redursidae

Coffee stop before Santa Fe Cars and Coffee

Very good info from that video, thanks for sharing.

That’s good to know. A lot of people like them for Autocross around here as well. I see them in 15” and 14” on Tirerack. You say there is a 13” as well?

I drove a Miata with them but only on the road. The sidewalls felt stiff too. How do they feel in a Seven?

I’ve been watching these as well and was planning on running them late 2026 or early 2027. No reviews that I’ve seen, but worth the gamble for me. I dislike the R888Rs enough that I’ll try just about anything. Edit: I love the Nankang CRS V2 on my Miata. They’re fast, grippy and communicative. But I would fear their sidewalls are too stiff for a Caterham in the street? I don’t remember how the R888Rs felt in the Miata compared to the CRS

That's the closest guess so far. The driver side doesn't have this piece missing from the hardware. I'll refit the borrowed 13s sometime to check, but it sure was tight around there with those. As far as I can tell this car was built with these 15" wheels and the PO didn't mention having 13s fitted before. Haha yep too accurate. I haven't really driven it in a couple of weeks and the engine noise alone threw me off a bit at first.

Gotta say the color is up my alley. Would be bitting on it if I was still in the market.

Got around to fixing the torn CV boot. I wasn’t sure how complex it may be, and was glad it was easier than expected. I failed to take pictures of the process, but generally was: Remove caliper Remove axle nut Remove brake disk Remove DeDion ear Slide ear and bearings off the axle Slide axle off differential Remove clamps on outer boot and slide the boot back Remove the cup off the CV axle to expose the tripod Remove retaining clip Use 3 jaw puller to remove tripod from the shaft Replace the boot and use new clamps Dressed and greased the splines of the shaft and tripod Reinstalled the tripod on the shaft by lightly tapping with a hammer and an impact socket that fit over the snout/shaft/splines Install new retaining clip Generous application of grease on the needle bearings and cup Reinsert the cup and install the boot over it Crimp the new clamps Chase the threads on the DeDion tube, DeDion ear, caliper, and bolts Clean old sealant on DeDion tube Apply new sealant around tube Install axle Install DeDion ear and bearings (re-greased the bearings too) Install brake disk Install caliper Install axle nut Axle nut torqued to 200 ft-lbs, and everything else to 35 ft-lbs Bonus step: Wonder why this nut and washer are missing a piece. After making sure that there isn’t anything actively contacting the nut and washer or the new boot, I put the car on the ground and went for a cruise. All went well with no new noises, only the usual ones. Next up will be the engine mounts, the oil pressure gauge (that I still haven’t ordered), and having a side exit exhaust made so I can fit 13s. But I really need to work on the Miata's motor first, and itching badly to drive the Cat in the mountains, so maybe no further work this weekend.

Ha. I've tried, but it only has two velcro straps to tighten it, and they're maxed. I need to have someone sew some anchors I could attach to the rollbar until I get hands on a Soft Bits for Sevens top. Thanks for the info on those gauges. I like them a lot and I bet the quality is top notch too. I'll give it some thought, but the LED illumination may be the deal breaker for me at this time, because although the brightness could be tamed it would still be brighter and different color than the stock gauges (the pro version does have switchable LEDs which is nice). I guess if I were replacing them all at once that would be fine, but I'm not in a place to do that at this time. My temperature gauge does read low, so maybe some future man math may happen .

@Slonie I'm curious about the digital Stack gauge setup you mentioned. Could you share a link? I don't love the idea of having oil running into the cabin either, is just that the digital solutions don't seem to match the interior well. I'm probably overthinking this whole thing... I saw that Racetech gauge and it is neat, just the green letters stick out. Mocal sells a similar product with the same font and no branding which I like, although having two oil lines into the cabin makes me feel less comfortable still.

It seems I’m another victim of the stock oil pressure sender failures that are common with these. I’ve been reading about the mechanical gauges and will order one soon. I wonder how much of the sub 1 bar oil pressure reading was the sender dying or the battery voltage dropping. After Autocross I noticed a decent amount of grease in the right rear wheel which is coming from a torn axle boot. The axle feels good, so now waiting on a boot kit to arrive to have that fixed. For now I taped a bag around the slit after injecting grease into it. Definitely not a solution but it gave me the chance to go for another drive. Another development and impulse purchase are these Tillets off the forum The CFO wasn’t pleased but she understands the affliction. The stock rails in my Cat had M6x1 rivnuts where it bolts to the seat, but the Tillets use M8x1.25 bolts, so I had to drill the rivnuts out. My friend had leftover nylon washers from his Tillet install and I borrowed some. ~6lbs lighter per seat, and got me lower in the car. I’m pleased with that! I won’t be able to do the passenger seat until new belts get ordered (passenger has a 3-point belt), and that may be a while. I haven’t driven the car with the new seat yet, but intend to go for a lunch scoot sometime soon to try it.

I ordered one in May. We shall see!

The engine in that S1 must be a hoot.

I'm interested in the seats. Sending you a PM

A few pictures from the last Autocross! This week I’m going to try and coax the rear section of the exhaust to move away from the rear tire and test fit the Apollos again. I would really like to experience the difference.