DanM

I've been away from the build for just over a month now. First, I caught the mandatory cold from the kids and was out of commission for a week or so, then I had to finish up up a bunch of consulting work before my clients closed down for the holidays and finally I had my list of home projects that "MUST" be completed before we have guests over for Christmas. Anyway, I managed to get a full day in the garage and tried to tune into where I had left off......oh yeah, wiring! Progress is still slow, but I think it is finally coming together. My main focus is shortening the sections of wire behind the dash by cutting and crimping. Here's a couple of pic of my progress. Before After

Hey everyone, I am building a Mazda SDV and am using the MX-5 instrument cluster and wiring loom. The Westfield kit doesn't come with a hazard switch so I need to add one myself........ and to ensure that my OCD tendencies are satisfied, I want to replace the supplied demister switch at the same time so that they match. I am thinking of getting the standard Caterham rocker switches, but noticed on the website that there are two different options available. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/229-rocker-switch-hazard-1981-2010.html?search_query=hazard&results=6 https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/4242-switch-hazard.html?search_query=hazard&results=6 Here are my questions: 1. What is the physical difference between the two rocker switches? 2. Which one would be best for the Mazda wiring loom? 3. What else will I need to get to make them work? I have read some forum posts talking about controllers etc. Thanks

....forgot to mention, I bought a packet of 12 small velcro straps (Red in the pictures) from the dollar store. Makes tracing and moving wires so much easier!!

Quick Update...... Not much excitement here, still reading wiring diagrams.... Making spreadsheets and cross checking with reality. Spreadsheets also enabled me to filter and sort so I can quickly check multiple wires for a single system. ....and then more labelling. I'm taking my time, trying to be tidy and methodical and only working in short burst of time....I think I'm finally starting to tune into it!

Will do! Thanks Graham

Thanks for the tips, I will definitely keep these in mind as I go. This is one of my biggest concerns, the Miata seems to have ground wires branching off from everywhere and I have had to cut a lot of them out so I can get a nice tidy loom. I just need to make sure that they all go back in afterwards!! Any tips on organizing them? Mine is by my left knee too, but I'd rather it somewhere else. I am weary about putting it in the engine bay because of the heat on that side. In hind sight, where would you have put it? Do you have any pictures of this? I'm curious! :-)

So its been nearly 2 weeks since my last post. Since my last update I continued with the back end and installed the fuel filter using the bracket for my donor. I looked at a few build diaries to figure out where to put it so it didn't interfere with the wishbone bolts and wiring and once I was happy I inserted some rivnuts and screwed it in place. Wiring (ouch!) So after installing the fuel filter, I decided (For Fun) to lay the Miata loom over the chassis just to see how it lined up with the Westfield. If you recall, one of the first jobs that I tackled back in December last year was thinning out the loom and getting rid of what was clearly redundant (pop up headlight wiring etc.) So, as it had been nearly a year, I needed to visually see it to quench my curiosity. First, I zip tied the dash cluster to the chassis. Then, I laid it out as best I could, just to see where everything went. Thankfully, all the wire groups were labelled so it was fairly easy to recognize stuff. All seemed to be going well until I had the bright idea to separate some of the wire bundles and explore where they went.... 💩......at this point my stress levels went through the roof and I needed to reach out to the community on to help calm me down. After a number of evenings staring at the wires, reading my Haynes manual and carefully going over the Canadian Miata wiring diagrams in the shop manual, I finally pulled together a plan.....not really, just plucked up the courage to dive in! 🤿 First things first, I made some brackets to attach the fuse boxes and relays. I managed to salvage the OEM fuse box brackets from the donor and after a bit of cutting and spraying created some new Frankenstein brackets to hold things in place. I tried to attach the main engine bay fuse box as per the manual, but unfortunately it would have covered the (very badly punched and barely legible) chassis number. So once again I got the angle grinder out and made a new bracket courtesy of the donor, and attached it to the other chassis rail. With these securely in place and some clamps holding the rubber grommets close to were the scuttle would be, I could run and position rest of the wiring accordingly. Fun fact, the US wiring is different from the European wiring and the Canadian wiring is different form the US wiring! So after many fun hours in the wiring abyss, wondering why I was missing relays etc., the Miata forums managed to sort me out! BTW, if anyone is interested the Canadian cars do not have the TNS, Headlight or blower relays! They also have a Daytime Running Light (DRL) control panel so that the sidelights are on when the car is on. I'm sure I'll be tripped up by other stuff as my journey continues and be sure to let you know!! This is where I am today..... I am trying to reduce the amount of connectors to the cluster. Slowly over the next few days, I'll try to get things to a state where I can install the battery and see what's what!

I am building a Westfield Miata and using the donor wiring loom. Does anyone have any experience or advice on wiring the DRL wiring to the headlights. Context: The NA1 Miata had pop up headlights so there were dedicated Daylight Running Lights underneath the pop ups running on a separate circuit.

