Origin7

FYI - I contacted Fristom to see if they have a distributor in the USA. They do not, so we'd need to import. If I can find something nice that is available here in the US, I'll design a housing and make it open source.

This is interesting and reinforces something I found recently. As I started tuning my carbs, I pulled and inspected the idle mixture screws (not the jets shown here). They were noticeably pitted at the ends or perhaps someone overtightened them at some point. New screws and springs are cheap, and probably a good idea to replace if you are fine-tuning your carbs. I am not sure how much replacing them helped me, but it certainly didn't hurt. Now that I see this, it makes me wonder what the inside surface looks like.

https://optronicsinc.com/products/brands/optronicsled/products.aspx?seriesid=787

I've been casually looking into this as well. This is the best value I've seen so far: https://uberniche.co.uk/big-col-flashy-lights The LED manufacturer, Fistom, does not have a distributor in the US, so unfortunately, you'll need to import/pay tariffs.

They are around $710 USD before tariffs and shipping. So, I'd budget for $1K

Go for it! I wouldn't bother with the threads, though. Printing threads doesn't go well typically. For stuff like this, I normally epoxy in a bolt. Another alternative is to design a void in the part, pause the print, insert a magnet into the void, then resume printing. The magnet should hold this part in place quite well.

@hahuang65 unbernich has some nice stuff. Thanks for mentioning him. I'm digging the rear LED cluster. At 170 quid, for everything (housing, light, connector, that's pretty hard to beat. Just wishing the tarriffs go away... https://uberniche.co.uk/big-col-flashy-lights

Speaking of 3D-printed components, here is an interesting idea from DPR: https://parts.dpr-motorsport.com/contents/en-uk/p119

Well done, @hahuang65

123 Ignition.

@Croc something like this?

That sounds exactly like the lean bog I was getting from having my floats sitting too low. I'd recommend measuring the fuel level to see how close you are to 25mm. WDB did a good job outlining the technique using the dial calipers. A couple of additional comments: make sure the car is level and run it right before checking. Per Keith, measure within 60 sec. Be prepared to take the covers ON/OFF a couple of times before you get it right. I should also note that like WDB, my floats were set correctly according to the weber spec, but my bowl level was low. Correcting this completely resolved the issue you describe.

@hahuang65 Nice work! This area is ripe with possibilities. I just did a gauge holder for my AFR gauge. I am not sure about the newer 7s, but on the older ones, you can hook underneath the tunnel cover to hold things securely without fasteners.

@Vovchandr That's a great idea. Another reason for me to get Tillet seats. I'd do this, but without the seat, it would be tough to match the geometry. I'll ask Tillet if they can send me a 3D model of this seat. It's probably a long shot.

This would be a good question for the folks over at Keith Franck's forum: https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft

@wdb I'm glad to hear you had the same success that I had with Keith's process. He's a wealth of knowledge. Are you running a wide-band O2 sensor? Leaning out at high RPMs is sometimes a fuel pressure issue. I don't have this issue, but I still plan on installing a Malpassi regulator and gauge in the near future to ensure I'm getting sufficient fuel to the carbs. Another important thing I've encountered tuning these carbs is how important it is to fully heat soak the engine before tuning. Warming it up to operating temp in the driveway is not enough. You really need to drive it for 15 mins or so to adequately heat soak it. I am seeing a 0.5-1:1 drop in AFR as the engine fully warms up.

One looks newer than the other. Perhaps there was a rebuild at one point, and a cam was used from a different DCOE variant. There are a number of different 40 DCOEs....18, 151, etc. If all other things remain the same, you would get different amounts of fuel. You might be able to observe this by looking down the air horns and observing the spray from the pump jets. They should spray at the same time and for the same duration.

Wow, the Nodiz setup looks nice. I wish I saw that before buying the 123. It looks like I can still grab the rpm data from the 123 ignition, but I'd need a logger or rasberry pi setup to record it.

My pleasure! I've attached the Weber manual as well if you'd like to upload it to docs. Keith's forum gets really technical, which I like. But I need to be in the right mindset to absorb everything. Data logging would be great. I am interested in seeing how you do this. I have a bluetooth 123 Ignition, but I am not sure how to pull that data and combine it with the AEM AFR data. That will be a future project. Weber_Repair_Document.pdf

For those of you tuning and learning about Weber DCOE carburetors, you may be in the same situation I was, where finding good information and knowledgeable advice has become increasingly difficult. I’m starting this thread to share information that others may find useful, and I encourage everyone to add their own experiences and insights. With that said, I want to recognize the work that Keith Franck has been doing. He runs a forum focused on Weber carburetor tuning and also manufactures custom Weber components. His forum can be a little difficult to find and isn't the most intuitive to navigate, so with Keith's permission, I've uploaded several of the documents he's written. His white paper, in particular, has been immensely helpful. Keith mentioned that it is due for an update, but even so, I found the information to be invaluable. https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft One thing I would highly recommend is installing a wideband O₂ sensor. I think it's almost essential if you're new to tuning carburetors and don't have much experience interpreting plug color, engine sound, exhaust smell, and the other subjective methods that experienced tuners often rely on. I installed an AEM X-Series, and it's been an excellent tool. It was easy to install, simple to set up, and completely removed the guesswork. Another key lesson I learned from Keith was to measure the fuel level with the carburetors installed on the car rather than relying solely on setting the float height while they're disassembled. Keith used to sell a tool for this, but he no longer offers it. I ended up using the depth rod on the back of a vernier caliper along with a flashlight. If you watch the fuel surface closely, you can see exactly when the meniscus is disturbed, making it surprisingly easy to get an accurate measurement. Going through this process revealed that my fuel levels were nowhere near the recommended 25 mm target. Correcting them nearly eliminated a lean bog that I had been chasing by richening the idle circuit. I still have some tuning left to do and will continue to post updates. Keith also designs and manufactures his own emulsion tubes and jets, which I may try next. Feedback from the community has been very positive. If anyone here has used them, I'd be interested in hearing about your experience. Weber_DCOE_Tuning_White_Paper.pdf Fuel_Level_Setting_Instructions.pdf

If anyone here buys this for parts, let me know. There are a lot of parts I'd love to scoop up.

Thanks! I had a feeling that was the case. Wow, the G-Wagon lights are close. They aren't inexpensive, though.

Has anyone ID'ed who manufactures these lights? It looks like they could be made by Sanube, but it's difficult to tell. Trying to determine if these are bespoke for Caterham or an off-the-shelf design.

haha, it's not as bad as it looks. According to Turn7, this is the way to put a 7 on jack stands.

Sunday morning, wheels off cleaning.