TexasDreamer

I put my size 13s in the passenger footwell and drive in socks. No matter what shoes I tired, my toe hung up on the rod which sticks out toward the driver on the accelerator pedal shaft. Any idea what that rod is for?

I have a 1991 Caterham which was imported from England a few years ago and it is titled as YR/Make: 1992 Cate Model: 7 Body style: RD. Texas recognizes Caterham so no problems getting it registered. The person who imported it titled it in another state. Someone else transferred it to TX. I transferred the title inside Texas. Only question was on the year because the VIN translates to 1991 but due to the original owner build time it was first registered (In England) in 1992. This question did not delay the title transfer.

I bought a set from Redline Components in the UK earlier this year for a 1991 RHD Crossflow.

For the type 9 transmission with mechanical speedometer cable, watch out for the right-angle speedo connection to the transmission. It is fragile and expensive. the two parts in the picture were one part before I broke it.

These tips made a huge difference. First I blocked up the engine so the top of the valve cover was horizontal. Then I moved the transmission in close and blocked it up in position. Then I used 4" bolts as shown in the big blue circle to line it up. Picked up the transmission in the middle. Slid right together, no issues. 10 minutes just like its supposed to be. If I had it to do over, I would also use 3/8" threaded rod (or sawed off bolt) in the top holes for extra help. fun fact to know and tell: The bolts which go from the engine side into the bell housing are 10mm x 1.5. The bolts at the top (small blue circle) which go from the bell housing into the engine are 3/8 x16. You can put a 3/8" bolt in a 10mm hole and it will screw in no issues but it will feel a little loose. You will go to Home Depot and come home with a 10mm bolt and it won't fit. If you try to put a 10mm bolt in a 3/8" hole, it won't go. This is not the first time I have made such a mistake and probably won't be the last. Thanks again for the help!

All this good advice makes we want to blow off work and run right out to try something:)

Thanks for the tips. The engine and trans are out of the car on the floor of my garage. I'll try a combination of the suggestions this weekend, apply some perseverance and see what I can do.

In the process of changing the clutch in my Crossflow with a T9 transmission. New clutch is installed on the flywheel. Now I can't get the transmission mated to the engine. The plastic clutch tool inserts fairly easily. It's certainly not loose but it goes in and out with no issue. The transmission mated up with the bell housing is removed so I know it can work. It took some (well a fair amount) of futsing to get the shaft lined up and a push, but it went in smoothly. I'm using the engine crane to position the transmission. Sometimes I have positioned the trans a little low with the crane and picked it up in my hands. Lots of wiggling. I am using the gap between the bell housing and the back of the block to gauge alignment: making the gap equal all the way around. After an hour and a half of trying, no success. Feels like this should have been done in about 10 minutes. Any tips or tricks? Thanks in advance.

Not many cars can make a Miata look bloated

At the risk of adding more smoke than light, I recently went through this in Texas with a 1991 Caterham Crossflow, probably not much different from yours. I had three choices of categories in which to register: Normal, Classic and Antique. Per state regulations, TX antique car tags are assigned to vehicles that are at least 25 years old, are collector’s items and are used for parades, exhibitions and other public events. Since I use my car for all kinds of travel around The Woodlands, that didn't work for me. Like you, I'm ok not willing to outright flaunt the rules. I ended up with Classic but other than a plate which says "Classic" I don't see any difference from normal. In contradiction to my earlier statement about flaunting rules, I do run without a front license plate. In nine months, no issues despite multiple times when I have passed through a speed trap. I'm thinking the biggest risk there is if I get stopped for something else, the nice officer will pile on the front plate infraction. Have you found a mechanic who is familiar with Sevens? Some jobs are beyond my skill. Some jobs have no room for the errors which come with my wrenching.

My came RHD and I think it's a great feature. Adds to the uniqueness of the car. Shows off it's British nature. A positive topic of conversation when people stop me to chat, which they frequently do. Never had a problem driving it, perhaps because it is so narrow.

Wiggling the key didn't cause the failure. Pawing all around under the dash didn't' cause it either. All the lights, horn etc. work as expected so no matter how messy the wiring is, it's functional and I'm not inclined to spend time figuring out what was done and why. So far, I have cleaned up a lot of electrical connections. Before I worked on them, I wiggled and pulled to see if engine stopped. No luck so it's hard to know if this will fix it or not. Cleaned up the Alternator connections, the ground connections as directed in the Owners Manual, the fuses, the ignition switch. I'm going to let it ride and see what happens. Thanks for all the advice.

1991 XFlow twice over the last 4 months has stopped running for no apparent reason. The first time I was decelerating on a frontage road about to turn off and it just quit. No hiccup, no sputter. Needles on the gauges went to zero and the engine stopped running. I coasted to a stop in a safe place, thought about it for a minute, then turned the key and it started right up. Yesterday I was making a left turn through an intersection at low speed and it just quit again. I didn’t notice the gauges. I started it up while still coasting and it ran fine all the way home. At twice in four months it’s very intermittent so it will be hard to know if I’ve really fixed it. Any idea on what’s wrong and how to fix it?

Over the Memorial day weekend I swapped out the battery. No way was it coming out the bottom. The corner of the battery tray filled the gap between the tubing and the engine block. I thought about cutting off the corner of the battery tray but couldn't bring myself to do it. Following @Kitcat suggestion, I put in a smaller battery. The lithium is much smaller and lighter. Although I didn't check, I'm expecting it would squeak out the bottom. Pulling the carbs was not hard, but it did take a long time because I was very tentative. I also had to detach the ignition coil and the speedometer cable, but avoided taking out the steering shaft by 1/8 inch. Instead of just the rear carb, I pulled them as a pair because I could not get the accelerator cable bracket which tied them together loose. I was going to refresh the carbs while I had them out but my family gave me pressure to get the toy running for play time so I just put them back in. Amazing difference in the starting experience. I'm not sure how much is the old battery being very weak and how much to attribute to the new battery being lithium. However, it now spins fast and starts immediately. One thing to say about this car is that it always starts, even when the weak battery was barely turning it over. Now, I'm working on dialing in the carbs. I showed the YouTube video to the car but apparently the car wasn't paying attention. How to Balance & Tune Twin Weber DCOE Carburetors | Tech Tip 18 - YouTube First thing is the idle speed is too high, around 1200 RPM. I get there by screwing the rear carb idle speed screw all the way out and then setting the idle speed screw on the front carb so the air flow matches. Second thing is that the idle air mixture screw on the rear cylinder has no effect. I can close it down all the way and nothing happens. Next weekend I'll try again. in the meantime, I'm happy that the toy is fully drivable and that I that at least haven't made it worse in some noticeable way.

Solved 2/3 of the fit issue (maybe only a half depending on how you count) by adjusting the accelerator and brake pedals. Now my right leg has plenty of room. Clutch cable was not adjustable up top by the pedal. I'm assuming the the adjustment for it is inside the rubber boot down by the clutch. Will deal with it later when I have the car up in the air and time to figure it out.