MV8

Magnecor is in Michigan. Part number AU_337 should be correct (C20XE engine) with the wire type and thickness after U. Contact Magnecor. The plug boot length and grommet in combination with the distributor cap terminal is unique to this engine. Some have coil packs instead and those are different too. I would consider taking one of the wires to a local auto parts store to compare the ends to what they have on the shelf, then cross reference. Focus and miata plug ends would be a good place to start. Post your terminal length tip to valve cover top seal and the diameter at the plug and the ribbed middle that helps to keep it centered in the plug well.

Also, usually the cost is just slightly more than one to buy two of something being cut/bent.

No first-hand knowledge of this one, but I'm certain the red cage snaps on and must be removed to do any re pinning. Most connectors are assembled with the pin inserted/removed from the rear instead of the mating surface. Very small allen wrenches are often adequate to release pins. They sell universal key sets on ebay. Draw the connector wiring on paper, take good pictures to show the color coding by each pin, then have no more than two de pinned at a time.

I suspect the 5th gear locking plate is out of adjustment. It is located on the right side of the trans about six inches fwd of the shifter and at the same height, so adjustment in the car should be easy with the tunnel cover removed. Nothing needs to be removed from the trans to make the adjustment. The two bolts on the plate are loosened so the plate can slide fore-aft, the shifter knob is deflected (normal shifting effort) to the right in neutral, and the bolts are snugged to 17 ft lbs.

Use padding that is thick in one direction instead of all the way around. There are other ways to attach it to the bar. I see the issue being just the extra width at the corners of the bar, that could leave you with wrinkles and possible flapping center. A local upholstery shop could notch and hem or add a little material if it is that bad a fit.

Looked over some pics of the intake system. I see that the idle speed is not automatically adjusted. Idle speed is controlled by the closed throttle stop. The idle speed adjustment should be the left screw under the #3 cyl butterfly. Loosen the jamb nut with a box end short wrench while holding the screw with an allen wrench, run and adjust hot idle, then lightly snug the nut while holding the allen wrench so the adjustment will hold. Better to adjust to a hot idle than a cold cranking idle that will rise too high after a a couple minutes of running. You will need to keep the throttle open when cold. A bit more crude than most carburetors. There are many ways to fashion a way to hold the throttle open slightly more when cold. There is a hex head, throttle cable end under #2 that is the cable slack adjustment. A barrel sleeve against a flat of the hex and secured with an allen screw, is removed to be able to rotate the adjuster. You should be able to wedge the throttle pedal to the floor by using a block at the top of the pedal, then adjust the cable end so there is a small amount of slack (i.e., you can rotate the butterflies at the rotating linkage slightly more with the pedal wedged) to prevent breaking the cable after a few cycles from fatigue. If you would like cockpit adjustable idle with this, an easy way to do that is to tee the vacuum ports on each runner together (three tees and one elbow connected with vacuum hose), then run a long vacuum hose to where you can get to it from the driver's seat. Doesn't need to be mounted to anything. Connect an adjustable aquarium valve to the end. You can put a small filter on the end or a tiny lawn and garden fuel filter in the middle somewhere if you wish. An evap cannister purge valve and wiring connector, placed near the engine with a toggle switch under the dash panel works too.

Remove the pedal box cover and make sure the throttle pedal end can move forward toward the pedal stop (i.e., the cable has slack if you lift the foot end of the pedal). #2 and 3 cylinder throttle plates seem to be open slightly more than 1 and 4. Treat this efi like a carburetor. On cold cranking, be in a position to pump and/or open the throttle to provide an input to the pectel to provide what would be an accelerator pump squirt into the engine. Cold engines need the same mixture as warm engines but less fuel makes it all the way, even with port efi. Don't assume the brief time between your key turning from RUN to START is enough to prime the fuel system. In it's current state, I suggest turning the key to RUN and leave it for two full seconds, off, then to RUN again for a full second before engaging the starter. When it starts hold the throttle open slightly to bring the rpm up to 1500 or so (this is after you correct the linkage as described previously). If the rpm does not rise, quickly pump the throttle once (and as needed while still cold) to prevent stalling. This is not a new Honda.

I'm confused by the question. They have one, two, three, and four barrel carbs that were often oem (since the '30s) and designed to replace other oems. The 5200 is another relatively small carb that was often used on big fours and called the "holley-weber".