Thanks Guys! This is awesome, I really appreciate the tips!!

While I am waiting for supplies, tonight I decided to continue with what ever I could. Seems to be the theme this week. 😁 ECU Tray On Tuesday, I drilled and offered up the ECU tray ready for trimming. I used painters tape to mark where it needed to be cut and then used a Dremel to make the cut. Unfortunately, either my disc was wearing out or my Dremel (well actually, its a Dremel wannabe ) wasn't powerful enough so the most I could do was get about half way through. This was enough for me to put it in the vice with a straight edge and carefully bend it. After a quick zip on the sanding wheel to smooth the edges and round the corners, it was ready for fitting again. Fuel pump Next, I fitted the fuel pump. First I made 6mm holes in the P-Clip. Then, after reading the manual again and checking a few build diaries, I installed some rivnuts and attached the pump. Am I supposed to have washer on the screws? The manual doesn't mention anything.

I have spent the last few days researching the next few parts of the build and chatting with some LHD builders to help me overcome some LHD specific challenges. Even though they have not been active on the forums for a number years, they have really pulled out all the stops to help me and have been extremely generous with their time digging out old photos and answering my questions. As always, I'm very thankful. In between searching and chatting I did manage to get some time in the garage to make a start on a couple of bit. Firstly (and reluctantly), I found the old carbon canister and bracket from the donor car. It is needed to pass inspection, so I got my head down, bushed it, cleaned it and sprayed it. Before After Installed I kept the old hoses on there for now until I figure out the routings. I also attached the sensor on the back of the canister bracket. I'm interested to hear where people installed the other items that were also fitted on the bracket (The power TR unit, etc.). Secondly, I had a go at positioning the ECU tray. Unfortunately, the hinges were missing from my kit, so I went to the local hardware store and bought myself a nice piano hinge. I had to cut it to length, but overall I'm very happy with it. Marking and drilling the holes. Test fitting it to the chassis with clecos. Very tidy As I was looking through my box of brackets I noticed that the ECU mounting strap was also missing. Some days I wonder how I don't lose my S**t with all the bits that are either missing or wrong! 🤬 Lastly, I started locating and offering up the steering column pieces. This is a bit of a dark art for LHDers as there are a lot of obstacles in the way. I have the extra complexity of trying to forward plan for a future turbo so I've done a lot of head scratching and look at a ton of photos. Once again I had a part missing (Lower steering shaft bush) so, this little exercise was also put on hold for now, while I order the part from the UK!

This evening I pulled the coolant hoses out of the kit boxes and made a start fitting them to the radiator. As seems to be the trend I am missing something...this time it is the upper aluminum tube that connects the coolant neck to the upper radiator input. After a quick email to Manik, to hopefully get one sent, I made a start on the lower hose. If you recall I bought a G19 Water pump inlet. As it is a different shape to the donor inlet (with heater connection) the hose doesn't have to be as long. After a bit of trimming a few test fits and a bit more trimming, I think I've landed on something that will work well. All the trimmings. I took a little off the radiator hose so I could (almost) clear the chassis. Turns out there was enough clearance after all! Test fitted to the G19 outlet. Test fitted to the radiator. It looks close to the steering rack but its just the angle of the photo. Now time to figure out my connecting to the coolant re-route. My thought is to repurpose the missing upper tube (dark blue) and coolant neck hose (Light blue) and somehow connect to the reroute hose with a coupler and 90 bend (yellow). elegance on a budget! lol!

Radiator This evening I moved on to installing the radiator. I found this quite enjoyable as in a short space of time I got to do a number of different tasks, cutting, drilling, riveting etc. Preparing the parts Assembling the mounts Installing on the car. I also sprayed cavity wax and put sealant on the drill holes before riveting. The whole install seemed to be very straight forward and went smoothly, but I did notice that the lower radiator outlet seemed very close to the chassis. Does this look normal to you?

Each province has its own rules for inspection. In Ontario, (I think) you typically have an inspection once when you first get it registered and then every time the car changes ownership. The challenge I have is that the number of kit builders (Westfield or other) around here is quite low, so I have to find a shop that will even want to inspect it (They often think it needs a special inspection). If I can keep the engine system as OE complete as possible, intake, sensors, ECU etc. the less chance I have of spooking an inspector.

