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If you don't have a functioning O2 sensor I'm not sure I follow the fuel pump causing engine shutoff unless your pump is stopping for long enough you are fully running out of fuel to the injectors. There would be no lean signal for the ECU to use to cut spark

You've got something weird going on with an ECU ground probably. Maybe somehow the ground path is going through the clutch assembly. I would find a pinout for the ECU, trace back the grounds and one of them is probably on the gearbox housing or the engine block and your ground strap from the chassis to the engine block is probably missing or failed.

I found the easiest thing to do was to depin the TPS connector and measure between the center signal cable and any chassis ground. Eventually you're going to end up needing an Easimap cable in my opinion. I've attached the setup instructions that Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham sent me. WRNOT 608 - Roller Barrel Setup Ford Duratec Engine.pdf

Some details from a classic mini forum: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/117159-brake-test-switch/

I pulled up the build manual to remind myself of how big that set of bolts are. For an M10, the stack up comparison would be: 2.0mm for a typical steel spring lock washer, 2.0 mm for a typical steel flat washer A typical nordlock washer style set from McMaster would be 2.3mm to 2.8mm https://www.mcmaster.com/91074A180/ and for stainless steel a pair would take up just 1.8mm to 2.3mm https://www.mcmaster.com/91812A255/ This seems to indicate that switching to a nordlock style of washer would give back a washer thickness and should be sufficient. I probably wouldn't bother doubling the cost to switch to stainless steel to gain 0.5mm of engagement but there are still gains to be made there.

Two thoughts. First, 3 threads is technically sufficient but ideal is 1.5 x diameter of the screw. Second, consider either Belleville lock washers or better yet Nordlock/Wedgelock washers. Nordlock are excellent locking washers and are not intended to use with an additional flat washer. https://www.nord-lock.com/learnings/bolting-tips/2010/can-i-use-other-washers-with-nord-lock/ both may be likely to marr the surface of the dedion ears but they should not meaningfully damage it. https://www.nord-lock.com/learnings/bolting-tips/2016/what-effect-will-nord-lock-washers-have-on-my-surfaces/

I had some fun with the extreme version of your tape experiments if you want to take a look at the RAM air scoop data I had

I think this thread and link may explain it better than I can: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/254262-alternators-leds-and-resistors/ http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/alternator.htm#theory In essence, the ignition light on the newer gauges is LED and does not have enough resistance for the alternator charging circuit to correctly turn off the LED when the alternator kicks in without the parallel resistor.

When you unplug the resistor does the red ignition light come on in the dashboard and stay on vs. turning off after starting the engine?

They are probably black oxide steel locknuts such as https://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/558633/nylon-insert-locknuts McMaster, Amazon, etc have them

Josh @ Rocky Mountain Caterham may still have a line on the 622 Sabelts https://sabeltamerica.com/product/cc-622-full-2/?v=7516fd43adaa

I have had good luck with rock climbing shoes. They have a relatively stiff sole with good feel and are very narrow.

1964 Lotus Super 7 S2 Chassis SB 1780 with pre-Crossflow Cosworth 1500 https://motorsportsmarket.com/racecars/lotus-super-seven/

Speedometer is TE Connectivity AMP 174044-2 the tachometer seems to be the same. I pulled one of my spare female sockets off the shelf and it mates correctly to the cable entering the rear of the tachometer. Mouser part number 571-174971-2 (straight pins) or 571-1740492 (90 degree pins) for the female socket. Mouser part number 571-1759642 appears to be the male plug.

At idle: Easimap: 0.41 volts, throttle site 0.3 Throttle Position Sensor: 4.61 volts At approximately full throttle: Easimap: 3.58 volts, throttle site 14.3 Throttle Position Sensor: 1.438 volts 9a4 Unlocked ECU, TPS Ford part number 988F-9B989-BB Measured from TPS as shown in picture below, connected one test lead to signal wire and second test lead directly to the battery's negative terminal.