pethier

Haven't had this Seven long enough to figure. I expect that it will spend more miles in the trailer than on the roads. Primarily an autocross car.

Be sure it is grounded securely. On many distributers, the advance plate is grounded to the distributer body by a short piece of braid. On my TR4 this braid was connected to the plate with a rivet. Seemed to work well enough with the points, but with the PerTronix the tiny looseness of the rivet raised hob and the car kept cutting out. I can't remember now the alternative method I devised to ground the PerTronix, but it was simple. The ignition worked flawlessly thereafter.

No surprise. Miata clutch master cylinders tended to need replacement. Fortunately, I found mine cheap and easy to replace. I found that I didn't need to bleed it. Simply filled the reservoir and pumped the clutch pedal for several minutes and it bled itself.

That's part of the question, isn't it? Russia? The UK itself? Whomever it was, they knew what the inside of the office in London looked like.

Was this ancient problem ever resolved?

Thanks.

Who is #1?

Looking for background on this. What year was this car? When was the Prisoner 7 offered? My car is a 1991 1700 Super Sprint 5 speed DeDion. Right-hand-drive, brought into the USA in late 2022. It has 5 Prisoner wheels, 15x6.5.

Greyhound bus used to be good for this, but I don't know that they still do shipping.

Just a note: Regardless of what a spellchecker may say, it is ALFA. This is an Italian acronym for The Anonymous Automobile Constructors of Lombardy, as I recall.

Thanks!

Thanks!

>you may need a stant 10237 or a 10337 if you want a lever pressure release. Thanks!

It is absolutely the wrong cap. It lacks the upper seal, so the coolant does not flow back in when cooling. Turkey-basting from the overflow to the filler every time the car is started from cold is not normal. The projection of the lower seal is too short. It is marked as a 10-pound cap, but that is only on the car it is meant to fit, not this one. I don't feel the push-back that this design of cap is supposed to have when the cap is installed. The distances are both 20mm. The projection on the cap should be more than that at the housing. Does anyone know the part numbers for the correct radiator cap for a 1700 Super Sprint?

Mine is not sucking back the coolant because is the wrong cap. The problem that causes no automatic refilling of the system is that it has no upper seal. In addition, I think the lower seal is too short. I don't feel the spring-back when I install the cap. The vertical distance on both housing and cap is 20mm. It should be more on the cap than the housing. Therefore, installing an upper seal on this cap would solve the lack of suck-back, but not solve the fact that the cap will not pressurize the system. Anybody know how to identify and purchase the correct cap for a 1700 Super Sprint?

I am trying to find the correct radiator cap for my 1700 Super Sprint. The radiator cap goes on the top of the thermostat housing. It is the highest part of the system. The overflow expansion reservoir is plastic and open to the atmosphere. It is lower than the radiator cap. In theory, coolant should suck back into the system when the car is parked and cools. This is not happening because the cap lacks the larger second seal. The second way that this is the wrong cap is that the pressure seal is too short to seal. When you put a cap on, you should feel the spring pushing back. I don't. Does anyone know what cap to ask for? If anyone has a functioning 1700 Super Sprint with an unpressurized coolant tank, please tell me numbers and brand names on the radiator cap.

My Europa had a single 45DCOE. It had an enrichment circuit but it was never connected. Really can't remember what the twin Dellorto side-drafts on on my 1979 Caterham crossflow had.

With the rim seal: The car warms up. Coolant expands and goes to the expansion tank. Park the car and as the coolant contracts atmospheric pressure pushes the coolant in the expansion tank up the little hose into the space above the inner cap seal, from where it drains into the radiator. In the morning, there is coolant right up to the level of of the little hose. Without the rim seal: The car warms up. Coolant expands and goes to the expansion tank. Park the car and as the coolant contracts atmospheric pressure does nothing, since the pressure in the expansion tank and in the space above the inner cap seal are the same. In the morning, there is no coolant visible all the way down to the thermostat and probably below. Basically, the coolant level in the expansion tank keeps rising. Coolant level in engine keeps falling. The way this car is designed, with the expansion tank lower than the pressure cap, the outer seal is required to keep the radiator from taking in air. Many caps do not have an outer seal because they are designed for cars where the expansion area is inside the pressure zone, perhaps at the top of the radiator, or in a separate expansion tank located in the pressure area. This Seven has the expansion tank located outside the pressure area and lower than the radiator cap, Either the outer seal has fallen out of the cap, or it is the wrong cap for the car.

Took off the nose. Pushed the car out of the shop into the garage. Opened the garage door. Placed a couple of fire bottles nearby. Topped up the coolant by taking it out of the overflow bottle with a turkey-baster. I think the coolant cap is missing the outer seal that allows the engine to pull the coolant back from the overflow bottle into the radiator. Started the car and warmed it all the way up. No hot wires. No apparent leaks. No smoke. Just could not make it fail. Drove it around the neighborhood with nose and engine cover off for a while. Winter is setting in, so I may not get it on the road again. On my winter list is sourcing a proper cap and the radiator hose from the thermostat to the radiator. It is not leaking, but there is some checking on the thermostat end. No point in waiting for it to fail.

Your side-draft Webers don't have an enrichment circuit? Adds fuel instead of choking air to do the same job. Still uses a "choke" knob under the dash, directly in the middle of this RHD car.

My spacer goes the other way, moving the wheel closer to the dash. The spacer is about 1-1/2 inches. This makes up most of the 2 inches that the quick-release moved the wheel aft. The other half-inch I made up by adjusting the shaft forward. I wind up with the wheel just where it started, but now it is removable. I have finished testing the prototype, 3D printed hollow. My SIL is working on the final one, solid ABS. I may shoot pix tomorrow. The prototype is a silly green color. I know how to use machine tools; I just don't have any except for a drill=press. Good thing my SIL loves to play with 3D printing.

Mine has air horns on the left (RHD car) hear the firewall. Switch is on right (door side) of the dash. Horn not working at inspection. Felt loose wire an plugged it into bottom spade. No joy. After I got the car home, was feeling around on the switch and found that there are three spades. Top has a wire. Nothing to lose, plugged wire into middle wire. Really-loud air horns. Dunno what the bottom spade is for, if anything.

One does wonder how the sender got whacked that hard. This car is new to me. Has what appears to be full records from England.

That was the last warm day for we don't know how long. I had to get some outside house stuff painted. Car is in my heated shop. Doing leaf removal now. I'll get back to the car... I suspect a wire that goes to what I think is the oil-pressure sensor, but I need time to investigate further.