slowdude

Are you on here? Saw you on my way into work the other day.

Grab the paper catalog If you can, they have the schematics for the hubs- it helped me. I had a shop press the old bearings out and press the new ones in. I think it was 60$ or so, well worth it knowing it was done better than I would have. Packed the bearing and put the new seal on. Soft piece of pine and some hammer did the trick for the seal.

This gave me anxiety when I pulled mine off, fiddling with the races and I was able to figure it out, but I had the same response. My replacements came with races / felt seals (too big so back to moss for new ones). They sent me some more so I'm curious to see how it goes. Did you get the moss spitfire catalog? Those parts diagrams are perfect.

And another update. Needed to setup the garage with some integral items. HF bench grinder with brass wheel has helped take a lot of surface rust off old bolts. Today I was able to get the old ear off + bearing and fit brakes / hub / bearings/ de dion ear. Thankfully the inside of the de dion tube was nice and clean... no evidence of water. Some sealant for around the de dion ears should keep it that way. A-arm needs total replacement. Gunked the bolt over for now and will use encapsulator when ready to replace A arm. Currently waiting on machine shop to put helicoil in the one bad hub, and on a thin 15mm wrench to put pads in. Getting much closer!

Hey Scotticus, I hope this helps: 1. They're not sealed, so they need packing every 2 years or so from what I have read. Mine looked pretty shot so it was cheaper to just replace. 2. The upgrade bearings I am looking at cannot be pressed as there is a new, non tapered stub axle, which requires new hubs etc. 3. There is no felt dust seal on the new upgraded bearings (from my research)

Hey All, I should have replaced things in twos. I have a like new hub (with pressed bearing races), and I have my old semi hub with pressed bearing races. One of the threads is absolutely destroyed, which I found out after putting the rotor on and realizing it would not tighten. Maybe I stripped it taking it off, not sure. So, I have an excellent deal for someone who wants to replace their front wheel bearings + a hub. I have a new triumph to ford hub, photo below, along with packed bearings, new felt seals and axle grease + the old hub. I've sank 250 easy into this, I'd take 150 for it, I'm just going to do the full spindle upgrade with the new bearings rather than sink another $100 or so into having a machine shop fix the stripped thread on the older hub. The price for me is getting to where I should just do the upgrade and have the peace of mind. Shipping from NJ, or we can deliver along the I95 corridor up to Boston. Any questions, feel free to ask.

Yes! Absolutely. I'm HQ'd in southern Germany, Salzburg ring is a few hours and worth the jaunt. I've done the ring, so Spa /Zaandvort / Monza would be worth the rides. Appreciate the advice!

Fantastic, thank you, on plan for booking. I'm wondering if I do something stupid and buy a car over there for a bit.

Hey All, Wondering If anyone has some advice for watching 24 hours of lemans in person? Work is sending me back to Europe for a few months, and the dates I chose happened to overlap with some events going on over there. 😀 I was wondering If anyone had any experience with the race, specifically the public viewing areas, the massive clogs of public roads etc. Any tips or tricks etc. I'm going to rent a 5 series wagon from work for cheap and sleep in the car, and will bring some food etc. Any advice truly accepted!

My import friendly(ish) caterham search. https://www.carandclassic.com/classic_cars.php?category=3&make=65&sort_1=latest&year_to=1998 14 cars up to 1998, starting at 15k GBP, and going up to 40k GBP.

I'd say the cheap sticky felt you can get for the bottom of furniture too. Stick to the back of the plate / move points.

We need photos of your progress!

Echoed everything I dealt with importing. I have an autoscout24 search I can send over and I can do an ebaykleinanzeigung as well.

Yep! Tough part is it's a much smaller selling pool for a Riley over here... so less in my pocket afterwards.

Same, bonus hits next week, so do I import another and flip? 🤷‍♂️ or pull the trigger on a Riley I've been looking at.

The sum of the parts will be much more expensive than buying a used one, unless you go the build your own route. There is/was an incomplete roller on car and classic for 7500GBP without a vin plate. If you're really interested in an imperial chassis, why not just import? They're cheaper than buying in the US, but you dont know what youre going to get until it gets here. Caterham Seven 1.6K Series, 5 Speed De Dion, 1998.   For Sale https://www.carandclassic.com/pwa/classifieds/C1523264 If it's the assembly part you're looking for, you'll get that via the routine maintenance. 😊

Thank you for the detailed write up and pictures. Super helpful compared to some of the build blogs I have found. For the superlube 82003, was that included in the kit or the reccomendation to seal from the forum. Heading out to do this job this weekend / next week.

The MK2 GT1600 in federal spec used disk brakes. I have a dual circuit disk brakes in all 4 corners. It's either off an MK1 GT, or a lower spec MK1-2. MK3s were only sold here for a year or so, so finding parts would be hard. Enfostuff forum may have some connections for you.

My wife bought me a racing wheel and shifter for Christmas. It was the base Logitech at the time. While not anywhere close to driving a car in real life, mounting the shifter on the left side really helped with muscle memory for the H pattern, I found my 2 - 3 shift really improved after using the sim wheel and shifter. It's really not that bad, and RHD is a little wierd for left hand turns with an SUV next to you, but just be patient, like riding a motorcycle etc.

Welcome to the RHD crew!

Completely agreed. Given Toyota is sharing development / production etc with Suzuki, the business case is much more favorable than if they were to do it alone (supra/Z4), etc. Less vehicles to sell to be profitable, easier decision to produce. Looking forward to it. Any new sports car in the world is good by me.

This, friend is on the originating side of spacs, be real curious to see. As with most spacs we will probably see a 25-75% spike and then a spectacular crash to $2. I'm a casual to the stock market- would be interested if there were holder perks like Berkshire or Ford..

So my temporary work car has done the 6k miles in 4 months that it needed to do. The hail damaged 3 series is set to go. I was able to find an X3M40i in Boston Green Metallic (same color as the Cat- it's a BMW individual color), but individual colors are off limits to employees (even though the car is a dealer reject- customer ordered it and then backed out). So instead, I was able to find another green BMW, which I pick up on thursday. I'll give you all a hint. It's (naturally a BMW) with 4 doors and has a green / tan build. Any guesses? @NSXguy I think I posted it to IG, so you're exempt!

Happy for Doug to see this big ticket happen. I'm concerned we are seeing a boom in auto auction sites, similar to what is happening in the beauty industry... rapid valuation and VC investment only for there to be too many players in the space. (Looking forward to hagertys auction plan as they poached a lot of RM people). Doug got out at the right time.

The first car my parents ever bought new was a 2002 ford escape, with the V6. It did a little over 350k miles and 17 years on the original motor and a refurbished Trans. Rust eventually killed it. Absolutely fond memories, and yours will run forever.