slowdude

And oil in. 4.5 or so liters. 2.6L came out (filled out my OJ jug) hmmm.

@MV8 https://youtube.com/shorts/NBmsL-1Yoeg?feature=share Video of it running. Original oil out of it now:

Hey All, If this is still happening in about a month or so (not ideal), I might be able to have items forwarded to my address in Germany from the UK, then I can mail via DHL (just as a heads up it's super freaking expensive), but if it's not a massive massive box, it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm in the same boat. Slow and patience and having the right tool for the job has helped. I'm seeing a similar trend of "two steps forward, one step back" with these cars. I'm sure it can make you crazy trying to trace it down. For now I am trying to drive it as much as I can and make a mental list of items to replace for the September track day. I hope you don't go too crazy trying to fix everything. There will always be a rattle, or when doing 80 and passing by a truck the car gets blasted by the wind and you wonder if suspension is going etc. I hope you get a chance to bond with the car soon and get some miles in!

Going out to flush with a 5w-40 in a bit, then change to a 5w-50 with new filter (2x). Maybe this Will help out. Paperwork says oil was changed last year. Reached out to Phil in Clifton to see if he'd take a look at the tappets + new timing belt. I saw he just went through an S1 Elise with a rover K series, so hoping he can get into the head and clean / replace the tappets, if needed / they don't quiet down. Dave at DVA power recommended checking them out as well. Hunt goes on, thank you all for your input and help!

I think you're spot on. Good thing I have some oil filters. I'm seeing a lot of oil recommendations for k series engines, some as low as 0w-50. It's supposed to rain this weekend, so I can get an oil change in. I'm thinking there aren't many k series engine people stateside?

And big update. Rear calipers/pads/radius arms /dedion ears all replaced and torqued. New axle nuts done as well. Rust proofed as much of the chassis rails as I could, then coated with por-15 or encapsulator. Front hubs were salvaged with new threads, plus new bearings packed in the hubs. Front calipers froze immediately after getting off the car, so will be rebuilt for the winter. Put a replacement pair of spitfire calipers on from moss. Did a big bleed session and have put about 100 miles on it since finishing this work on Tuesday. I put new bolts / washers / nuts to replace the old seat bolts which were 4 different types of bolts/ washers, plus a new SFI Schroth harness. Thank you to everyone who offered advice and guidance. I truly appreciate the community and hope I can give back in the future. The only outstanding items now are: A-arm replacement Radiator replacement (original from 1994) Valve tappets (super noisy and a bit of a concern it could lead to oil loss. Better to be preventative on this, but this is outside of my capabilities. I drove it to work- you can barely see the rollbar above the hood of an X3 or X4. Very similar to driving a motorcycle, no one sees you or understands what you're able to do.

I'm an hour and 45 from you, but have the seats in leather, non sv (same as croc mentioned).

Will absolutely be in - anyone who wants to caravan from Northern jersey, holler.

Hmm, I'll try and flag him down next time I see him. Looked like a newer 310/360, the bright orange with black wheels near APC.

Are you on here? Saw you on my way into work the other day.

Grab the paper catalog If you can, they have the schematics for the hubs- it helped me. I had a shop press the old bearings out and press the new ones in. I think it was 60$ or so, well worth it knowing it was done better than I would have. Packed the bearing and put the new seal on. Soft piece of pine and some hammer did the trick for the seal.

This gave me anxiety when I pulled mine off, fiddling with the races and I was able to figure it out, but I had the same response. My replacements came with races / felt seals (too big so back to moss for new ones). They sent me some more so I'm curious to see how it goes. Did you get the moss spitfire catalog? Those parts diagrams are perfect.

And another update. Needed to setup the garage with some integral items. HF bench grinder with brass wheel has helped take a lot of surface rust off old bolts. Today I was able to get the old ear off + bearing and fit brakes / hub / bearings/ de dion ear. Thankfully the inside of the de dion tube was nice and clean... no evidence of water. Some sealant for around the de dion ears should keep it that way. A-arm needs total replacement. Gunked the bolt over for now and will use encapsulator when ready to replace A arm. Currently waiting on machine shop to put helicoil in the one bad hub, and on a thin 15mm wrench to put pads in. Getting much closer!

Hey Scotticus, I hope this helps: 1. They're not sealed, so they need packing every 2 years or so from what I have read. Mine looked pretty shot so it was cheaper to just replace. 2. The upgrade bearings I am looking at cannot be pressed as there is a new, non tapered stub axle, which requires new hubs etc. 3. There is no felt dust seal on the new upgraded bearings (from my research)

Hey All, I should have replaced things in twos. I have a like new hub (with pressed bearing races), and I have my old semi hub with pressed bearing races. One of the threads is absolutely destroyed, which I found out after putting the rotor on and realizing it would not tighten. Maybe I stripped it taking it off, not sure. So, I have an excellent deal for someone who wants to replace their front wheel bearings + a hub. I have a new triumph to ford hub, photo below, along with packed bearings, new felt seals and axle grease + the old hub. I've sank 250 easy into this, I'd take 150 for it, I'm just going to do the full spindle upgrade with the new bearings rather than sink another $100 or so into having a machine shop fix the stripped thread on the older hub. The price for me is getting to where I should just do the upgrade and have the peace of mind. Shipping from NJ, or we can deliver along the I95 corridor up to Boston. Any questions, feel free to ask.

Yes! Absolutely. I'm HQ'd in southern Germany, Salzburg ring is a few hours and worth the jaunt. I've done the ring, so Spa /Zaandvort / Monza would be worth the rides. Appreciate the advice!

Fantastic, thank you, on plan for booking. I'm wondering if I do something stupid and buy a car over there for a bit.

Hey All, Wondering If anyone has some advice for watching 24 hours of lemans in person? Work is sending me back to Europe for a few months, and the dates I chose happened to overlap with some events going on over there. 😀 I was wondering If anyone had any experience with the race, specifically the public viewing areas, the massive clogs of public roads etc. Any tips or tricks etc. I'm going to rent a 5 series wagon from work for cheap and sleep in the car, and will bring some food etc. Any advice truly accepted!

My import friendly(ish) caterham search. https://www.carandclassic.com/classic_cars.php?category=3&make=65&sort_1=latest&year_to=1998 14 cars up to 1998, starting at 15k GBP, and going up to 40k GBP.

I'd say the cheap sticky felt you can get for the bottom of furniture too. Stick to the back of the plate / move points.

We need photos of your progress!

Echoed everything I dealt with importing. I have an autoscout24 search I can send over and I can do an ebaykleinanzeigung as well.

Yep! Tough part is it's a much smaller selling pool for a Riley over here... so less in my pocket afterwards.