pethier

https://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/products/yokohama-advan-a052-tyre?variant=53701139235159 Both 205-13 and 195-13. I don't see these on Tire Rack. I have seen 14" A052 tires on Tire Rack. I have found that A052 (that is ay-ZERO-five-two) tires are great for street and autocross on light cars. NOTICE: maybe the 13" tires from KitCarDirect are not DOT in the USA. I don't know.

It might be worth noting that for searches and the like that these excellent-for-light-cars tires are not AO52 (ay-oh) but A052 (ay-zero).

I don't know if they are still around, but when I had my 1979 Caterham, I bought a new set of 15" x 7" Panasport wheels. They were really nice. I was contacted by a fellow who had acquired my old car, and he told me he had the green Caterham wheels that had come to me with the car, but the Panasports were not still with it.

The caps on those 16" wagon wheels do not look identical to Prisoner caps. Whether they are interchangeable, I can't say, but I do know the fastener bolt does not align with the logo in the same way.

Well, they are not all schematically the same. The hose from the fuel pump goes through a fist-sized filter, then goes to a tee. One branch from the tee goes to the device mentioned in this thread as a fuel-pressure regulator, then back to the assembly where it drops excess fuel back into the tank. The other branch heads off the the front of the car where I assume it dead-ends at the injectors. While this seems to prevent over-pressure at the injectors, this is not what I expected compared to what has been explained to me on my other cars.

Got the assembly back in the tank. Put back in about half a tank of BP 93 octane. I did not get in the car. I made sure the gearchange was in neutral. The fuel pump made noise and quieted down when it came to pressure. Turned the key to START. Immediate jump from silence to a rumbling, loping fast idle. Oil pressure looks OK. Let it run for a while until the water temp and oil temp came up. The gas gauge seems to work. Like most British cars I have had, it is so heavily-damped that you'd think for a while it is not working. The rear wheels are up on Rhino Ramps. I still have to go under to redress the bundled wires that go the assembly. It's 90 degrees and sunny outside. The dewpoint is in the 70s. This garage section is not insulated, so even with the walk-in door and 16 x 7 garage door open, and a fan blowing on me, I shut everything off and lock up.

I wouldn't bother my son-in-law for that. I can BUY elbows.

Narrow seats in a wider cockpit give more room to wrestle with the lap-belt adjusters.

Just about ready to put the assembly back in the tank. Not tonight.

Apparently, these mirrors take out the 360 degree camera function. As in: none of the system works if you remove the stock mirrors. That's a deal-breaker for me. The camera system is one of the three things I had to have. The others are six-passenger and 3.5 twin turbo. I need that front camera to reliably get the truck in the garage. When the top of the license-holder obscures the tape on the shop door, stop. this gives a few inches from the shop door and a few inches from the garage door. I have to have the trailer hitch out The slide-on* has a port on the bottom so all that fancy stuff works with the stock parts. I just wish that the wide mirror it has was flat. * K SOURCE Snap & Zap 81860 Custom Fit Towing Mirror for 2021 up F150.

Part of my brain said I should look again before posting. A few YEARS back? Wow.

One advantage of the skinnier trailers is that you don't need camper mirrors. One problem I have had with my 2021 F-150 is that I can't find proper camper mirrors. You could get them if you ordered a new truck that way. Every time I have seen them on a 2021+ F-150 and was able to buttonhole the driver (s)he said they came on the truck, whether new on the lot or they ordered it that way. The aftermarket is happy to supply you with camper mirrors for an F-150 through 2020. All I have found for 2021+ is these slide-on convex mirrors. They have some deficiencies: They are not quite as wide as true camper mirrors. Seeing anything in your own lane on a straight road is not happening. They can not be telescoped for deadheading. Popping them on and off looks like it won't work forever, especially in colder temps. The added wide mirror should be a flat mirror, not convex. If they sold these with a flat mirror on the outside and provided a wedge mirror with each one to be stuck on the stock mirror, it would be better. I was able do the wedge mirrors myself, but more-distant traffic coming up from the rear are very tiny in the convex wide mirror. At least they don't prevent manually folding them back when parallel-parked.

I sent him a heads-up. Watch for contact from him.

Now that I have this assembly out on the bench, I can investigate the wire bundle from connector to bulkhead. These little wires seem to be running loose, covered by a loose plastic sleeve. I will have to slit this sleeve so I can inspect all the wires. The problem is probably not a short upstream of the connector, since I see damage to the cream/white wire close to the downstream side of the connector. Tomorrow. Now I'm going to watch Messi and team play some football.

Wire descriptions leading to fuel pump and fuel-level components chassis side of connector > tank side of connector > bulkhead outside tank > bulkhead inside tank > destination yellow with green stripe > cream or white bad insulation > cream or white > red > pump fat black > thin black with crimp splice > black > black > pump green > lavender > lavender > tan > float thin black > thin black > black > black > splits; one to float and one to low-fuel sensor none > red not connected. taped up end > red > white > low-fuel sensor

On the CSR260. At the bulkhead on the top of the tank, the white wire transitions to a red wire. As that 5-wire bundle approaches the connector, the red wire ends and is covered up. The connector only has four positions used. There is no wire on the upstream bundle to supply this part. I believe it is a low-fuel sensor. I don't even know if the CSR260 has a use for this. Previous users have apparently gotten along without it. I suppose I can just leave it there. If I ever find a reason to connect it, I won't have to pull this assembly again.

There is a USA7s member who may still have 5 Prisoner wheels not that far from you...

Spitfire wheels? I doubt that this car has wheel studs on a 3.75" circle.

Now I need to know how to get this thing open without breaking anything.

With my experience with another Caterham gas tank, I was sure to put in some longer bolts to catch any possible keeper ring inside the tank. Turned out this tank has none: the threads are provided with rivnuts. I still suggest that procedure; you never know... OK, the assembly is out. If I thought the wires on the outside were tiny, the ones leading to the float assembly are microscopic.

Shingle Springs? Sure, now. That's on my way home from San Jose. Missed opportunity...

I was a bit luckier with my Storm Cap. Soft Bits for Sevens was very-responsive. They confirmed that the Storm Cap for the SLR cage on an SV would would fit my CSR 260 with an SLR cage. They had them in stock. It arrived in a very-short time. It fits perfectly. Apparently, if they don't have stock on an item, they make it to order. They may be dragging their feet on an answering you while waiting for an answer from the production shop.

Aerodynamically unsound.

Someone in my Birkin's past with more muscle than sensitivity smushed both halves of a popper (snap) on the boot cover. I have a supply of Caterham poppers (and pop rivets therefor) for the CSR, so I followed the advice of Louis Sullivan.

Car is on BAT now. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2012-caterham-seven/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Model_Update