pethier

My CSR 260 had the pump on the right in your photo. It failed. The replacement called out in this thread had the two male "spades" like the one on the left in your photo. My solution was to take a pair of diagonal cutters to the plastic on the harness. I nibbled away all of the plastic housing until the two female spades were free. I plugged them to the male spades, wide to wide and narrow to narrow. i did not have to cut and repair wires, just make the plastic housing on the harness side go away. I did not have to make any changes to the pump side.

Thanks.

It's not the entire car. Just something that will become a part of the CSR.

Is the storm cap or rain cap? My storm cap for the SLR cage fits around the boot cover

The ring and pinion I have in 74PHIL is 4.11/1 and works just fine for autocrossing with the T9 5-speed with its drop 1st. There is some sort of plated LSD in there which seems OK. The ring and pinion I have in the CSR 260 is 3.62/1. The transmission is the Caterham all-close-ratio 6-speed. Together, they give what roadracers call a "Useable First". This is what autocrossers call an "UNuseable First". I'm having a Sierra diff made up with a ring and pinion of 4.71/1 and a Drexler LSD. The overall launch ratio will still be lazier than 74PHIL. I'll keep my 3.62/1 Quaife ATB differential lying around in case my heirs want to sell the car to a big-track fan.

Thanks!

Yeah, I missed it. But no way was it the ratio I wanted.

Excellent. I assume the wheels have steel inserts with conical seats. Much-better design than original Brand Lotus wheels.

LOL

I think I recently referred to this as a "stub axle" because I just could not remember the word "spindle". Thanks for reminding me.

Brand Lotus wheels? Folks often have balance issues with these wheels. I have found it is often a problem with the lug nuts. The outside diameter of the nut is often not concentric with the internal thread.

Same thing.

Looks like yours has a RaceLine water rail like mine does.

It looks like the stem/ball part may be the same. I have not measured the ball. The stem end is interchangeable: 5mm thread. The other pieces are not the same. The bolt pattern of the foot is the same, both fit the two small holes on the cage. The big nut on the outside or the setscrew from the back are different and require a different foot design. There is no indication of how the Lifeline mirrors actually mount. My Flickr album shows the hardware to mount the SPA or other mirrors having a 5mm female thread on the arm mount to a flat surface with 2 mounting holes that are about 38mm apart, center to center. The WESTMO does not need the big hole between the two small ones. If you are going to bolt this type of foot on an aeroscreen instead of something flat, see https://uberniche.co.uk/spa-mirror-shims

My old friend Slide Hammer. Yes, the theory is to use a machine screw. The screw presses against the end of the stub axle and presses the cap off. The practice is that the hole in the cap is messed up and the cap has mated itself in place. If the original threads are not up to the task, put a sheet-metal screw into your slide hammer and use it to suggest the cap move out. Keep hitting it harder until it decides to move. Some caps have a male stud instead of a hole. They are not even pretending that the press will work, and expect a slide hammer.

Nice to know. Lifeline give a choice of two shapes, but only show the picture of one shape. In my case, I already had two mirrors, it was just that the mount for one mirror was cracked and unusable. I bought two compatible mounts of a different design which seems to be more convenient and and more durable.

When I got my CSR 260, the left mirror was unusable because the mounting at the roll cage was loose. The adjustment was to be tightened by using an Allen key from the back side of the mount through a hole in the mounting plate. This was going to be futile because the mount was cracked from overtightening. This design seemed flawed to me. While investigating WESTMO in Germany, I found they had a better way: A solid mount with no hole on the back side. The ball was to be captured by a large nut that could be tightened from the outside. These shots are in an album at Flickr, some with extra captions I am not going to try to organize here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/albums/72177720335280753/

I think the Birkin I have was made as a 2003 model. It does not have this tag in this location.

Scott, Would you please educate me on where this pump mounts? I have an unused fuel tank for my 1991 deDion Caterham. Unfortunately, I do not have the carrier. The in-tank mounting port is not on the top of the tank, but on the car-right side (end?) of the tank. I'd like to obtain a carrier. The engine in the car is a Ford Zetec with Hayabusa injection.

Combining two cults!

Vovchandr was right.

I once saw a quote from an A-Modified autocrosser: "Our car doesn't need 200 horsepower for acceleration. We don't slow down very much. Our car needs 200 horsepower to push the wings."

I dodge the argument. One Lotus. Two Lotus cars.

Yeah. I had fuel-pump problems at an Evolution autocross school. Lucky I have my own enclosed trailer with an ATV winch. Fuel problems seem solved on that CSR. Still have not found a pump setup for the new tank on 74PHIL.