slowdude

I had to switch to PC mode. Can't add to cart. Oh well.

Sheesh, gorgeous with the lighting.

You can fit the standard tonneau on under the doors. You don't have to tuck the doors on. Alternatively you can put the doors in the passenger footwell under the tonneau. In semi cold weather I run doors and a tonneau. If it's not going to rain, it's a good way to keep heat in under 50F.

She will be a riot on the track and a big grin the entire time. These cars just grip.

Top as in close to me? Barely have to push it in to change gear, it's rattling something awful (sounds like pilot bearing), plus I caught a slipping smell the other day. I should have done it when the engine was out but I figured 38k miles the clutch was OK. I'm reading the K series to the T9 box bearing needs to be a certain size and QED has the right size bearings in. Waiting to see if their clutch kit is all inclusive or I need to do a piecemeal order.

Make sure your importer gets the CBP75xx form so you show compliance with EPA to get it registered.

Paid. Now to do a track day beforehand to see if I can justify a new clutch.

Yes but isn't this in more of a suspended in a salt situation? For example, my lead keel sailboat has a sacrificial zinc anode which solves the problem.

Any reccomendation for track insurance? Go right to an underwriter instead of a broker?

Its a normal battery. I have a banner AGM. The Noco/ctek is smart enough to recognize it is an AGM and it adjusts accordingly. My battery is 3 years old and it has been on a noco genius the entire time. When the car was having open heart surgery, it died. Put it on the noco and a day later it was good. My coil recently died and I thought it was battery related. Brought it to advance auto for them to test it. Was at 99%. The smart chargers will be fine. If it was a lithium battery, sure proceed with more caution, but AGM is fine 🙂

Regarding maintenance: I'm coming up on close to 3000 miles on the car since the engine rebuild in November. In the northeast. When I drove the car in winter, I washed the undercarriage and made sure it wasn't when there was salt on the road. Car was POR15/ Eastwood encapsulated before I went out. No issues with keeping it looking nice. I wash the car once every 2 weeks or after a 500 mile trip. Simple harbor freight spray gun with meguirs wash and wax. Nothing fancy. These cars are surprisingly robust and if you have a ford engine, it makes life a lot easier. Drive it, modify it any way you see fit, smile. They're best when driven. It's ok if they sit. Like others have mentioned, noco genius is the way to go. Simple to attach and will make life easier. If you don't drive it for a few months (in winter), put some fuel stabilizer in it. Other than that they're fine, even with my temperamental K series.

I'm new to my 7 on the track but not new to this track with the old layout. 6x Lemons races here with 140 other cars on track. Have done multiple bike track days too. Is it OK if I do the morning session in green group as I need to get used to the car on the track? Is it possible to move up to passing group? Or should I just book separate days?

Yep seats aren't too bad for long rides. For gas in my S3 I'm averaging 25MPH on an 8 gallon tank, so about 200 miles range.

#3 & #5: https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlights-h4-philips-z-es-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v Literally take a screw out and plug them in where the bulb goes. No need to re-wire anything or spend the $200/$300/$400 solution which everyone seems to do. You're right about driving like a motorcycle. Assume no one sees you and always keep your eyes up.

Sent you a PM with more details. Holler if you need help.

Echoing others as I recently went down the rabbit hole on this. Check easy stuff first, resistance through plugs and coils, making sure that it's sparking. Then check FPR and fuel pump. I don't think it would be fuel pump because all cylinders would be impacted. I'd lean more towards measuring the resistance of the injectors, it's possible an injector is gummed up.

A BDR? You lucky dog. Exciter to see more of it. I'm in the Newport area 6x a year or so. Should be more but I'm working on my fueling. When I'm in town I'll send you a note, would be nice to get 2 together and do CT 49 or up through scituate. I can also come up and help out, as RI is pretty small. Welcome!

You drove it with no problem before. I think we need another greater NYC tri-state christening. I'd be down for a hawks nest meetup..

I hear that. Glad to hear you're back in business!

Update / I think closure on this thread. Car is back together with O2 sensor in, and took it for a drive. Car was driving fine and not running rich. I think I've done about everything I can do except for the noisy flywheel/clutch which is apparently a common item for these. I've done just about everything I could, that the previous 8 owners have not, plus did some upgrades for reliability. At some point I'll do the front bushings and suspension, but for now, everything is in order to enjoy the car.

Oh man, blogs were a good read. I had some chuckles. I hope you're getting some serious mileage on it now!

I was doing some research and that it seems that the bosch sensors need to be minimum 10% of exhaust length from collection point. This helps a lot - if you're not getting any bad readings (when you do the install), it may debunk that research. I went a bit further back and I'm right in front of the shroud. Thank you for this.

Sorry to necro-post this. @inchoate, did you wind up going after the clamp? Or did you clamp and then use exhaust cement? How did you route the wiring?

You could try intermecancia in mamaroneck. He knows the cars and the emerald ecus. He did work on my car that I'm happy with. I'm currently going through some emerald stuff in Northern Morris County so if you find someone more local let me know.

A multimeter has been my best friend with this car.