scannon

I got mine from RSMC, now Caterham USA. They don't make a mount for the SV series so I split the narrow one in the middle and added a 4" piece in the center. Got to get around to polishing it out and drilling the holes for the screens and mirrors and then mounting it up. I've already installed the brackets with weld nuts to make changing from full windscreen to Brooklands much easier. These brackets also have the added benefit of making your windscreen much more solidly mounted. It now has a direct connection to a frame tube instead of just the sheet metal with a big washer behind it.

Al, Congratulations on the new Seven. I've seen that car several times as they (slowly) restore it. It should be a great car. What color(s) are you going with?

Mike was having problems posting his pictures and sent me copies. He said it was OK for me to post them for your viewing pleasure. One with the full windscreen and two with the Brooklands. Great looking car Mike.

Miatas are 4 x 100mm, generally with a 43mm offset.

Pictures, please?

http://stevebass.posterous.com/an-exciting-and-provocative-poledance-0 Hot Stuff!

I doubt there are many people who can look at the pictures of the wires under your dash and point to one and say, use this one. I do recall seeing a couple of unused connectors hanging down somewhere the middle of the dash and I would start with them. Finding a 12v hot lead can be done with a multimeter or a test light. Radar detectors don't like noisy power supplies (and some electronic car parts don't like other items using their power supply) so when you find one you will need to look at the schematic wiring diagram to figure out what else is on that circuit. If you can't find one then you can run one directly from the battery with a proper sized fuse and wire. As mentioned before, be very careful where you run it through the firewall and use a rubber or plastic grommet to prevent shorts. I'd suggest you use a 12v switched hot lead as sooner or later you will forget to turn off the detector and if car sits for a few days the battery will be flat when you want to use the car again. Turn your key on while looking and then confirm that the 12v goes away when you turn the key off. A ground is easy to find, just look around for a (usually) black wire that is attached to something metal and piggyback your ground with it, Use a multimeter to confirm that it is in fact a good ground to the battery negative. Or you can run your own ground direct from the battery.

MNlotus, No disrespect intended, but I think from your questions that you have limited automotive electrical experience and it would be wise to pay someone who has that knowledge to install this for you. I don't think the manufacturer intended to provide electrical feeds specifically for a cigarette lighter in your car. Someone will need to ferret out a candidate for the power supply and wire into it, especially if you want it to turn off the power when you turn off the ignition switch. You have a rather expensive toy here and it would be a shame if it burned up or had significant electrical damage if you don't have the skills to do it correctly. It is not a simple plug and play. It is also not a particularly difficult thing to do for someone who has those skills. Don't risk it to save a few bucks.

One thing to consider is that you may be able to sell the front and rear suspensions and recover a significant portion of the price of the package.

Stopped by the local NAPA store and asked what they had. They loaned me the cube mentioned above and I ordered one for myself as I will be doing this again. Thanks for the help.

I'm in the process of installing new pads on the rear of my '04 Caterham and can't get the piston to retract into the caliper. I've opened the bleeder and used a pry bar and block of wood to try to push the piston back into the caliper with no success. There is slack in the hand brake cable and the hand brake lever seems to be against its mechanical stop so that would not seem to be the problem. It's a single piston design that came with the car. Other rear brakes have had a device to mechanically adjust/retract the piston but I cannot find any thing like that on these calipers. The piston surface has four shallow grooves in it from the outside perimeter towards the center of the piston. Perhaps these can be used to screw the piston surface back towards the actual piston itself but I don't have any tool that would facilitate that and I don't want to get in there with two screwdrivers and muck it up. Can anyone offer some insight into how to move the piston back into the caliper? Thanks,

A great opportunity for someone who wanted to go their own way with a different engine. This is where I started from with my Caterham, a dealer built rolling chassis although mine didn't come with a transmission but I suspect this transmission could be easily sold if the new owner went with something else. If someone checks the price, please let us know what it is.

You can't get a new one in the US anymore. It was discontinued after they sold only 280 some odd of them in 2006, the last year they were offered here. From Wikipedia: In the United States market, 1,433 Phaetons were sold in 2004, but just 820 were sold in 2005, leading the company to announce that sales in the American market would end after the 2006 model year. The rare W12-engined models have depreciated significantly, and sell for a small fraction of their original cost. In April 2008, Volkswagen announced plans to reintroduce the Phaeton to the United States market in 2009. It didn't make it back to the USA market in 2009.