I suggest covering the filter with a trash bag, tape rigid foam strips that will provide clearance for engine movement to prevent filter damage, hot glue the strips together and to the bonnet, then use oil base clay to build up the edges and smooth the surface for the final surface, then wax and pull a mold overlapping the bonnet by a couple inches. Pull the mold, then wax the inside to release. Add some gel coat (can be brushed, doesn't need to be sprayed) then lay in the glass using carefully measured, minimal mek for max working time. I use veterinary CC syringes for the mek and waxed painter mixing cups for the poly resin. Trim the cured panel to glass it on. This is more work than just building it up on the car but the end result will have little to no filler and be much lighter.

Many alternatives that could work well and no need to be locked into one choice as it is fairly easy to try different carbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/146433290179?_skw=weber+32&itmmeta=01JQ16QQWBVF15XN6KNCE63B1Y&hash=item22181aafc3:g:O-kAAOSwC1pnyekT&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c38loM35BjlYbYKhnEt6aUIlfvPCQnb%2FnED34I2mhpnhUwoiNiQNw0Kosf0zAs7Qb%2BsXLd1pgdMx9BrqZZiUU%2BFxJn9Qzoy9a5R%2F2JJYcimY9z9bs7CH80vxuZnvONg42MCxwRIcixn6%2FMmaMcCVrBHtyyMS9JfwjNEDrdlHji94x7Zr5Z9bj0Fcz5O4H3Jw8XHE%2B2qZrc4Shk%2Bf6V3DIze8SiGHNY9WpPjcM531nWHlRP3bGVfbyv4Ccd2qzgX1s%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8z-3qa4ZQ https://www.ebay.com/itm/155696545645?_skw=weber+32&itmmeta=01JQ18CHAAZRT52KCAD1HR15BB&hash=item24403cbf6d:g:mvwAAOSw671kyDCF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fYH8N3RxGpWlysDnhqgr77ZsMilvXVteV2TBMCfj4aXz1dYONh43mOkTxAtpwkUMNN4ZPS8uaft9oVpZBoJJ5qaqfavvl9dbNCTj65%2B0Pp8H%2BBe%2B1qX%2FNQAGp%2F9Mrf16s2AgAQwrdFHHMlAFBOoFG2Z8bnqn0ryRqHqOKYiZ1FlD7RaExWxYbQsLR0CBfKKVBMhs8OkPkm%2F1I4d9%2BcVepPWvKyxw7rc1%2FKIGoG9%2B5h2w%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7qVsqi4ZQ Vacuum secondary: https://www.ebay.com/itm/186687636673?_skw=weber+32&itmmeta=01JQ18CHACNQ2AYYSXNZC2MJW7&hash=item2b777344c1:g:qn8AAOSwuntm5zRp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cw5aGULwQ%2F1m8oXlTbUFd2aPN7bw9p1J8n5hb0K46hFuo44L8D1iD1ZDXJqPMciHUhMZwLMFbNf3nwXnqERSsvY%2B%2FUMMqQgbX6Er2qj3laWKBj%2BC836qPlP1uLtnTmHMom7G93w9mfzHCVzNPl1%2F4HkTWBSwe9d2Z1KswL0ocogtb9mUaJlCo2osZM%2BzuzOm6Id6TAGsIFDvrr9%2FTxYd5EVTqHT7cv1Z5Ke3j1OImX%2FA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8KVsqi4ZQ 26/34 vac secondary: https://www.ebay.com/itm/126145348242?_skw=weber+carb&itmmeta=01JQ1A583XHY6RMW5NG7S8GYBZ&hash=item1d5ed94292:g:QcIAAOSw4mNlMY4K&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fJzn2Wdqb1TpMYeb6%2BWaIGuHkF6C0yubewBcTlLbvyiI26LObK18aIup9ZB5i8cRfXmIV8LQBlbYbmBLCky4YYRi%2FdgCmDb%2BlAo%2FL0ERWuPrgnYQi5yDiCfgwQMM2wp85URaNxnunbQJmlZG7B9C1ob%2FoTCCWGhmpnytIiiqiNct3xY5YZtZAlVs8bV5ysPJLWphREzCc%2FVmqV1bBGlg2Mu08QwA6ZxQpUeWS6mClS2Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5qClaq4ZQ 32DMSA: https://www.ebay.com/itm/115920080749?_skw=weber+32&itmmeta=01JQ19KYDN37SHH1ND0JVFCRMJ&hash=item1afd600f6d:g:oxUAAOSwSbllCPXz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ffhjTNXuW71q2uOyh5%2Fdtei7M%2FoETAgqsZJPhKFvWaCKQ96s%2BN9WbFxBexRbd9YAoTLHSFdfRgA9KHMxLsjZI8Ox33ivhH%2BObddjXtHueDmLxCl0d9NtNnwS2TmrhEO%2F9qVWPZEHlMPdLNNE%2Ba9QvhvbbKkoL4%2FGpjOlcua%2FptOYzhcNPlJASpUEi7hab939t%2Fm%2FQj2rt%2Bj4Od%2FPdjJDutAsPqk0Oi7xeDq%2FGxBqpY5A%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5Lnz6m4ZQ 32DGAV missing choke sys: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176912233830?_skw=weber+32&itmmeta=01JQ18CHAD30A1HCA9NT8RTH7E&hash=item2930ca7566:g:sHoAAOSwH0tnz5EA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dbGpGpw3VxJEWJXEIRPVWrJ%2BcznfxxCBquwfBvNoVwDZnUF2QRv0yYoR5CcyACJ5MjOvBjr8IZ%2BBdRJvh0%2BhBweJPPrFAdQCF%2Fa9BhnzhHl0scMd9NXQsoNYZE7RUVGrGJaMKJbJUipfy%2BlS%2F3hXPbqyc6jmoVKDb6EOxi3ZH19UP%2B24Tt2QaxHf99ILkqC9YaR5IpF2vl5wOlCun7lIVdq7NL7yLYY86THID7HcMXCA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8aVsqi4ZQ Progressive 34/34 solex for early '70s BMW 2.0l: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124245437769?_skw=weber+32&epid=19046019328&itmmeta=01JQ192S14E73X0BT1XQGZCR1Q&hash=item1ced9aed49:g:UpwAAOSwaYVddAbw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ctQl18MNLnUgzwVwz1Xwmr3brZf4lpjlmv6hytCirhkCyreWrho0NSBgXF2Na4quiegYZMlceQeDvOnnB%2FLCzMVHiVn10%2B0cs2Tf4lqu0kj%2BzILRIGbUzl%2BD8V7b454Xw%2BclfmoUpbhNnPMiSAZW62GDVPvjPQjYIqzz2LGJ7XNI5PxYkpF6%2BzP481e7Uu4t92kqypQfH%2BXh5Dca3IdClDOudT7d7cF1AKmBYlZ8EeKf5l4kypimk%2FsP5bfWWOS18%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_CQi6m4ZQ Could also limit total secondary opening on a 32/36. Also, the Holley 2305 is a very good progressive using mostly standard holley parts but very hard to find now. The differences are in the metering block and base plate/linkage opposite the bowl side.

