Timothy Keith-Lucas

Bad news that Chris M. has not come though in eight months. I have a complete set of Series 2 fiberglass on order from him.

Same here. Whole drawer full. But the point is the self-adjusting part. I use/carry them big time.

A pair of CH Hanson self adjusting locking pliers is valuable in that case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N8N5JNV/ref=syn_sd_onsite_desktop_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pf_rd_p=eece463e-9765-4c82-95e6-6bb6969aa564&pf_rd_r=S8BMX1N3M6V8DM4F90VH&pd_rd_wg=uGyuL&pd_rd_w=GOLUj&pd_rd_r=d4ca0193-8260-4745-8621-0a2e7684fda5&aref=gbejHMbwzT

The rivets I'm trying to remove at present are at the back edge of the engine compartment in front of the windshield. Twenty of them, with the goal of getting behind the instrument panel for re-wiring. I think I've found (with a lot of help in this thread, thank you) a way that works, at least in this situation: 1. with a sharp spike(a carbide scribe in my case) drive the mandrel back into the rivet, so a drill bit has a starting point. 2. with an oversized drill bit cut off the head of the rivet without drilling through the first plate. 3. With a pin punch drive out the rivet. So far, so good.

I think the point is that the tiles are only 1/4 inch or so thick, so add tiles under the wheels to achieve a level surface. I've used 1/4" plywood squares to level an airplane for weighing; same idea.

These are tiny and very tight rivets. I think I'll try a sharp chisel and see if they will shear off. If not, I could hold them from spinning with the same chisel and drill as you suggest. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I injured my wrist a few days ago, so there's going to be a pause in Lotus work.

I ran a string alignment yesterday based on the brake/stud drums, with the tires and fenders off. It appears that I have a tiny toe-in in the front wheels, and that the frame is straight. I'm a bit surprised, given that when I removed the fenders I found one rear fender had been torn off the body at some point, probably in her 1960s racing history. I'm going to go with that when I get her back together, and then watch the tire wear very carefully. Failure to do that got me into this problem. My thanks to everyone who has contributed to this discussion. Have a wonderful turkey day if you are in the USA. --Tim.

Is there a secret to removing pop rivets? I want to remove two panels with 48 rivets each and one with 20. I can drill out some of them, but others spins with the drill bit. I've considered but not tried grinding the tops off, but that would be very delicate work. Thoughts? You wonderful folks are giving me a rapid education in 7 renewal.

What a wonderful discussion! I've learned a lot in the process. Thanks, guys.

It turns out that i did have wear on both front tires, just not as badly on the right as the left. I'm hoping that the loose steering rod locking nut, and subsequent extreme toe in, is all of the problem.

Thank you. I did a string alignment yesterday. The problem was obvious - somehow when I replaced the steering shaft I loosened the locking nut on the left steering arm, and it unwound itself. At present, the left side is straight, with no toe in. On the right side, when the front wheels are straight, the rear wheel toes in by about 1/8 inch from rear tire rear bulge to rear tire front bulge. Is there a way to correct that? The question about bushings is interesting. The ones in the front end appear to be original (1962), but there is no wobble in the steering or in the front wheels when they are on stands. The bushings in the steering universal joint were worn out. I replaced them when I installed a telescoping steering shaft. That got rid of all the steering play.

I just noticed that my left front tire is badly worn, unlike the others, despite my not experiencing any pull to either side. Are there instructions somewhere for aligning the front end? I don't imagine that the commercial shops, with their computerized and laser loaded by the make and model alignments are going to be much help.

There is a source! Wow. My suspicion is that the original owner took some dings on the race track and patched it up. Replacement looks like a good deal. Thanks a bunch, folks.

Is the a source for wings to fit my 1962 S2? It's going to be a daunting task to get mine smooth enough to satisfy my restoration painter, and before I start sanding, I'd like to see if they can be replaced. Thanks.

As soon as I fallowed Iamscotticus's recommendation by asking for a new specific photograph, two supposed owners ghosted me. Thanks for the help, guys.

Damned good ideas, folks. Thank you.

Aa soon as I expressed an interest, an advertised Seven moved from Kentucky to Oregon. By itself, am I right in suspecting a scam?

Oh. Threaded stud. Tighten one nut against another nut at the top, or weld one on.

Not a new issue to anyone who owns a steel boat. It's a graduated system. First, penetrant overnight (I use Knock'er Loose), Then slightly tighten before trying to loosen, with a 1/4" impact driver being a helpful tool. Then a torque wrench so you don't shear that sucker, then propane-level heat to burn off sticky stuff, then oxy/acetylene level heat to a dull red. I haven't met one that didn't yield by then. Just be careful that you don't heat it too much - you don't want to melt it.

This is a very informative thread. Thank you. I'm going to try one of the alternatives when I do a rebuild this coming winter. My attachments for the snout are so worn and damaged that at present the entire molding is held in place with wire ties.

As Carl says, there aren't that many made. If you don't find the one you want here, back up to "U joints" and try again. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/u-joints/high-torque-single-u-joints-8/

After comparing the two, I went with the Borgeson collapsing section. It was a fight to get that section into the middle of the original shaft and properly aligned, because the Borgeson is a "double D" shape and the shaft a variety of round rods of different diameters. It will have to be inserted from the front, with the brake fluid distributor being moved out of the way. Next is devising a collar that will stop the collapsing shaft at the firewall, so my chest doesn't have to be the stop that collapses it.

Here's a $20 set of marine grade heat shrink spade connectors that should do the job. https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-Connectors-Electrical-Connectors-Quick-Disconnect-Electronics/dp/B07RT4RSGJ/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2VU0UQ2ZH0I0U&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S0q9wGvmhOi7e9QA-LmCiOEIDrFVP12m5s5KzjQoTjYHNIVVRrxjqho_TYlCi6hduUklbaix1Ahd-ad2gTJpiQiD7uex4nLs11gbpsDfOxl2qK6B_F9fj0Cr4EY40XJmmdrqlpsRq-XQVIjm_89Ekpm8teZpTsDtxwUaj5hQfrGeTZ3H6z8TfRDb-rpfMIR4lkTsBrnVmWXTiY4U87KZHCvhZE_VeD6aEL9AyNPE4zY-KgJNWzBSkaMWlOTnbEXJhOZcejY8nES97s4TKtwbZAh36fIm7rFe1U7NSxXSn7s.zS10j8mMaxJ9fI50H5nNNgVZ3QsZsTmYVc43rv5sIOk&dib_tag=se&keywords=marine%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&qid=1720357163&sprefix=marine%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-15&th=1

Thank you, MV8. I have some steel coming to play with. Ironically, this all started with my being annoyed by the play in the steering, which turned out to be the link between the steering shaft and the rack and pinion box having rubber bushings that were beyond repair. I have a new link coming from Moss. I certainly would prefer to use the professional collapsing shaft. At the moment I'm thinking that I could align the Borgeson shaft with the two ends of the cut off shaft and weld it in. So, two possible designs, and fun pursuing the best answer. It keeps my brain active.

Certainly, MV8. I am always ready for your words of wisdom. Speak.