Probably some unfortunate fellow or his insurance company who has these as OEM headlights and has a broken one (or two). There are a couple of years of Miatas where the fog lights cost nearly $300 each to replace and being down low, they break often.

After a short bit of research I found this, part of a book titled The Last Healey at Le Mans written by David Matthews: For 1970, the car was entered as XR37, entry number 34. Donald and Geoff decided to modify the car dramatically and move up to three-litre engine size. As was the fashion at the time, the car was modified into an open “barquette” by removing the coupé panels. The car was basically cut in half to extend the wheelbase dimensions by six inches to accomodate a three-litre Repco-Brabham V8. This car was driven by Andrew Hedges and Roger Enever. Despite spending 90 minutes in the pits to replace clutch/gearbox components, being involved in a shunt with a Porsche with Jim Cashmore, the DHM Workshop Supervisor lying in the pit lane bending bodywork back with his legs, and with torrential rain for most of the race, the car ran extremely well. XR37 at one time was 10th overall. Unfortunately, and with just 14 minutes of the race left at the 23 hours 46 minutes mark, whilst lying in 14th overall, the car had a ballast resister rivet shaken loose and the engine expired. Taken from http://www.healeymeetslemans.nl/files/openpdf.php?pdf=last_healey_at_le_mans I guess the rally master's word really was indisputable. It is quite the car, reminds me of the Jaguar XJ13. http://www.autocult.com.au/img/gallery/full/hologram77.jpg

Close but no cigar. It was 1970 according to the rally master whose word was non-contestable.

Hi JLC, It was nice meeting and talking with you at the show. Sorry about mixing up the original owner bit. You asked about my headlights. I found the dealer I bought them from but it looks like they don't carry them in the 5 3/4" size but they do have them in 4 1/2". You might ask them if they still have the bigger versions. http://www.demonscycle.com/Shop/Control/MainMenu/fp/cat/87154/seo/1/sfv/31995/page/1/SFV/31995 How about opening a thread in the Members Rides section to tell us all about your S4? Skip

No joy so far on the year, Bruce got the right track, Le Mans.

IIRC, this S4 was a '67 or '68, factory built and original owner. I'm in Erie, about 20 minutes North of downtown Denver. Stop by next time you visit the area and go for a ride in the Caterham. Maybe I can arrange for you to meet the owner of the S4 in the show.

Hub cap is correct. One more from the tie breakers: What was the last year that an Austin Healey was raced by the factory and where was the race?

Nope, but that is a better guess than we made at the rally.

What's high tech about a piece of rubber and two suction cups with picture hangers hooks attached to them? There is one entrance and four exits to the heater system. If you block all four exits that heater box is going to get very warm and radiate heat into the cockpit. You might be able to add a duct to the outside of the car but it would take up space and you never know what will happen when you try to direct air around various components of a car. You might end up with a reverse flow from what you expected.

For your viewing pleasure, here are some more pictures of the S4. The car really grew on me the more I looked at it.

1. This is the first Series 4 I have seen other than pictures. It looks much better than I expected. It has an original Lotus Twin Cam engine. 2 & 3. Westfield X1, a nicely patina'd driver. He drove this on the rally on Saturday as well as showing it on Sunday. 4 & 5. A very nicely restored 1961 Lotus Elite. Won 1st in class in the Lotus division. 6. What British car gathering is complete without the drum and bagpipe band? 7. Four of the six Se7ens entered in the show. L to R, Bsimon's RHD Vauxhall engined Caterham, my '04 SV, the Lotus Series 4, 75Twincam's Caterham. 8. A very unique hemi head V8, can you guess where it came from without looking at the next picture? 9. This hot rod was built in New Zeland many years ago. I walked up from the rear of the car and didn't see the sign. The engine stopped me dead in my tracks. The owner said I was the first person to recognize the engine without seeing the sign.

We have a winner! Sorry, no prize other than my admiration for your Brit car knowledge. I guessed Mini on the tie breaker but that was not it. Another one: Nave Plate. what is it?