slngsht

Yes. I'd say the pedal force is just right - not too light. Both have changed. I don't know if the balance is completely right, but I have adjusted it, and I don't think either front or rear locks prematurely. In the end, I adjusted the pedals some more. The amount I have to lift my foot off the gas is a little more than I like, but at least now I can heel and toe. I will leave it the way it is for 7/7/7. Time to stop modding. Jack

Please post it in Off Topic. I'd love to see it.

do you still have your 550? When you get the seven, post up some side by side pics

This little gem was posted on corvetteforum in response to someone asking a question about various "horsepower" terms: :rofl:

Cool. sounds like you need to shed a few pounds to make the car perfect. (I'm kidding ofcourse :jester:)

I will be on my best behavior.

all are welcome

Since it's summer time, there is no rush to get there at 4 PM. How about pushing the meeting time to 9AM, and leave Mrs. Rowes' at 10-10:30. Still make it to the dragon by 6 PM. There will still be plenty of daylight left.

All, we need to nail down the breakfast meeting time, so we can all plan our start times accordingly. Steve, can you provide a Google or Yahoo! maps link to Mrs. Rowes? That will help us all plan our departure times from home. Is everyone OK with arriving at Mrs. Rowes at 8:00 AM? or 9:00 AM? Please chime in with your preferences. Time is drawing near :hurray:

I guess I need to come up with an odometer before I call them

Jack, pads and rotors are new, and yes, I went from a '74 Corona front setup to a '04 corvette. I don't know what the bores are exactly, but I've gone from single piston toyota setup to dual pistons on the new setup. I'm fairly certain the new setup has a significantly larger effective bore than the old. This is something that I can measure if the residual pressure valves don't do the trick. They have been bedded in, and I am getting excellent stopping distances from them. Once the pedal goes in the initial couple of inches and i'm able to apply light-to-moderate braking force, the brakes work fantastic. They have just the right level of effort, and the pedal travel isn't that much after that point. The problem I have is that there is much more travel to get to the point where I can apply braking force, and as a result, the pedal has gone too far in for my foot to reach the gas pedal for heel and toe.

humpdy dumpdy

Awesome!

Fair enough

My car is available here and there. We'll have to schedule it.

The hose is probably made in NJ

My problem isn't reaction time or breaking force. I have to pick my dentures off the windshield when I nail the brakes :jester: My problem is that since the upgrade, the pedal travel is too much, making it impossible to heel and toe. I suspect that my master cylinder bore is too small, so I also ordered a 7/8" bore Tilden master (running 3/4" now). What the guy says makes sense though. if the pads separate just a little bit, you have to move more fluid when you push the brakes to move the slaves back to the point where they make contact, hence the initial soft portion of the pedal travel. If that doesn't do much, I'll stick in the bigger master, and that should take care of it.

http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=957

Sunday, June 24. So far, we have 3 cars: Me, Scott Lentz, and Russell Strough Any other takers? Starts with breakfast, ends at lunch. Route to be determined... local MD/NoVA roads.

Maybe he is using his third leg :leaving:

I think he MIGHT need power steering

Steve, that's awesome.

John, I wanted to upgrade my 15" front wheels to something that better matched the 18" rear, widen the front suspension (again to match the rear), and go with bigger brakes. I decided on uprights from the C5 vette. Those uprights are designed to take the spring load from the bottom Aarm. The Rotus suspension used the upper aarm as a cantilever beam for picking up the spring load. I was concerned about the top part of the vette upright casting cracking under that load. I can still convert to an inboard suspension very easily by using a pushrod design.

Yes, that's the fuel gauge, and since i have no baffling, it goes all over the place. I can read any parameter the PCM has access to, plus up to 8 other analog I/O, such as a wide band O2, if I get the sensor. The bar on the right hand side is TPS

Took her out for a night drive last night to test the brakes. I'd have to say, this is the biggest improved area. It feels awesome. This vid has a closeup of the gauge display for Jerry, and a little bit of night driving.