Xhilr8n

We had CTEKs for the Bentley and McLarens, I still have some. But use Battery Tender for most vehicles. They work. My question is where to place the interface and how to attach it. I’ve been thinking somewhere forward of pedal box that I can access by feel alone from under the car. Low to ground so cable’s not on things and bonnet still on. wdb could you share a photo of how you did it?

Used to have a Bentley Continental GT Speed, about as far from this forum as it gets. But someting in common, few drive either car two days in a row. They might sit for a month. Regularly. Sad but true. This means a battery tender is a neccessity. Not as finicky as something like a McLaren that will develop behaviors if not kept on a charge when not running. A Bentley has remarkably smart features all over them but one I liked was the magnetic attachment for the battery tender, No need to open the trunk or anything, just put the inch and a quarter wide round magnetic lead to a spot on back of car. Bonus feature is that if you forget and drive off, no problem. Pops off easily. Would be great to not have to remove the bonnet to get the tender going. Has anyone here done this? I’ve seen where Evora folk have done it. Something like this https://optimate1.com/acco-97/

Pretty sure they are used to move the seats forward and backward. I can see the argument it’s unneeded but I wanted the versatility. I’m 6’1” so want that seat back when I’m passenger but if seat goes forward can put a lot behind it even two doors. Not placed the passenger runners yet.

Update: 250 miles in I can arrive home with no discernible clutch aroma. Progress. It’d definitely getting more comfortable to zip about.

So I came up with a nice little lanyard set up. But when I tried to loosen one of the main bolts holding the windscreen, it felt as though it “stripped” or spun. Is there some trick to engaging this bolt?

Tried in runners sourced from RMC today when sests out for harness placement. Will need to weld some nuts to the one I have for passenger side like has been done on the set that came with the car on driver side…..⏳ Otherwise would be possible but much potential for aggravations.

I plan to take the 7 to my next haircut, arriving with a whole lot of ‘style’

Well it’s done. Went full speed on the Scroth set up. It arrived this morning and I felt more like messing with it than anything else today. It was pretty much plug and play. My Tillet Academy seats have the threads to receive the bolts from underneath fixed so no chasing the nuts around. The set of runners I sourced from RMC are same but without the nuts welded. Now I know and can address that. Still catching the threads from underneath takes long arms on the exhaust side as well as a good feel for threads. Not too bad though.

Ready, fire! Aim.

It’s a tough line to walk for us to report how this new economy effects our hobby without getting into the political sandbox mrmustang mentioned. Or just plain getting frustrated even angry that it makes it more difficlt to pursue what we are trying to do with out little cars. We might need each other’s support so let’s all try to stay as clear as we can from, well you know, escalating disrespect.

Yeah I guess most of us will be helping Make America Great Again, I’ve an order with Soft Bits this should effect. If it really was about Economics and not about Ego it would sure feel different.

Following CBuff’s guidance I’ve successfully mounted the 12 volt adapter under the instrument panel in a “solid enough” way using the 3m Duolock fastening tape. https://www.amazon.com/3M-SJ3560-CLR1333-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B00AQ6IS1G?pd_rd_w=vXfmH&content-id=amzn1.sym.4cbcb1e0-172b-4571-a896-863b1ee67ab3&pf_rd_p=4cbcb1e0-172b-4571-a896-863b1ee67ab3&pf_rd_r=ECVM4QP45ZDMRVTA3S8F&pd_rd_wg=fwBzU&pd_rd_r=a37e8568-822c-4729-8fc2-10dd856609c4&pd_rd_i=B00AQ6IS1G&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_60_i

I’ve found different plastics even on same car will respond differently to various elixirs. Back to Black is a favorite, as is Trim Shine and for some applications Sonax Plastic Restorer gel. But don’t put anything on all of them until you see how something does.

These are pretty much for same purpose https://opticalfactor.com/collections/prescription-motorcyle-goggles-and-sunglasses

Have to agree. Might be blurred but you’re aware of it.

I had some nice glacier glasses years ago, leather side shields and hooked around ear a lot. Seems some bicycle glasses might be good but they are not made to stay on past 30 mph Like the idea of a teather for a hat.

All vehicles produce a following field of small stones and flecks and some more weighty pebbles. They have no idea. We know. We begin cleaning our cars by vacuming the gravel out of the seats. They are called “collector cars” because they collect up stuff as they drive around. Some sort of protective eyewear is in order. Regular eyeglasses better than nothing but when we ride without doors things could happen. Seems a good idea to have something for an innocent passenger on board as well. What have you found that can protect eyes and stay on in the upward wind and one not look too terribly like a knob? Or maybe just the first two 😊

Another aspect, I want the center rear view to be flat not convex. That’s the set up in my track Elise. I like that flat center mirror so it’s easier to judge distance and decide whether to point someone by. We can get by in these Lotus with the tiny mirror as the side ones are so large.

I fished through my collection of older wrenches to find two that could adjust there mirrors.

Yes the Spa mirrors are a good fit for this car, small, light, and useful. And who needs electric motors and switches and wires to adjust your view while rocketing along? This is all that you need to carry with you to adjust these mirrors as with DPRs windscreen mount (I’ll source lighter wrenches). .