excellent...thanks for making these available Simon! Cheers!

@wddfourI see this post is still active / you're still looking for seats. I have a set of OEM (#77670) cloth seats w/ runners and adjustable headrests from my 2008/9 Roadsport S3 Duratec you're welcome to. They are in good/fair condition and quite comfortable, the cloth cover (black w/ yellow piping) is good but the inner foam is disintegrating w/ age requiring constant vacuuming of the degraded foam pieces and particles. They could be "refreshed" by a good auto upholstery shop or used as is. I removed them to install new leather seats of the same design. FWIW the seats / headrests fit w/ the roll bar w/ cross braces. Pickup preferred as shipping is problematic. PM me if interested. Cheers! Steve

Ouch! Just now catching up on this. I had followed much of the original build etc. But now see "the rest of the story." CarYenta I feel your pain. So much effort went into this car. Interesting "opportunities / project" if it can be bought right.

Want to buy one Avon 195/50R15 ZZS (new or used) for the spare on my 2008 Roadsport S3. My current spare w/ age / extensive cracking / sun damage doesn't inspire confidence, it's time to get a proper spare, ideally to match the four corners. Was hoping someone may have one used or NOS Avon ZZS but may have to go the NOVA route whenever they become available stateside. I've had to use the spare a surprising number of times and it fits the original "7" look I've enjoyed since seeing my first 7 in the 70's. Cheers! Steve

Bump...still available. Cheers! Steve

Not to hijack the thread, but @williamwashere, another Texas Caterham owner here in Austin. Between Austin and Houston, likely no shortage of folks willing to help unload your kit, try to answer any build questions. ETA Houston? Cheers! Steve

PM sent.

👍 yes

Wow, it has got to be a tough day for Croc! Saying good by to the CSR. The buyer is getting one heck of a car and spares, etc. Can we expect to see the buyer at NJMP in October? Mike you mention CSR - three iterations...are the differences reviewed / summarized anywhere? That would be very informative for the new CSR 200 / 260 talk group. Cheers! Steve

Mike, does this mean you are "Cat-less" (operational in US)? How does that work? Cheers! Steve

Still Available! ROLL BAR KIT S3 TRACKDAY METRIC CHASSIS Lower 48 only, pickup / possible delivery. Cheers! Steve

What is the nature of your required maintenance and repairs? I'll ask around for Houston but there is a very good independent Lotus mechanic here in Austin who I suspect may be willing to take on a Caterham. PM any details / questions. Cheers! Steve

For Sale: 30RB04AK ROLL BAR KIT S3 TRACKDAY METRIC CHASSIS As purchased new from Caterham Parts 03/2022 w/ bolt kit (327.61 British Pounds + shipping) for my 2008 Roadsport S3 Duratec, never fitted. Back Story: FedEx/US Customs "lost" the shipment from Caterham Parts 03/2022, some 3 months later, a couple days after Caterham filed a claim, the roll bar and order was delivered to my house in a very badly beat up box. By then I had already modified my existing roll bar and didn't need the bar from Caterham. Asking $440 OBO, your chance to avoid price increase (now 411 BP vs. 327BP in 2022), no shipping, no tariffs! see attached pictures. Possible free delivery? I'm not exactly keen on shipping such a large ungainly item for fear of damage or loss. I have several road trips scheduled and could deliver it: 6-16 June - Texas to Western PA via Indiana and Ohio July, Sept., Oct. - trips to Wisconsin, Utah, New Jersey Please PM with any questions. Cheers! Steve

Inquiry to the collective wisdom of the CSR folks: What Duratec do I have and how to find out more about it? Focus 2.0L, Ranger 2.3L, block / head? 2005 CSR 200 engine number: YDG0001 (no bar code found on front of engine (like my 29/05/08 2.0L Duratec) or rear bell housing mounting area as ref in the Ford/Mazda engine assembly chart) Factory (Cosworth?) applied seal on front cam cover bolts: "000133 Cosworth" who might I contact / may keep records of the build / Cosworth applied seal / number? The block measures slightly taller than my 2008 2.0L Duratec, so 2.3L consistent w/ my understanding of 2005 CSR 200? The intake ports and throats to the valves etc. are massive compared to my 2.0L Duratec but only have 5 bolts retaining the large intake plenum (no studs shouldered and non-shouldered as pictured / called for in Cosworth Duratec documentation, or seven bolts as per my 2008 Duratec) Very large (compared to 2008 2.0L Duratec) intake plenum w/ cast individual internal trumpets) / one throttle body no multiple throttle bodies or roller barrels as per Cosworth Duratec documentation CSR 260. A search of build documentation received w/ the car does not provide anything other than 2005 CSR 200. I've reviewed the cache of CSR documents uploaded to the USA7s site but may have missed something. Any questions / words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Steve IMG_8292.MOV

