slngsht

Yes, you should be well above 12 volts... closer to 14, if not slightly above 14.

wow. My car is such a mess :lol: Unfortunately, I'm single handed in working on the car.

I've done that before, and that's what I was hoping to find... but oddly enough I couldn't find any that fit either the old fitting, or the new one with the caliper. I was at a Carquest store earlier today that had the individual ones in his hand. I'll go back in tomorrow. Hopefully I can get something together. Advanced Auto stores are hopeless.

what a frustrating night... went from parts store to parts store to try to find a way to adapt the brake line fittings. No luck :banghead:

also called unibits. They do work great

I don't have any pictures, but a couple of vids in the video section. R1 Seven has a few as well.

No. If something is not grounded right, it won't be able to function properly because current can't get through, so it wouldn't be a "drain" on the system. If any one component was drawing enough current to draw down your battery while the car is running with a good alternator, you'd blow a fuse. If your alternator is OK, make sure you check the connections to it, both the main battery connection, and the signal wire.

Well, got to spend a couple more hours today, and got the tierods done. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1882300140_CIMG1435.JPG To get the approximate length of the tierod tubes, I wanted to doublecheck them on the car. As a quick and dirty cross check, I used a laser level (on the middle tire) to shine a beam on one of the grooves of the rear tire, and used that as a reference point to make sure the front wheel is reasonably straight. It's not good enough for alignment, but is accurate enough to make sure I have the right length tierod and adequate toe adjustment. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/512215456_CIMG1433.JPG Although the car won't be done by this weekend, my goal is to take her for a test drive on Saturday.

47 days :willy:

my problem is I can't leave these cars alone after I get them. Buying an original is probably not a good idea for me

No, I missed the Volvette... I wish I knew it was there. The guy belongs to another forum I'm on (LS1Tech.com). At least if he's the same guy. That car is insane. It's not just a LS1. It's turbo. I was very impressed with the Westfield as well, and the fact that they brought out factory guys. Same for the Stalker guys :thumbs:

I have no idea what you're talking about... It's right there in the tool bar Actually, I've been delaying it, because the component I used has expired, and I'm too damn cheap to spend money on it, so wanted to rewrite it. But it has to wait till after I get my car done

unless it was $75K :lol:

I think if I had bought an Eleven instead of a Seven, my wife would be more into it.

Do you have a volt meter handy? If you do, see what the voltage is when the car is running. If your alternator is working, it should read something >12 V... usually around 13.5 to 14V. Maybe you have a bad tester light :lol:

I had a great time there. Al summarized it pretty well. Can't wait till 7/7/7 Cheers

Scott, I don't know the specifics 100%, but I believe these to be true... If you plan to race your car (and even if you don't - it's not a bad idea): Place the kill switch at a location accessible from outside the car, as well as to you in your driving position. Side of the cawl will work for that. I *think* certain SCCA classes have rules regarding this. The kill switch has to kill EVERYTHING that goes to the battery, so you'd probably want it intercepting the main battery cable. Also, look into whether there are straight switches, or relayed switches. This is the extent of my knowledge (or gossip) on this topic :lol:

to answer your question, you'd have to have a way to lock the steering I guess. Most sevens don't come with a lock mechanism AFAIK. Other than that, I don't see why it couldn't work.

ah, drive the seven home... you'll have a great memory of the day(s) you took the epic trip. and if you break down on the way, you'll get many :grouphug: s here :lol: I wish my Rotus was in running condition the day I got her. It would have been great. I did the long drive the day I bought my vette... from Savanah, GA to DC. Flew in, beat a hurricane by a few hours, put the top down, and smiled for 12 hours. I'll never forget the orange hue in the sky that afternoon. :thumbs:

Both Aarms are done :hurray: Time for another beer :cheers: (Pretty soon I'll need to get more beer) http://usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/975242130_CIMG1431.JPG Taking a break tomorrow to join fellow seveners at Carlisle :thumbs:

cheapest option - as you say - is to strip the paint, and just paint fenders and nose cone... you can take those off the car and get them painted. polished aluminum has some maintenance. I was planning to do that, but for now I'm going to stay with brushed aluminum.

I'm no Zetec expert, but if you want around town driveability, be careful about a head/cam job. head/cam packages generally give you higher end hp at the expense of lower end torque and / or emissions/ fuel economy.

I believe so... the chances of rotor speed staying that constant for so long, and matching camera speed is pretty rare... there is another similar video out there.

You can count on pics :yesnod:

I'll probably have to chop 'em. They didn't come off voluntarily