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CharlesG

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Everything posted by CharlesG

  1. I got it from Summit Racing. It's 1 in thick high density SFI approved.
  2. It's firm but not too hard. If I'm in a situation where I need that padding, I want something that will protect me. The softer products won't be as effective.
  3. I'm 6'1" and the seat headrest is useless for me, so I used self adhesive padding where my head contacts the roll bar.
  4. After reading your other thread about converting to Jenvey throttle bodies, I suspect part of your problem is the 50mm TBs you're currently running. That's a lot of air flow for a 200hp engine with Stage 1 cams. In comparison, my 235hp Vauxhall capable of 8000+ rpm has 48mm Weber throttle bodies.
  5. Even more amazing is that it was done in California.
  6. The holes in the pedal and the threaded arm can be welded and re drilled for a new pin or bolt. Weld them, grind them smooth, drill holes, then heat them red hot and quench them in water. It'll harden them enough to slow down the wear.
  7. My 1994 has the VIN on the aluminum plate and stamped into the chassis on the pedal box frame.
  8. I have some experience welding aluminum. If the sump was welded from one side, that could be a problem. With the sump removed from the engine, it would be possible to do a proper repair.
  9. Definitely, I own that car.
  10. The SDK is the manufacturer code for Caterham. The other K indicates a kit built car.
  11. Thank you for the clarification, I wasn’t 100% sure on those.
  12. The D stands for de Dion axle, and yes, 5 is the SV chassis. 7 would be 2007. Once the years cycle from A to Y, they go to 1 thru 9 before going back to A.
  13. SDK= Manufacturer code for Caterham L= Left hand drive L= Live axle K= Kit built A= Chassis type NS= Engine not supplied Y= Model year (2000)
  14. Another option would be to change the steering wheel. I put this one in my seven and have plenty of clearance.
  15. For better visibility, something like this may work for you; https://www.buggywhip.com/collections/fiberglass-whips/products/fiberglass-whips-with-lamp-holder
  16. If they are brought into compliance with CA emission standards, the the car could be registered. I was referred to a facility in Santa Ana to have my car modified to CA standards, but it would have been too expensive, and I felt it would have ruined the value of the car.
  17. You are correct about the 25 year rule for Federal import requirements, however CA does not recognize that rule. If the car is imported as a complete car, it is considered a grey market vehicle. Titling the car in another state will not work. I just went through this with my car. It had been titled and registered in two other states and was denied registration.
  18. If the car is imported to the US as a complete car, CA will consider it a gray market car and it would have to be brought into compliance with CA rules to be registered. CA does not recognize the 25 year rule for imported cars. Ask me how I know this. For a 1966 car, that may not be too difficult, but you may want to do some investigating before you attempt importing the car.
  19. If the posts were made in the current year, then the year is not shown. Older posts will show the year.
  20. Walnut shells are a safe alternative to glass beads and leave aluminum with a satin finish.
  21. My ‘94 has a flat tunnel cover with the T9 transmission.
  22. I learned something about concentric slave cylinders from a Corvette guy the other day. He told me that they had problems with clutch dust getting into the slave cylinder and finding its way back into the master cylinder causing parts to fail. I noticed this happening with my clutch hydraulics. I think bleeding the system more frequently would help prevent this.
  23. I built a gantry hoist to pull the engine out of my car. After it was out, I put it on an elevating cart so I could work on it.
  24. Since it was most likely done in England, it’s 1/4 BSP.
  25. Unless you have one of these.
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