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I had some fun with the extreme version of your tape experiments if you want to take a look at the RAM air scoop data I had

I think this thread and link may explain it better than I can: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/254262-alternators-leds-and-resistors/ http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/alternator.htm#theory In essence, the ignition light on the newer gauges is LED and does not have enough resistance for the alternator charging circuit to correctly turn off the LED when the alternator kicks in without the parallel resistor.

When you unplug the resistor does the red ignition light come on in the dashboard and stay on vs. turning off after starting the engine?

They are probably black oxide steel locknuts such as https://www.fastenersuperstore.com/products/558633/nylon-insert-locknuts McMaster, Amazon, etc have them

Josh @ Rocky Mountain Caterham may still have a line on the 622 Sabelts https://sabeltamerica.com/product/cc-622-full-2/?v=7516fd43adaa

I have had good luck with rock climbing shoes. They have a relatively stiff sole with good feel and are very narrow.

1964 Lotus Super 7 S2 Chassis SB 1780 with pre-Crossflow Cosworth 1500 https://motorsportsmarket.com/racecars/lotus-super-seven/

Speedometer is TE Connectivity AMP 174044-2 the tachometer seems to be the same. I pulled one of my spare female sockets off the shelf and it mates correctly to the cable entering the rear of the tachometer. Mouser part number 571-174971-2 (straight pins) or 571-1740492 (90 degree pins) for the female socket. Mouser part number 571-1759642 appears to be the male plug.

At idle: Easimap: 0.41 volts, throttle site 0.3 Throttle Position Sensor: 4.61 volts At approximately full throttle: Easimap: 3.58 volts, throttle site 14.3 Throttle Position Sensor: 1.438 volts 9a4 Unlocked ECU, TPS Ford part number 988F-9B989-BB Measured from TPS as shown in picture below, connected one test lead to signal wire and second test lead directly to the battery's negative terminal.

Sent this offline as well but others may have helpful information. I believe this is a Titan Motorsports part sold under Caterham, Titan, and others. I do not think the Cosworth part is the same. I would check in with Titan (and ask for an exploded view of the system for part number references later) to see if they can provide feedback on if some of these machined parts are just wrong. Titan will sell individual components if you reach out via sales@titan.uk. https://www.burtonpower.com/titan-roller-barrel-throttle-body-ford-duratec-he-i4-tbi4.html Agree with KnifeySpooney, this looks to be made wrong and taking an angle grinder to this part is likely satisfying but a bad idea unless you can replace just the component. Would be happy to have a RBTB car meetup to look at the minor differences. I have a spare head if you want a more accurate test bed than screwing to a wood board.

The decibel measurements is a handheld meter set to record the max level and I can take a look at a stoplight and remember the peaks. The rest is the MBE 9a4 ECU connected to an AIM data logger over can bus so piggybacking off the engine control sensors.

Finished fitting the Zolder 150 intake to my car this week. I was looking primarily to reduce noise through the foam air filter on the Caterham Roller Barrel Throttle Intake. 1. Does it work to reduce noise? Firm maybe! In testing, the intake showed a 10db drop at idle from 90db to 80db compared to no intake, with the expected return to 90db when measured in front of the opening. Further, there is a clear change from intake being the loudest part of the car over 4k rpm to the exhaust being the loudest thing over 4k rpm. At highway speeds, running 4500 rpm at 80mph both the intake and foam filter setups had an indicated 103db putting the decibel meter in the passenger footwell, I have no idea if that is chassis/body panel reverberation, exhaust noise, or wind noise. At non highway speeds, revving to 6700 rpm with foam filter only was an indicated 106db, I do not have the same measurement with the intake fitted but at the same 6700 rpm the exhaust noise was clearly louder than the intake noise based on my uncalibrated ear decibel meter. Both cases I had the Raceco 7.25″ exhaust fitted. I would assume 2-3db drop is about the maximum inside the car. I have not tested in a driveby. 2. Does the Ram air effect work? Firm probably! At 80mph after fully coming up to temp the intake air is at the same or slightly increased pressure (increase of ~0.1psi, indicated intake pressure increase) and inlet air temperature is flat while the under bonnet temperatures increase. Without the intake at 80mph after fully coming up to temperature the intake air is at reduced pressure (decrease of ~0.1psi, indicated intake pressure increase) and inlet air temperature continues to increase along with the under-bonnet temperatures. These are not large effects but it is definitely a different behavior! I'm not really horsepower limited (I'm mostly skill limited) so the added power was not a huge goal but it was fun to validate the marketing claims. 3. Does it look good? Looks are subjective. The bulk of the intake ends up essentially taking up the visual space that would otherwise be full of headlight bucket so it is minimally disruptive. There sure is a lot of carbon fiber visible now. 4. Is it worth fitting? Gigantic pain to install, I can't suggest this as a good idea. You have to really want the noise reduction (still too loud to drive without earplugs), really want the extra ~2-3hp at speed, really want the carbon bling, or really got in over your head (like me) and become determined to finish for the personal satisfaction. I ended up cutting apart Reverie P/N R01SE0502, glued back together and patched the inside with some carbon cloth. R01SE0502 ended tapering from 120mm to 50mm, fitted a custom aluminum backplate similar to R01SE0437 FACEPLATE adding approximately 6mm thickness bringing my total assembly to approximately a 60mm to 130mm taper. Followed this adjustment by converting P/N R01SE0590 from PX600 to JC50 specification and then adding a second "JC50 Zolder air box carbon fibre bracket" clamp to the top surface allowing for the cutout on the bonnet to be an acceptable size while still clearing my assembly. The cost of parts is very high, there is a ton of custom and stressful carbon cutting, drilling, gluing, laying up, and sanding. Wear a really good respirator! Happy to share files for my aluminum backplate design, I used an online service that cut them, bent them, and mailed them fully formed.

I have only had the unit from Meteor Motorsport about 2500 miles ago but I have not noticed any slop. When I apply a small angle (3-5 degree) steering torque to the wheel at rest with tires on the ground, I can see the steering rods actuate immediately and it appears that the tire sidewall deformation is coming before any looseness in the quick release. Huge improvement over the standard Caterham/Lifeline Quick Release that I had before but it has had a lot less usage and a lot fewer removals and reinstallations.

If you are already planning on a quick release column and you are looking to bring the wheel towards you the Meteor Motorsports sourced Bell Rapfix quick release https://meteormotorsport.com/shop/caterham/steering-wheels/rapfix-racing-caterham-quick-release-and-top-shaft/ added about an inch of additional column/quick release length compared to the standard Caterham quick release upper column I replaced due to excessive wear. I am not sure how that compares to the fixed upper steering column. Cost is somewhat high compared to fabricating a one inch spacer on the lathe.

Partially completed kit in Sonoma, CA area: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/d/el-verano-lotus-caterham-super-kit/7666504687.html By the way, it looks like Search Tempest has started using a technique to map all advertisements 1,000 miles from [location] to get around Craigslist's rate limiting, I am not sure how effective this is but it may be an option to bring back Craigslist advertisements to this aggregator.