slowdude

263, but I think I cracked 52k miles on the car. Next year!

If they are their own insurer, prices will remain the same or go up, but their spread on the insurance products will go up?

Congratulations on the new ride!

I may need you to swing by the house next week and pick up the ecu for me. Will keep you posted. I dont trust many.

In Orlando for about a month this December. Holler if you need a second set of hands to get some work done.

Well bought at 32k. Hope to see the buyer on here.

You, because i like watching how strong and powerful you are. 😍😍😍

I use an overpriced tiguan (macan) and a uhaul trailer. The macan can handle 4k, and with the car and the uhaul trailer, it was fine. Two hours and some highway driving, the 4cyl pulled fine at 75mph. I guess what I am trying to say is that any modern, compact SUV with a 4k rating should be more than enough. Most Americans do not need f150s etc to tow these things, look at Europe, they tow these with station wagons. Since you cant store a trailer, perhaps realistically looking at how many track days you go to a year vs getting a uhaul is more cost effective. Figure a new trailer is $6,000, plus insurance and storage in your case. A uhaul trailer for me for a weekend was $90. That is something like 65 track day weekends to break even on your 6k trailer purchase, not including your monthly storage.

I use alpinestars moto stuff. I just picked up a tech air offroad system that I love. That being said, the lower cost alpinestars stuff has definitely gone down hill in quality. Theyre not the company they were 10-15 years ago. I dont know if id invest in their car gear. I have wide feet, so having a narrow shoe helps a lot in these cars. Given pricing, $400 is your money to burn. I glady pay for quality, but its not there at that price. Me personally, I wear SFI rated pilotis I bought on sale for $50. Theyre running a black friday deal too, where you can get some good driving shoes for under $100. https://piloti.com/products/cruise-black-red

https://necksgen.com/ Figured id pass this along for anyone who is looking for a Hans device for their track days. Hint hint, NJMP requires this for their track days.

I'm going to post photos of the new ecu on my Instagram and tag you in it 99 times @Croc. Challenge accepted. Plus I owe @CBuff a ride up to phoencia diner via frost valley road.

Gives me significant time to lose my mind chasing issues on mine. Will be there!

Dude, awesome, love to see this!

I have too many sensors. I went ham. I now have a small k series warehouse on the east coast.

F350 in good shape?

Ive narrowed my issue down to a faulty coolant temp sensor to the ecu or a capacitor issue in my ecu. I can drive for 20 minutes fine no problem, car will misfire and cut power. Key off and on resets the car and it drives no problem. So its an input issue or an ecu issue. Cant be heatsoak as theres no cool off period, and the car runs fine. Im the same as you. I dont want a power cut at the worst possible time. Only thing I can think of is its having an issue fueling. Giving it more air via the throttle body indicates a fueling issue -> youre giving it more air to lean out the mixture. If you can, grab a stand alone wideband sensor and gauge and see what happens when the misfire starts. My AFR for example is fine when my misfire happens, so I know its fueling OK and intake is set OK. I check ignition in ecu and its OK too, so it has to be input or control system.

I've been chasing similar ish issues on a separate chassis for the better part of a year and a half. Going back through this: 1. Grounds are good? 2. Lambda is new? 3. Plugs are new? 4. AFR is good? Since the ECU controls timing, and you haven't touched the mechanical timing? You should be fine. I'm re-watching your videos-> your fuel is pulling 20% more to adjust for the lambda. I'm wondering if your fuel pressure is low, and the car is sending fuel pump to push more fuel through. I say that because your plugs were getting fouled despite the lambda saying youre at stoich, and timing we can rule out. I'd rule out the master switch. The car runs normally, it just acts up, if the master switch was toast, you'd have trouble firing up and driving. It leads me to think two things, which I'm also going through. ECU has gone silly, and lost calibration of sensors. Or, your fuel pump has something going on (fuel trim, and black plugs despite the AFR being "OK").

MEK100030 "black type" coolant sensors. X2 MEK100060 "brown type" coolant sensors x2 MEK100061 "brown type" coolant sensors x1 For EU1/2/3 engines, Minis, other rover applications. Paid duties etc, my loss your gain. Asking $25 each + shipping, 2 available.

Motorcyclist, two hands down is just an acknowledgement of you also being a fellow rider. Getting it in a car is quite a feat, usually means you have something really cool. Peace sign back is perfectly acceptable. @Vovchandr knows whats up too!

ordered an AIT sensor from UK. 35$ and $40 in tariffs. woooooooooo

Crb was like $20. Its a ford part, the input shaft is modified to fit the rover. Since i was in there, I did flywheel, clutch and basket. I belive it was actually a Vauxhall part from QED. I did the crb in and out in a morning with help from a member here. It helped that I prepped the car the night before by disconnecting intake and exhaust, removing coolant etc. If youre paying a shop, its a fairly simple job due to the car being simple. Shops will charge a good amount. One thing I would have done is check the clutch fork pivot. Mine rattles like a bastard bc the bushing is shot. Would definitely replace it.

Agreed. Coils dont blow for the giggles of it. Mine blew bc I shorted something by accident.

All of my lights on my dashboard light up with the lights on.

Hmmm, what is causing the coil to blow. Alternator? Grounding?

AEM or Amazon have stand alone AFR gauges. @NSXguy has a similar standalone setup on his kent. @IamScotticus, those AFRs seem very rich. I just got my wideband (Spartan) setup off my emerald and its running to AFR targets setup by my engine builder for my cams. My idle is at 14.5, through to 13.2 at full throttle for when the cams come on. Over 14 is OK, its when you get above 15 that you risk running leaner. Running super rich at idle (especially at start up - sub 14), you risk carbon build up due to intake/exhaust valves. Anything around stoich should be fine. Since youre not running an ecu to measure voltage on the sensor, check the manual of whatever sensor you get and see if there is a calibration process. Make sure you also check which wideband it is, there are a lot of 4.2 clones, while most newer widebands can run 4.9 and 4.2's. Check the manual as well for the sensor heater, so you know when the sensor is ready to go so you dont fry it. Make sure the sensor isnt wet and cold or it will fry. I just spent too much time learning about all of this with my emerald ECU, but I am very happy with how it turned out.