MV8

Body length and how big a diameter? 1.75 in and out? Slip fit ends or butt weld? Offsets for a bigger diameter for a more effective muffler?

It could cut at the end welds and along the seam lengthwise, then the cover spread just enough to slide over the end cap. Packing doesn't last that long and the muffler design is not very effective. It could be made rebuildable so that cutting and welding is not required. Could also be made a bit larger in od. Hidden inserts for the tip can be made or bought to quiet it down as well.

You can depower what you have, but if it is indeed a 71-72 pinto rack and you want to replace it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144549454565?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1m44DnB4rS8CbO0qO7XKVVA11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144549454565&targetid=2321310837104&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1015561&poi=&campaignid=21214302385&mkgroupid=161029887581&rlsatarget=pla-2321310837104&abcId=9407524&merchantid=7875914&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiLvp7dDhiwMV4ZBaBR13wArqEAQYAyABEgKS6fD_BwE https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8000080?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiLvp7dDhiwMV4ZBaBR13wArqEAQYASABEgKSSPD_BwE If narrowed by 5 inches compared to standard replacements listed above: https://www.appliedracing.com/steering-components/71---72-pinto-style---5-narrowed.html

Could also have add some preload to raise the suspension, realign, then test drive to see if you'd be satisfied, before selecting tires that would have fit the increased clearance, but it looks good as-is!

An easier way to think of the spring stacking is that it is the same as adding them side-by-side where the load is split, like a balance bar dual brake master system. The pedal load is less than either circuit until one side runs out of travel. You can see it in the video in the recent topic about restoring the Professors car. Also like 20% percent of the workers carry 80% of the load for the shop/office because 80% run out of bandwidth/travel early. I doubt you have more than 6 inches of total damper travel by design. I suggest using a single, 80# 1-7/8 x 10". Subtract 10 from the fully extended seat-to-seat length (not spring free length), then machine UHMW rod for an upper seat spacer (2.25 x 1.875 x 0.50" seat washer optional). The spacer ID is the shaft OD. The spacer OD is 2.25". The step is 1.875 ID x 0.325". Machine the upper id to clear any protrusions from the standard upper seat if any so the spacer sits flat. I have cad again now if you'd like me to draw it for you in dxf for a machinist but you need to provide the missing info. The installed upper spacer will be difficult to see. The spacer can be made thinner if you give up some or all the lower seat adjustment range. UHMW is similar to delrin but not as slippery or as expensive. A machinist should charge much less for cutting plastic instead of metal and you can have the washer laser cut through the mail but there is usually a minimum order. You could make an upper seat or adapter out of aluminum instead of an add-on plastic spacer but it would be heavier.

You're right. They used MGB and pinto racks, and 74-78 pintos came with power and this type of intermediate shaft, but the mounting is wrong. It looks like a 71-72 pinto rack.

That is NOT an MGB power rack. There, I fixed it!

Are the hydraulics going through the rack or the intermediate shaft? If it is the rack that is powered, post pics. Whomever made it likely has a manual version or you just take the valving off the rack you have.

It is leveraging to get something closer to equal tariffs (or free trade with no tariffs). If or when takes two. Upset constituents of foreign states is a significant factor. Your ship date should be far enough out for this to work itself out.

Can't be very specific with so few details in your post, but generally and historically, a car can be built using a donor. The completed vehicle may be inspected for retitling as something other than the original donor or kept as the original title without inspection. Some States take issue with a vehicle that doesn't appear to be the donor. The insurance co may take issue with claims or continued coverage (even basic liability) if they find the car is nothing like the policy description. The line between customized and being something else is usually drawn in mud. A donor may be damaged sufficiently to become "salvage" and then "rebuilt", but the differences range from essentially nothing to major. State code mostly supports insurance companies so they will do business in the state. One common rule is requiring a title to be surrendered on a vehicle if the payout exceeds a percentage of the blue book value. Low value donors may become salvage titled if a claim is paid to repair a scratch in the paint. The owner has the salvage donor inspected (with or without repairing the scratch), and gets a rebuilt title. Some States will not allow a vehicle on the road based on having been "rebuilt" a few times (more money for them if you replace a vehicle instead of repair). The owner has the option of not taking a payout from the insurance co and keeping their title clean. They can also sue the other person instead of accepting the same amount from the insurance co and losing the title. Talk to your insurance co about covering a retitled kit versus a kit that still has the original clean or rebuilt title. Note they may change their mind in the future and decide not to renew (like three wheelers after the insurance nightmare/hooliganism that was the T-rex). Another common rule that helps the state and insurance companies is that local municipalities may not bill the insurance co for the cost of cleaning up an accident. The local services are already paid for but they can still bill a vehicle owner directly for clean up (typically fire department collecting the pieces and maybe sweeping a few minutes). No fault needs to be found for the accident.

I understood what you wanted to do. Don't bump or push the screw as your are tightening and it may work long term. Bad spot for a ground eye. I'd run it out the hole with the other wiring to ground on the chassis. The shell does not need to be grounded.

I can't think of any definite negatives. The toe link moves up and forward with front steer uprights but not much, so ackermann increases slightly and bumpsteer changes slightly. Not necessarily bad changes. washers out of the same bin can vary significantly in thickness, so have enough to stack to the same overall thickness for each side and position. Measure with a dial caliper. Cars are not precise either. If it pulls, try less caster on that side or more on the other.

Look for a rivet with these specs: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivets/rivets~/mandrel-material~stainless-steel-1/mandrel-material~316-stainless-steel/hole-size~0-097-to-0-1/length~3-8-1/length~0-375/ Could also use 4-40, A286 screws and nuts. More area is needed for epoxy than a nut or even the nut plate can provide. A rivnut for plastic, with a strip of medium hard but flexible plastic that butts against the inside flange and is drill for the rivnut would work well, without epoxy. A hard plastic like uhmw could be filed to fit the curvature of the cavity then drilled and tapped for the original screw. Another alternative to epoxy is to use double-sided 3m foam tape used for hanging rubber body molding on car doors. Usually a thin white tape with bright red peel-away covering over the acrylic adhesive, but either way, adequate area is needed unless it will butt against the inside flange so it won't rotate.

A nut plate would be less likely to spin in the thin sheetmetal of the bucket: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/rivet-mount-nuts~/

The horn opening should point down so rain or water from a pressure washer is less likely to enter and ruin it or freeze.