jbcollier

In theory, parts for "vintage" cars are duty-free. Good luck explaining that to the broker if you're not business specializing in vintage car repair.

We are not talking about importing vehicles, just parts.

I’m neither right wing nor left but I can’t abide stupidity and incompetence.

Because that is what the US administration is demanding. It is such a weird way of doing things that no postal service in the world is set up for it. That’s why they paused all shipments to the US. So they collect the fees and prepay them to the US. Who does the shipper go to when there is an issue? Who is responsible for refunds if it is returned or rejected? Is there any $&@# refund?

Do you have any idea of the paperwork and filings the US is now asking for before you can ship to the US? I think you're lucky they are going to all that bother on your behalf. I'm sure lots of places will just drop their US business.

The duties, taxes AND tariffs have to be paid up front before Canada Post will accept a package headed to the US.

Repair your original. These kits work with either negative or positive ground. https://clocks4classics.com

Just so, you know, the rules just changed and now I have to pre-pay the duties in advance to mail something to the US. It gets better, the US doesn't consider Canada Post worthy to collect their duties so I have to go through a different company just to pay the duties. Once I have proof that the duties have been paid, Canada Post will then accept it. Do I sell new things into the US? No. But I did send used parts, loan tools, etc quite frequently in the past. Not now. I'm not going to go through all the rigamarole to explain to someone who hasn't a clue why some tool I'm lending shouldn't have duties assessed. Sorry guys, I love you, but I don't love you that much...

The cylinder is not under pressure until it is operating the clutch. Just sitting, yours is slowly weeping. Push on the clutch, the hydraulics pressurize, and your seep grows exponentially.

I was going to write a reasoned reply but I'd rather talk about Sevens. YMMV

If you pump on the pedal to "pressure test" it, it will simply extend, not build pressure. Worse, it could over-extend and come apart. I'm a retired 35 year mechanic. I don't see any reason to pressure test. Just a fit it and tighten the lines properly and it will be fine.

You need to clamp it so it can't extend. I'm only going to say this one more time, replace the slave cylinder. After that, on your own head be it.

If you are in there, replace it. Have a good hard look at the clutch, engine rear main seal and tranny input seal.

Mine were ok: torn boots but the joints tight. I drilled them for grease nipples -- not very effective as there are no grooves for the grease to flow through -- and fit new boots retained with wire -- old boots were slip-on and now hard to find. I bought a set of replacement arms from Mike Brotherhood against the evil day when the joints are worn. They are the usual replacements with adjustable camber.

nope, Moss is no longer carrying them. Google "Mintex MGB533".

I run a set of BCC calipers on my Europa. Work well, vert well. And, fit under the stock 13" steel wheels. No plans to convert the Seven as of yet.

They've changed up their numbers and material offerings. The new number is MGB533. They are available.

Google "Mintex 1144 for Triumph Spitfire" for a variety of options. Moss, for one, carries them.

Albeit driving hard and descending on a precipitous mountain pass, I have had the green stuff pads fade on me. It was quite exciting. I switched to Mintex 1144.

Fit a repair kit from these people: https://clocks4classics.com Works a treat.

Because BAT resets the clock after every bid, there is no advantage to waiting until the last few seconds.

As mentioned, this is typical on differentials: all fine. For future reference, it is normal for a similar amount of excess to be pushed out inside as well as outside. In an engine, this is not good. Chunks may break away and get where they shouldn't*. Use silicone sealer sparingly. You want enough, not too much. More is not better. Also, gear oils can attack many engine-oil safe silicone sealers. Use one that is rated for gear oil. * Had a Maserati BiTurbo come in that had been "overhauled" with the addition of silicone sealer. Some broke away and plugged the oil passage to one of the heads. While barrelling down the highway at a prodigious rate of knots, the cams decided they no longer wished to rotate. It wasn't pretty.

Well, it almost worked! The 80 lb spring is softer but requires significant preload due to its "short" 14" length. Once it is wound up, you are pretty much back where you started. I would need 80 lb 16" springs. I put the 100 lb springs back in as I'm driving down to the Calgary car meet with my good, albeit quite substantial, friend. I have a set of 75 lb, 16" springs I'll try next.

Fur-flex is used in the interiors of “older-style” British cars like the Austin Healey, older Triumphs, etc. British parts suppliers sell it by the meter/yard.

Wow, mine is "claret" as well. I was sure that meant it was a PO hack. Live and learn. Thanks.