pethier

> Have a read of the attached PDF - it will help you understand the component and its location. Done that > Black anodized - likely original Caterham part Nope. > Blue anodized - Beachman Racing replacement part Nope. > Stainless steel - Team Leos replacement part Very possibly.

I should look at this. How can I tell if the upgraded parts have been installed?

Sam ting.

Yes, RHD. Spent most of its life in Northwich, Cheshire.

I answered your question before I saw you had asked it.

I have such a car, but the carpet and armrest are black. I have this carpet out of the car these days, so I can show you the fittings. 1991 1700 Super Sprint, ordered in England as a Complete Kit. The holes on the ends of the aluminum are for screws that attach to the top of the prop-shaft tunnel.

Check out "Thousand Dollar Car" by Bottle Rockets.

Solid rain for days on end here in The Twin Cities.

My son-in-law, who printed a spacer for me in ABS says it is OK for UV.

Actually, the overall launch ratio with my new diff in the CSR will be higher than that in my other car. I took the time to count the bolts going by to confirm the ratio on my Zetec car, and it counts out to 4.11 on the button. I have to rely on published figures for the first-gear ratio on the T9 in my Zetec car and on the 6-speed in the CSR 260. The entire range of the 6-speed is much smaller on the 6-speed. Not only on the low end as seen there. Top gear on the 6-speed is straight-through, while top gear of the T9 is an 0.82 overdrive. First gear overall launch ratios: 74PHIL 5 sp diff overall 3.36 4.11 13.80 CSR 260 6 sp diff overall 2.69 4.71 12.68 The current overall on the CSR 260 is 9.72, and that's not not all that great for launch required on most autocross courses.

Yes. Changing from 3.62 to 4.71. I'm an autocrosser, not a big-track driver. I figure top end will be about 117 MPH. Please point me to decent videos. From the VIN, I believe the car is a 2007 model. It certainly has the two extra struts that come diagonally down through the boot area.

In the interest of not clogging this thread, I have started one dedicated to the process of changing diffs in my CSR 260:

I don't know, but I like the green color.

My new differential arrived today! Since the CSR chassis is different, I expect finding a video tutorial is not likely, so I need all the help I can get. The Quaife with the 3.62/1 gears is coming out to be set aside so my heirs can include it when they sell off my stuff. Going in this winter so I am ready for the autocross season in the spring: All-new Ford Sierra case, 4.71/1 gears and Drexler LSD. Although I have done many mechanical jobs in my life (at least one of which people thought was impossible), I will not be offended if you describe the procedure as if I have never spun a wrench. I would much rather be told stuff I already know than to be NOT told stuff I that I don't know that I don't know.

My Caterham S3 has a 1995 Ford Contour Zetec. Although it is running on a MegaSquirt ECU, it does indeed use the sensor at the back of the block. I don't know a lot about these things, I do know that the location of the sensor (and perhaps the sensor itself) differs a little between the manual- and automatic-transmission cars. I can't imagine why a location other than at the ring gear would be an improvement, but maybe someone can explain that to me.

Just heard from the consignment outfit. The Birkin has a new owner, whom I do not know. I'm officially back to two Sevens: 1991 Caterham S3, now powered by 1995 Ford Contour Zetec with Hayabusa injection 2007 Caterham CSR 260 powered by Cosworth Ford Duratec

I would recommend XU. I like the Yokohama A052 tires for autocrossing and street with light cars.

Hi, Steve! Thanks again for ride to Helper in your Lotus at the LUG in Utah. I think the trick diff for my CSR 260 is just about to arrive here. I should be making my LUG photos public shortly. [We return you now to your regularly-scheduled NJMP programing]

Harris Hill near San Marcos? Seriously, I don't know how to find a track day near Houston.

I am totally ignorant about ECUs, but a tuner I trust likes to recommend Haltech. I may still have him replace the Megasquirt in 74PHIL with a Haltech. I will say that when he checked out the documentation on the OMEX 600 Series ECU in the Birkin I am selling, he told me that car did not need a Haltech.

If you don't have a METRIC dial caliper, 1 inch = 25.4 millimeters.

Please rotate the cellphone to the horizontal position...

Product is not currently in stock

Reminds me that when I had my Europa the preload was 90 ft-pounds. Caused massive understeer in autocross events where the traction was not first-rate. I put in a full bottle of Slick-50 ManTran and it dropped to 20. much-more drivable. I am having the Drexler set to zero on the overrun on my CSR 260.