So I made a decision on my cold air intake. Not a very exciting one I'm afraid, but necessary. To get through my initial inspection I want to have the engine and peripherals as close to stock as possible. With that in mind I will be installing the original airbox and as much of the air intake as I can, to make it all work. So this evening I reluctantly dug out the old MX5 intake parts that were tucked away and covered in rust, dust and cobwebs and gave them a quick wipe down. I have no plans to spend any time or effort on them, because as soon as I am registered I will replace them with one that that is more aesthetically pleasing and hopefully performs better. Wiped clean. Ready for separating. The bit that I will use. The airbox. You can tell that the whole donor airbox thing is a complete over sight. None of the mounting holes lined up and they also too small for the recommended bolt size. Once again, the powder coating on my bracket was also flaking off and surface rust had appeared. Anyway, I'm in the rhythm of things now, so once I had found work arounds for all these features, I had both the intake and airbox installed.

This evening I spent some more time tinkering around with stuff while I figured out my next move on the build. Steering column control refresh. When I disassembled the MX5 I noticed that the steering column stalks for indicators and wipers etc., were worn and the print had rubbed off. This would be a safety fail. As luck would have it I found another old unit at the salvage yard that had worn on the opposite side to mine. I decided to combine the two to make one useable unit. Removing the stalks One complete unit. Not a great photo 'cos of the light, but both sides have good print! Shifter Rebuild The other job I was waiting to do once the gear box was in the car was the shifter rebuild. The donor shifter boot and internals were not in a good state so I ordered a rebuild kit from treasurecoastmiata.com Unfortunately, the boot is not shown, but its an original OEM part (R501-17-47Z). There are lots of rebuild videos on Youtube.com. Once again I used thecarpassionchannel as one of my my main sources. Assembled, ready for install. Final washer and bushing Followed by approx. 90ml of gearbox oil ...and in she slides.

Thank You! I hadn't thought of that.

She's on the ground! (For now) After the high of installing the engine over the weekend, I decided to clean up the garage and do a bit of tinkering. First, I installed the upper steering column. I shaped and painted the bracket one night last week so it just needed assembling and bolting down. I'm happy with the final result, considering I cant weld. With time to spare and an itching to do something else, I went out into the yard and found the wheels from the donor car and decided I would throw them on the car to see what it looked like. The front wheels went on with ease, but unfortunately the rear wheels interfered with the quickjack stand. After a bit of head scratching I jacked up the back of the car and lowered the quick jacks to the ground which then gave me the space to install the rear wheels. Wow! Its low!! 🤣 Now that its down, I guess the logical next step would be to tighten the bolts down, correct?

You're not going to believe this, but I haven't even thought about it! lol The penny still hasn't dropped that this is going to be an actual car that I can drive around in. In my mind it is still just a model kit!

So I forgot to mention that while I kept the existing flywheel from the donor, I decided to replace the clutch disc and plate. No performance upgrades here, just a new OE equivalent from Exedy. https://www.amazon.ca/EXEDY-10036-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B592VQ

Finally managed to get to the fastener store to pick up my missing 8mm nuts and washers for the gearbox mount and finished bolting everything down. Gearbox mounts LH Engine mount. As you can see I had to drill some new holes so I didnt interfer with the chassis rails below.

So its been a long day and I would say I am 90% complete on installing the engine into the chassis. As always it didn't quite go to plan but its off the stand and in the car, although time and parts ran out before we could drill the engine mount holes and bolt it down. First off we hooked up the hoist and removed the engine from the stand. Then we attached the flywheel and clutch and finally the transmission and starter motor. I make it sound so easy, but it took us a while to remember where the different length bolts went, get it all together and torque it down. Then on went the engine and gearbox mounts. This is where it started to get frustrating for me. Once again hardware was missing from the kit, and so I had to go to the hardware store to pick up more supplies, and guess what, the store didn't have what I needed so I came home short of 8mm 1.0 nuts for the transmission mounts. So, although we were missing a few nuts we decided to press on regardless as the hoist was on rental and Chris was only available to help today. Engine in position. Going in. eeny, meeny, minee......Which hole to use? Logic told me to choose the round one in the middle, but unfortunately the transmission mount would be nowhere near the mounting plate in the tunnel. The slotted hole to the left put it bang on! Note the thicker engine mount rubbers. members of the UK forum shared the part details and I collected them when I was in the UK a few weeks ago. They come from Burton Power and are about 1/2 inch thicker than the standard mounts, helping me get a bit more ground clearance for the oil pan. https://www.burtonpower.com/engine-mount-hd-rs-mexico-capri-52mm-thick-fp292.html So, sadly time ran out and that's as far as I got today. Overall it was a great day, the weather was great, the garage doors were open, the music was awesome, I got to spend quality time with the family and I finished the day with a few beers. Tomorrow I will drill holes for the LH engine mount bracket and gearbox mounts and secure down everything that I can.

Engine Install Today is engine install day. I have my Brother in Law coming over to help me in an hour or so. I’ll try my best to post some pictures as we go!!

Thank You! The visuals are a great help!

Thanks for the feedback. I checked the lower bracket and it is slotted so I am able to slide the lower column to a more central position.