pethier

Thanks. I should add that I don't think the manual; I received was one specifically meant for my model of Caterham. My original post was poorly-worded.

Thanks.

I need a right rear fender and the associated lights therefor. 1991 Caterham 1700 Super Sprint

Also just received a package of zipper bags. 40"x52". https://www.walmart.com/ip/Big-Zip-Lock-similar-ZIPLOC-Zipper-Resealable-Storage-Clear-Bags-3MIL-Jumbo-XL-SUPER-JUMBO-5-PACK/787221166?athbdg=L1100&from=/search These are actually larger than the ZipLoc bags I bought off the shelf at Walmart back in 2008 for my first Caterham. I can't seem to find those anymore.

The bolt circle is 4.25" or 108mm. I'll have a look at the hub.

Yes, but I think Triumph Spitfires had 3/8" studs. I know my Lotus Europa did.

My 1991 Caterham 1700 Super Sprint has the same thread as my daughter's Honda Fit. They are certainly 12mm. Too lazy to look up my records now, but I think that is M12 x 1.5 I have Prisoner wheels. What torque should I be using? Honda says I think 80 foot pounds. I just tested the spare-tire mount gizmo to 70 and it didn't strip. The Caterham owner's manual for my car gives 45 and 55 for two different models, but does not confirm the stud diameter, and the model names don't mean much.

Maybe I will make a video. The only one I have found of my car is one made in England.

I'd rather drive the Seven with top and no doors than with doors and no top. I like the shade. I also like the fact that my top has a zipper-opening back window, The only reason I still had the mirrors on the doors is because they held up the doors on the "towel bar" I fabricated on the wall of my shop. I had no way to store them so they would not get damaged. Today i removed the mirrors and filled the holes with pop rivets. I slid each door into a wildly-oversized pillowcase. Product Dimensions : 40"L x 31"W. Each door actually will turn sideways in the pillowcase, leaving a large area to fold over. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WTL99LZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Now I need to figure out how to hang up each door-bearing pillowcase in the shop and on the wall in my trailer.

I'll restart: Took the Super Sprint for its first USA autocross last Saturday. Eau Claire Wisconsin, on the parking lot of a drag-strip. Great fun! Finished 17th out of 48 drivers. Slightly hampered by inexperience shifting left-handed. Any doubt about the car having a plate-type limited-slip was dispelled by the sidestep at the launch. At one point, the car did something that has never before happened to me in a rear-drive car: It tore the steering wheel out of my hands. Some combination of trying to shift left-handed and the LSD, I think. Ruined a perfectly-good run. I will be on the lookout for this in the future. The DeDion seemed to behave itself better than the live-axle I used to have.

What LED setup did you you use?

What's the matter with a RHD Seven? I'm liking mine a lot!

Got the autocross tires on the Prisoner wheels on Friday. Car started right up after its winter nap. Put the car in the trailer and headed for Eau Claire. Saturday morning early, arrived at Rock Falls Dragstrip. Autocross in the parking lot. Finished 17th of 48. This is certainly the first USA-style autocross this car has done. Sunday I returned home and took my neighbor for a good long ride. Then we hopped in the Cayman for a totally-different sports-car experience. Cooling system worked fine throughout. I'm still having a problem remembering to switch off the turn signals, even though they show atop the fenders. I may need a loud beeper. Getting used to left-handed shifting. Under autocross conditions, I'm not ready for prime time.

Be sure to mount your Facet pump as low as possible. I had problems with my Stag losing prime, especially at altitude. The volunteers at ISOA did a fine job overall on the restoration, but they replaced the stock electric fuel pump with a Facet IN THE STOCK LOCATION. After I re-plumbed the fuel lines to position the pump as low as possible, there were no more problems.

I understand your difficulty in posting images to this site. I have not yet cracked the code to getting it right every time.

I have that stuff in my shop. I will try to remember to get it for you.

A standard open vented recovery tank system on a Kent based engine is indeed what I have. And now, it has a double-seal pressure cap, unlike what was on it when I bought it, so it actually operates correctly. No need to worry about a bottom hose fitting on my car. A properly-placed cable tie around the radiator hose and the overflow hose makes it pretty-much impossible for the hose to pull out. The Triumph Stag had a closed expansion tank well-below the top of the radiator. If you removed the solid cap on the radiator and the pressure cap on the expansion tank at the same time, bad things happened. You would then need to raise the front of the car to go about filing the system without air in it. A company in the UK has a retrofit kit with a metal tank mounted high. I got a little road time in the non-winter weather we had last week, but now we have cold, snow and salt.

Back in the day, a fitting blew out of a carb on my SAAB 96 on the grid at BIR. Caused a fuel fire.

#42 gives you a nice crossover to the Hitchhiker's Guide...

That is correct. I call it an overflow bottle. Since the radiator cap is double-sealed, when the car sits and cools down, atmospheric pressure sends coolant up the overflow tube from the overflow bottle to fill the space in the engine system as the coolant contracts.

The linear layout on my car is Engine/radiator/heater Pressure cap Overflow tube or hose (transparent so I can tell what is going on). This tube is placed so it will stay at the bottom of the overflow bottle. Overflow bottle with a "cold-level" tape marking about a third of the way up from the bottom. The cap of this bottle is vented to atmosphere. The engine/radiator/heater needs to be leak-free to maintain the column of coolant in the tube. Every time I remove the pressure cap, the tube will empty again.

That's pretty-much correct. Sorry about using "overflow tube" and "overflow hose" interchangeably.

Thanks!

I procured a coolant cap with the correct seals. Still didn't seem to work correctly. The overflow hose was opaque, so I could not see what was going on. I suspected that this hose might have an air-leak. I junked this hose and put in transparent tubing. Filled the engine to the top of the thermostat housing. Installed the pressure cap. Removed the overflow bottle and washed it thoroughly. Reinstalled and filled it with fresh coolant to the top of the blue vinyl tape. (I have no idea who installed this tape. I assume that it is meant to show a proper "cold" level.) Started the car and ran it until warm. This car has a heater, so I made sure the heater valve was open. Coolant began to trickle into the overflow hose, never filling the hose, but trickling into the overflow bottle. Radiator and heater hose were all hot. Switched off and went away for a half hour. Came back to find that the coolant had come up into the tube several inches. Went away overnight. Came back in the morning and of course the car was all shop-temperature of about 60 degrees F. Overflow tube was full of coolant save for a small air bubble at the top of tube where it connects at the pressure cap. Seems to have taken care of it.