Like you said, what's done is done. You could remove the sausage filter assy and horns, then have a log air box made with a snorkel filter behind the head where there is more room or the oil filter moved. An integral hood scoop big enough for engine rocking clearance will seem huge, but a rigid, stainless screened cap over the sausage could be more durable/abrasion resistant with minimal restriction. Ideally, bike carbs with horizontal throats/level bowls would be used, with machined spacers between them to match port spacing so the runner length can be straight and minimal (shorter than webers), so the sausage and horns would fit within the bonnet. I noticed the radiator fins are bent blocking much airflow through the core. They can be straightened with tedious application of a small screw driver. Fwiw, not saying that is what happened, but never point a pressure washer at a radiator core.

Same circuit as the brake reservoir low fluid sensor. Either will cause the same indication.

If you find the threads are not 3/4-16 but M18-1.5, then wix 51040 is a direct replacement for the Vauxhall 93156954 filter. Even though it is technically a GM engine, specifications/standards can vary with the intended market. If you want a bypass type filter, wix 10398 is virtually identical but with an 8 psi safety valve. It is made for the hydraulic system on a bobcat excavator. Instead of using an undersized filter to fit the space available, you might consider a spin-on remote filter adapter on the block to a standard size remote filter mount and push lock hose.

I guess so. There have been wire wheels that were intended to be tubeless, by bonding rubber over the spoke nipples but that too, eventually fails plus no way to adjust tension without breaking the seal. They also have a bead retention shoulder made more important when running low pressure and tubeless. That may be why they recomend tubes. The area of the tubeless tire sidewall is the clamp to the bead, so low profiles combined with low pressure can turn ugly fast if you hit a pot hole.

The recommendation for tubes makes sense because, as we all know, "sports cars" have wire wheels. A tube holds air much longer than tubeless, no matter then rim type but are a must have for wire wheels that are full of holes and the rubber bands just protect the tube from the spoke ends. Since talc is no longer in baby powder, "tire talc" is available. I use a generous dusting of kaolin clay in the tire and all over the tube. Corn starch is a poor substitute. I've used those sizes and 155-13 as well (5 inch rim on an 1800# car). The differences are not massive, but I'd go with 175-70 for a 5.5 wide rim unless slightly lower cruise rpm is important to you and a little more feedback from uneven surfaces (increased scrub radius) is not.