MV8

A little waxoil or straight boiled linseed squirted into each open hole. It gets thick and gels as it dries. Prevents rust too.

Lightly push the head from the side with a flat blade screw driver, tilt the drill to one side, light pressure, high speed.

Unless there is tire damage or rolled cold to where the bottom is now under the string, tire bulge is fine for string alignments. The string is set as high as possible/close to the wheel CL. Nice, simplifying tool AP. Great for enthusiasts who don't want to do the math with $20 worth of tools but can't get an alignment shop to use the customers specs and possibly cheaper as well. Should be close enough with a good phone and cal.

He has wear to one tire. Toe would result in feathering to both front tires.

Since it is limited to one tire, it sounds like camber (tapered wear across the tread to where inboard or outboard has tread, but the other side has less) or blown damper (cupping wear around the circumference). A $12 digital protractor can be used to check the camber on each side relative to a centered horizontal surface (windscreen top/cowl/chassis cross rail) since it won't be on a rack. After camber is set, the toe would be adjusted.

Parts only. "Certificate of Destruction". The vin cannot be rebuilt.

Traditional seats (two squabs and a back rest panel) offer the most room but no head rest or adjustability. There are like boat seats with a wood or chip board base, high density foam (at least 5#, 2 inch bottom, one inch back) and marine vinyl wrapped and stapled on the hidden side with velcro strips like an airliner seat cushion. A local upholstery shop could handle that.

Who doesn't love cheese?

If the noise is not very loud and goes away with light clutch pedal pressure, I doubt any action should be taken and you can live with it until the next clutch replacement. Replacement of the release bearing involves engine removal. You could post an audio clip or link to a video to share the sound. I'm South of you. If you are still concerned enough to bring it down one day for a brief examination (with PM coordination, no charge and no motivation to sell a service or joy ride). I'm sure there are folks like that around Chattanooga, but I don't know any.

The same could be said of any modern car, which are less long-term sustainable than older cars. I don't know why anyone would need anything directly from caterham to maintain a conservative design, fair weather car. Anything that cannot be made or repaired here, can be upgraded. Probably the biggest issue is finding competent, local support. I think the problems you are reading about are mostly from buying a car that has not been maintained, modifications, racing abuse, a few parts made complicated in an attempt to make them proprietary, and lack of support for cars made in the last ten years by not sharing service info in the form of schematics. I expect the electric will take lessons from Tesla to be more proprietary than ever when it could be so simple with standard components and no middle man inserted to prevent or authorize component replacement. A 5spd with an '80-90s design domestic, mass produced engine and efi with drum rear brakes should be the most practical and trouble free car imho. Practical (heater,wiper, quiet, mild tune, pump gas) helps to ensure regular use. Sitting for six months at a time isn't good.

Looks like about $1000 for front wings to your door, but colored gel coat with no need to paint.

New glass wings would also require sanding if they will be painted. I expect a Caterham dealer could import wings for this. Clean well with acetone before wet foam block sanding with 220. Cracks should be ground out (dremel works well) then filled with catalyzed gel coat. Rattle can sandable high build primer, wet sand 400, reprime, light mist/fog contrasting primer evenly from about two feet away, wet sand off all the contrasting primer. Your painter should be satisfied with that. An oscillating 5 inch sander with velcro discs will save a lot of elbow grease and cost about $50 combined.

You might check to see if the crank is centered in the chassis (affects lateral ujoint angle). It could be the opposite side needs the shim or it should be split. Longer bolts. No need for loctite. Also sent you a pm a few days ago. Popup blocker?

Looks like a stuck outer piston and someone tried to loosen the dragging brake (maybe on the side of the road?) with a screwdriver. You could reinstall the caliper without the pads and pop the pistons out far enough to pull with the brake pedal applied or with air to see how bad it is before ordering parts. Brake clean aerosol and emory cloth for minor clean up. Lube pistons and seals with brake fluid and start them by hand. If they cock and won't rock back easily, apply air or pedal to push them back out a little.

Regular people get sued all the time for nothing (deposed and discovery), much less those that make something that will be subject to scrutiny in case of a future accident. Doesn't matter if it was made and given away for free. The plaintiff doesn't need to be the person it was given to. I wonder if "eggshell skull" doctrine would apply to someone who had a cardiac from being pissed that their car would not shift properly. There I go joking again! This is something that could be made easily using the installed trans, shifter, and tunnel cover with shift boot for reference.