MV8

In the rear of the head where the coolant is warmest and circulates hot and cold. Cap the heater ports

In regard to repacking, if the muffler uses a continuous center pipe attached at both ends (like a glass pack muffler), then you'll need to cut that as well to separate the two ends for access to repack. I would cut at the middle instead of near the end, cap one or both of the cut ends which forces the exhaust to go out the forward tube then back in the aft tube for much better sound damping than a straight through/glass pack. If you cut near the end, don't cap as it will be too restrictive through the shorter inner tube and just repack.

May help to indicate what year model R400, post some pictures of the fuse panel,relays, under the bonnet, and share voltages and ohms values versus "good" and "very good". I don't know what key position 1 and 2 are. The tps would have power to check voltage with the key in the RUN position. This also powers everything including ignition coils that will eventually overheat and fail if not allowed to discharge through the plugs, so they should have been unplugged. Was there a prior issue requiring adjustment of the tps? I guess you have a volt meter. If analog/swinging needle I suggest also having a digital model (DVM). A test probe with a bulb or led is very useful. A six foot 14 ga wire with alligator/roach clips on the ends is sometimes needed for system checks. I expect you need to recharge the battery as well.

Ditto on the reclocked offset for improved GC. Could also eliminate the muffler from the side and run only a rear transverse oval/turbo style. Cat sells the full length system or you can have it put together from mandel bent ss and the muffler(s) of your choice. Just getting the outlet behind the car should help. There was someone here who recently posted that they wanted to get rid of the full length system on their new car.

summit racing has a very good filter for narrowing the mufflers to what you need. Their prices for walkers are usually the best but shipping is the kicker.

What is the condition of the original springs? Too much work to restore?

I assume these are the GS4-2030 dampers for the front without adjustable seats and they have 8.5" between the seats. It is rare to find a coilover spring application that doesn't require compression to install (not counting owner modifications with high rate short springs). The rate should be 95# with a free length of 12.43" and 9" between the seats. EDIT. 12.43"-9"= 3.43"x95#= 325.85# on the seats, /125#=2.6068"+ 8.5"=11. 1". Use an external spring compressor and you should be fine at fully extended but it will still sit high. Note the seat rate is reduced by the motion ratio of the suspension. Adjustable seats would have allowed you to set the ride height independent of the spring rate.

It depends on how much work you can do. The inlet appears to not be parallel to the case. Here are some mufflers that could be adapted (should have a cover as they are not made to be pretty/smooth) or you can import one that is a direct fit. If you'd like to repack and don't mind a little fab, the case could be cut about an inch from the end, a strip of .050" or so sheet about 1.5 inches wide can be rolled to fit half way in to the forward case, the case drilled for a few spot welds to hold it in place, then the cap added, outlet correctly clocked, then a few #10x3/8 or so pan head sheet metal screws added to hold it on. Touch up with flat exhaust or barbecue paint to hide the serviceability. Packing material is common. Metal supermarkets is one place you can buy sheet metal in these thickness cut to the size you need. I bought some at my local shop yesterday for a continuous cement mixer I am building because I didn't have time to get a truck to pickup a full sheet at my normal supplier. You can almost bend the metal by hand but it is easier to use the pipe and body to get the right shape. I don't think any of the direct fit replacements will be as quiet as your repacking or using an ugly oem type.

Pipe od in and out, case od and length, and if inlet or outlet is offset from center.

How about some close pics of the ends? Do you have the heat shield that hides the muffler? Is it riveted together or welded? Pipe diameters and muffler length? It can be repacked or replaced. Covered/hidden allows a standard, quieter muffler to be fitted.

Hello, "My Lotus Seven" is the name of the video I found on youtube. Sorry for the confusion.

I understand. Much isn't covered/reported. What is initially covered is only preliminary. In a couple years a report will come out that may not be newsworthy compared to covering celebrity drama.

I'm saying they are likely much more than 100wh. I understand reading and trusting the label on a product. Everyone is putting a lot of faith in unvetted mfg "specs" and those acting reasonably (and with immunity) by reading the same label. Many examples of false advertising out there. If there is an incident based on your lithium jump starter, while specs (listed by Temu, the mfg, etc) may help mitigate a civil penalty, also consider civil for claimed injuries (like toxic smoke inhalation). A same spec model would likely be tested by an independent lab to see if it is within limits. China did not bring it on the plane. Just something to think about.

It is rate of discharge and not that it would be operating for an hour. I don't know of any jump box that is ok to fly commercial. Watt hours = voltage x amp hours. Amp hours = discharge rating (usually 5C for lithium, 1C or less for lead acid) x available amps. Battery charger/power supply assemblies can be similar in size but very different from jumpbox in discharge rate. The specs I've seen are often incomplete or the info provided doesn't add up. https://www.faa.gov/hazmat/packsafe/lithium-batteries https://www.power-sonic.com/what-is-a-battery-c-rating/

For public road use, protect your head/nose/eyes with a helmet or a windshield to catch stones thrown from the traffic ahead. Less of an issue with normal height vehicles.