redursidae

Understood, and thank you. Will inspect the grounds.

Good to know. One of the original tail lights was working intermittently before, so I will start looking around there. Any idea if missing reverse and fog lights might have something to do with this? Yep, I did. The car already had an LED relay, and I also tried JAL's relay to be sure.

Good news! The fuel has stayed in the tank since the Autocross, and what was dripping didn’t smell like fuel, instead some sort of glue or residue in the underside of the aluminum shelf. Since cleaning the shelf and the tank as best I could this hasn’t returned As far as overall fuel smell, it is much better. I only smell the breather doing its job when I slosh the tank on a spirited drive and it subsides after some cruising. Decided to do an LED swap with tail lights and indicators from Just Add Lightness, and headlights from Summit Racing. The headlights leave a little bit to be desired in their beam pattern but it’s decent. The tail lights are good and bright as needed. The indicators have not worked well so far, and cause all the lights to panic! With only one indicator on, all of the car's light flash, including the gauge lights. If I turn the lights on, then the buzzer is constantly on and the indicator bulb is lit. That’s a first. I tried disconnecting the tachometer to test the theory that the telltale could be the cause, but no dice, and not really sure where to go from here. This issue only happens with the LED indicators installed. Here is a video of the behavior with only the right indicator on: Another interesting new quirk is that while driving with the lights on I can hear the buzzer and see the indicator bulb light up intermittently as I hit bumps. This is making me think there is a bad ground somewhere.

It’s always best to find a local tuner and use what they recommend. Aside from that, Haltechs do have a large number of tuners willing to support them. The 750 may be enough depending on how much IO you plan to use, but on today’s tech I would consider the Haltech S2 or a Link Monsoon/Xtreme G4X. Those have faster processors and internal datalogging. Maxx ECUs have also become very popular and are highly capable.

These are stickers. The PO put them on so I don’t know where he got them. My friends have used these before, and I got magnetic ones for the Miata here too: https://www.autocrossdigits.com/

Yesterday was the PCA Autocross and got to take the Caterham there. It was a lot of fun to play with the car. Finished 5th of 42 in raw times and 1st in class. My only complaint is that it has too much understeer from likely a combination of alignment and tires. I raised the ride height a fair amount and didn’t check the alignment after, and I kind of expected I wouldn’t like the tires from my past experience in the Miata. But it’s ok, because I had a blast. unfortunately there is still something dripping down the fuel tank, likely fuel. I wasn’t smelling fuel however, so I didn’t worry about it and haven’t had a chance to check. I’m waiting for a bead roller to arrive to finalize the cap/breather job and will take better pictures of that setup then. Met another new Caterham owner that happens to be another SVT. He intends to roadtrip with it. Seeing his car on 13s made me really want a set and also verified that clearance is a problem with the wet sump. He offered to let me borrow the wheels to test fit sometime so I’ll have to take him up on that.

Yes, will do. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet, but this weekends autocross will be a good stress test.

Thank you @wdb . That does make sense regarding the other line at the tank being for a fuel return. The SVT doesn't have a return line or a pressure regulator*. Instead the pressure is controller by the ECU as a return-less system. *: The regulator on these systems tends to be inside the tank, but I haven't been in there or found information on it. Apparently it may not have one. I went ahead and looped the line as in John's picture. Hard to take a good picture, but the breather goes around and behind the tank up to the rollover valve, then over the filler and back down next to the tank. and capped the other line, but this doesn't feel like a permanent solution. It's a vacuum cap and I feel that's going to crack and leak. Open to suggestions as to what to use on this for a permanent fix. As a note it was definitely this other port above that was sending liquid fuel. When I removed the line it still had fuel in it, and tilting the line at the front of the car dropped more fuel out.

Thank you John! This is perfect. Then I'll go ahead and copy this system and cap the other port on the tank unless told otherwise.

My only guess as to how fuel could have made its way to the front is through slush when I last drove it, then maybe vacuum did something funny to start a siphon? But that's only a guess, I don't actually know. I filled the tank earlier this month to see how much it took and drove it to the nearest city, maybe some fuel made its way into the lines that day, but it certainly wasn't spilling over then. I agree about the tank ventilation and evap function. What's throwing me off is that my tank has two vents, one in the center and one at the filler neck. I don't know if it's ok to vent both with a rollover valve, or tee them together, or cap one while leaving the other one open.

Could you show me how yours is setup? No requirement where I live so I’m ok getting rid of it. But it’s my understanding that these came with this canister setup.

I came home yesterday to a strong smell of fuel in the house. Found the Cat spilling fuel from the EVAP canister at the front and had overflowed a catch can underneath the intake. The car had sat with half a tank of fuel since I last drove it the day prior, and the tank didn’t have pressure. This is the canister in the front corner. Hose marked is the one that was spilling fuel. There is a bottle down there that was full of fuel too. This hose in the tank is connected to the “purge tank” port in the canister. Is this the main tank’s breather? And the filler neck breather (?) is connected to the purge solenoid, which has a T going to the catch can that overflowed. It has the rollover valve near the wood pictured. Would appreciate any suggestions on what to do about this. It seems to me part of the problem is the filler breather is connected to the purge solenoid, which is normally closed, and has no connection to the engine. That’s probably a good thing in this moment as I think I would have found fuel in the manifold.

Thanks for sharing that. That verifies it is a variable system and does use cam period targets. You'll have to ask Haltech how that's supported in the firmware, and I'm very interested to know what they say about it.

Wow, now that's a very cool system I had not heard about before. Thanks. I haven't worked with these, but it is supposed to be a fully variable system, not a switched one, where one solenoid advances the period, and the other retards the period which is closer in control to a BMW S54 VANOS. From https://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_ MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm: That and other documents I read indicate it is variable, based on RPM and Load (either MAP or TPS). In Haltech you can select 2 solenoids for the Cam Control function, and wire them accordingly, but the part I'm not sure about is that usually these are cam phasing targets, but this VVC system is "cam period" targets? I don't know how Haltech would deal with that so you may be best asking their support line. Could you share a screenshot of the targets in the Emerald ECU?

The old hose had many small cracks. And the fixed hose installed. Much less odor after a drive although still found a wet spot at the bottom of the hose from hopefully a slightly loose clamp. We’ll see in the next drive. And in case I was feeling that the list of needs was getting shorter I found it needs new engine mounts and a fuel level sender gasket. are there any gotchas with replacing the engine mounts or will that be a straight forward process?