pethier

Fuel pump and gauge sender bulkhead. I can't believe how tiny these wires are.

What is this device just forward of gas tank?

With some difficulty, the honeycomb did come out of the car. For one thing, the SLR cage does not have the flanges that the FIA rollbar has. To made reinstallation easier, I put the table saw and sled to work. A slight trim to the front corners of the honeycomb should do it. The sharper corner got a bit of rounding from the oscillating drum sander.

Bolts that held the clamps that held the fire system.

The honeycomb in the CSR was held in directly only by two screws. Three more screws went through the metal piece which held down the leading edge. These screws did not go through the honeycomb. The trailing edge of the honeycomb had no screws in it all all.

Not only that. The filler port on the tank is surrounded by the honeycomb, so every time you take out the honeycomb you need to disassemble the filler assembly. Here is my 1991 honeycomb hanging on the wall because I can't reinstall it due to the workaround for the pickup problem in the tank.

while the Cayman gets some attention elsewhere.

CSR 50th anniversary edition. 1957-2007

OOPS. Dunno why I thought it was 2026.

Yeah, it was a pain. Good news, your prediction of little difficulty taking the honeycomb out of the CSR was right on the button. Structural? Hell, it was barely attached! Pix to follow: I have a football match to watch. USA! USA!

On my 1991 S3 with an FIA roll bar the honeycomb boot floor was impossible to get out. The roll bar flanges blocked it. it was a real job getting the roll bar off of the car. I cleaned the cup in the frame and flooded it with anti-seize in case I ever need to remove the roll bar again With one inch trimmed off each end of the honeycomb, it just clears, so the roll bar can stay on.

I think it is mostly to hold up whatever cargo you put in the boot. I don't think that the cuts that either I or John did compromise the structure of the car. My 1979 Caterham had only very-thin plywood. I added my own alum sheet to that car just to satisfy some autocross rule about metal between tank and driver.I made my own alum housing over the fill hose, since that car had none.

The honeycomb was simple to cut with a table saw using a sled. Just feed it slowly and use a carbide blade. Have fun with the shop vac getting all those tiny alum chips.

On my 1991 1700, I cut one inch off each end of the honeycomb. The light alum sheet that sits atop the honeycomb easily cantilevers and supports carpet and contents. i will look at your stuff and see what you did.

Unscrewed the CO2 cylinder: It's 1/2"-20. Went to Menards and bought a bolt. Wrapped it up with gas tape and screwed it into the port. Next I will cap the outputs and then remove the big red bottle from the car. Not going to try to save the alum tubing. Hope the SLR roll cage does not give me any trouble getting the honeycomb out like the roll bar on the 1700 did.

This part has been superseded Use WFX100631P Not exactly a monumental part-number change. I think it means they can't get the originals anymore and this is a repro.

seen today on Rimmer website: --------- This part has been superseded Use WFX100631P --------- I just placed my order. Many thanks to Croc for leaving the trail!

THANKS! I tried all kinds of searches, and didn't find that. I'm standing on the shoulders of giants. Part number has been superseded. I have ordered the pump. I will add to the thread,

Thanks! I'm reading the "recharge instructions" to confirm my disarming protocol.

I certainly noticed that it had no gauge, which really surprised me, but I suppose if it uses a one-shot cartridge, it mightnot piece the cover on the cartridge until activated, so there would be nothing to measure until you pulled the cable.

At an autocross? Not likely. They don't check dates on seat belts, either. However, It is a good excuse to take it out and get use of the storage space again. I have never been to any kind of event that required a fire system. I didn't count it as value added.

I used to autocross an Elise with a first-rate suspension system. I had Hoosier A7 tires. There were days when all the tin-top car guys were spraying their tires to cool them. I couldn't get my Hoosiers to heat. Then I heard about the 052. These guys worked on the first run. When I got back into Sevens, cars even lighter than the Elise, I figured it was an easy choice to do the 052 tires. Not sorry. They certainly will cycle out before they wear out. The XU class is the ticket for streetable Sevens. About the only meaningful limit on the class is the 200 treadwear rule. Great, the tire I want to use anyway is 200 treadwear. I'm not legal for XU with the Toyos on my CSR, so I expect to run Exhibition for whatever events I get that car to this season. Next season it is going to be XU on the Yoko 052. Meanwhile, I have a fresh set of Yoko 052 205-50-15 on the Birkin I took to Evolution Phase 1 last Saturday and are working great on the 7" wheels.

I didn't want to be the first to mention that.

I have not yet been able to locate the fuel pump. Is it in the tank? If so, where does the power wire enter the tank? If I must remove the trunk floor, there is a fire-suppression system mounted on the center of the trunk floor. I don't know anything about these systems.