FWIW / YRMV (ref: 2008 S3 Duratec) I went thru a similar iteration, replacing the sensor after the speedo started acting erratic and then quit altogether. Still no go with a new sensor with the gap set at 0.8mm (my 2007 assembly guide (supplied w/ the car) says 1.0mm gap, more recent guides Duratec 2.0 on say 0.8-0.9mm gap). After reading trials and tribulations of others on the Caterham and Lotus Seven Club site (one report of reducing the gap to 0.5mm to get it right), I started reducing the gap and at 0.45-0.5mm (0.020") or so (best I can measure, looks tight) it now works perfectly. I never was able to see the fiber optic light thru the small hole in the side of the sensor, lite or not. I wonder if my original sensor was fine all along with the gap just out of wack. You might try adjusting the gap before purchasing a new sensor. Cheers! Steve

Thanks John, I have Mintex 1144 pads front and rear as installed on the car when I purchased it. (2008 Roadsport S3 very low mileage). Once I get the master cylinder sorted, I intend to visit the front / rear bias as is the thread topic. Cheers!

Greetings (sorry for the long rant, don't mean to highjack the thread): I've read this thread and a few others that touch on brake issues / problems I'm experiencing and my questions, so I'm posting here. This is after talking w/ AP Racing, Caterham, Demon Tweeks, Questmead, and researching AP documents as best I can. But of course, I may have missed something so defer to the collective group wisdom which greatly exceeds mine. Does anyone have direct experience replacing the "STD" 0.700 bore brake master cylinder w/ the "AP Racing" 0.812" (13/16") bore brake master cylinder, or associated driving experience / feel to offer comparisons 0.700" to 0.812"? The line pressure comparison data etc. AP offers would indicate going up in bore size would reduce feel and the ability to modulate pedal pressure etc. Seams counter intuitive to go up in bore size. I should be able to answer this question myself but am currently trying to remedy / fix brake issues on my: 2008 Roadsport S3 Duratec (0.700" bore brake master cylinder CP5615) repair kits are unavailable so I need a new brake master cylinder, front brakes finally bit the dust as the whole travel to cut off thing, seal degradation, shimming etc. apparently does not allow the port to the hose / reservoir to open upon pedal release, the pads cannot be fully retracted nor can I bleed the front brakes, even with the pedal detached to not preload the cylinder. Rear brakes work fine and can be bleed. The brakes have never really been to my liking. Trying to decide, if I have to buy a new brake master cylinder, should I stick w/ 0.700" bore ($$) (repair kits unavailable) or go w/ the 0.812" (13/16") bore ($$$+) "AP Racing Brake Master Cylinder" (repairs kits are available). Note I have yet to remove, disassemble, and inspect the master cylinder, so do not preclude the potential for a broken internal spring or other problem. 2005 CSR 200 (0.812" 13/16" bore brake master cylinder "AP Racing" CP4627) CP4627-18RK repair kits are available. The brakes work (considerably better than my S3), but given recent experience driving a couple Caterhams with incredible brakes in the UK, and after cleaning, checking, and bleeding brakes my CSR brakes, I have decided the brake master cylinder needs to be rebuilt. I've attached the CP4627-18RK repair kit info including schematic for reference. As best I can tell the 0.700" bore brake master cylinder CP5615 internals are similar but I welcome any corrections. Note: Both cars have the uprated 4-pot Caterham / AP Racing front calipers and stock rear calipers (Sierra?). Anyone with experience or knowledge about the above who can provide any insight or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Cheers! Steve P14.038.pdf