Origin7

I am glad ChatGPT recommended them. I think they could be a good resource. I'll provide an update when I get the cable assembly.

Got the cable out, but damaged the stem. Just ordered a replacement from this company. Looks like decent quality, and the knobs are interchangeable.

The choke cable on my Super Sprint was cut when my car was at the shop. With cold weather approaching, I am trying to get this sorted. It's turning out to be more difficult than I expected to find a replacement. All I really need is the new "inner" which is a solid wire (not a braided cable) 1. Is there a procedure to remove the wire from the knob assembly, then insert and crimp a new one? Figured I'd ask before I get forceful and destroy it. If this works, any idea where I can get a new inner wire? 2. I like the OEM look of the knob and would like to keep everything matching...I have the same heater knob. Does anyone know where I can source a whole new assembly? Thanks! Mike

Bump

It's a 1690cc Super Sprint. 10:1 compression (I believe)

I just went through a similar situation. Even a shop with a reputable pedigree couldn't tune it well, so I did it myself. Hope this thread helps: Message me with any questions.

That looks luxurious. I've never seen one like that before either. I am not sure what they used to fasten the elbow rest, but if I had to guess, I'd say a carpet snap. This is what was used on the late 80's floor mats. Here is a really good resource on various British fasteners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daeWWJD0CYQ I am working on floor mats now, and I am going to try the "lift the dot" type.

You're welcome! There isn’t much binding required. I only had the top and sides of the firewall carpet bound, along with a strip under the dash. The carpet under the seats doesn’t need binding. I haven’t made the floor mats yet, but coincidentally, the material arrived today. I’ll cut them to size, have the edges bound, and add some Lift-the-Dot fasteners. That should be all they need. If you decide to do it on your own, WoodWeld is a great contact adhesive (stay away from the spray stuff). I'd also recommend German square weave fabric. It cuts easily and doesn't fray easily.

If you’re considering doing it yourself, I found it to be a manageable project with some time and patience. I did mine last winter, cutting the carpet myself and having a local shop bind the edges before gluing it in. The original high-pile carpet is pretty forgiving of small differences in the fit. Materials came to about $300.

@ptegler need a spare?

Selling my chrome street roll bar off my ~'89 Imperial DeDion. The car was stored in a heated garage its whole life, so the chrome is in immaculate condition. $200. Local pickup preferred, but willing to ship if I have an interested buyer.

These are off an '89 Cat. They were working fine when removed. They have some scratches, as you'd expect from 37-year-old parts, but are in good overall condition. I also have the matching brackets if you need them. $100 plus shipping.

Rad!

This is off an ~'89 Caterham Super Sprint. The chrome is in great shape. The rubber seal is intact. It comes with two keys and the rubber boot that seals against the body. $65 obo plus shipping.

After months of experimentation, I think it’s time to wrap up my carburetor tuning adventures. I’ve tried different emulsion tubes, idle jets, main jets, and pump drain valves across a range of driving conditions and temperatures. I’ve settled on this setup, which is close to factory with a few minor tweaks: Choke: 32 Aux Venturi: 4.5 Main Jets: 125 (keeps AFR around 13:1 at WOT) Air Correctors: 165 Emulsion Tubes: F16 Idle Jets: 45F6 (richer than the factory 45F9, which was slightly too lean, especially during progression) Pump Jets: 35 Pump Drains: 0 (provides the full pump shot and eliminates the lean bog) I’ve driven with this setup at sea level in ambient temperatures from 50°F to 95°F, and it’s proven to be a good all-around combination for my car. The lean bog and rough transitions I had with the stock setup are gone. I also pulled the plugs, and the color looked good, perhaps slightly rich, but overall I’m happy with where things have landed. Hopefully, this gives others with a similar setup a good starting point and saves them some trial and error.

Speaking of 3D printing...I mocked up a roll bar that I designed over the weekend. Glad I had the printer to get a real-world visual and test fit. It needs a few revisions.

I have used them all in the work that I do. I can confidently say that Bambu Lab is the best value right now. I have the X1C, and it's perfect for what I do (higher temp materials). The P2S is another good option depending on what you want to do.

She's a beaut! Congrats!

Here are the ones I bought. You can get no-name brands on Amazon, but I can’t confirm their quality. For this kind of thing, I’d recommend a reputable supplier like DigiKey. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/vishay-general-semiconductor-diodes-division/1N4007-E3-54/754813 It’s not exactly plug-and-play, but it’s fairly straightforward if you have some crimp connectors and electrical tape. Heat shrink tubing is preferable if you have it. In the photo, the diodes are covered with heat shrink tubing and crimped into the spade terminal. When you install the diodes, make sure the gray stripe is on the bulb side (they are directional).

I like your roundel idea. The aluminum skin is slightly deformed in this area, and I think the roundel would blend it nicely.

Thanks! I was apprehensive about eliminating the spare, but no regrets so far.

@TC7 I recently went through making this decision. I ended up fully committing. I lobbed the tubes as close as I could to the frame. Then I hand-filed to get them flush with the rear skin. The remainder I filled with epoxy and sanded flush. My local Sherwin Williams (automotive) paint matched and made up a can for me. It needs another coat of paint, but I am happy with the way it came out. The stubs are barely noticeable. I mounted the license plate with velcro for a clean look. You could do this with your euro plate. The Super 7 decal will eventually go. I am trying to come up with a creative idea for the hole in the center.

eccentric belt tensioner

I can confirm @Scott_ and @7Westfield are correct. The diodes did the trick. Thanks to you both. I also had to change the wiring a bit as well. Previously, the two light socket terminals were connected to the right- and left-side indicator circuits, with no ground. I am not sure if this is typical automotive wiring; I haven't seen it before. Anyway, I changed it so the right and left are now connected to one terminal. The other terminal is now connected to ground.

For reference, this is a '89-ish imperial long foot box, De Dion. CTC between mounting bolts is 33.5". It doesn't look like this would fit your car.