redursidae

There we go. Glad to be able to stop wondering about this. Josh will be sending me a new boot kit soon and told me the same. I may end up with it one step stiffer for the rotation but plan to test it for fun and learning anyways. Thanks Austin.

Good to know! Yes I think I should just try it and take the car out for a spirited drive to see how it does. It is an easy experiment after all. Thanks for reporting back

Thanks for that. There is some personal preference and use cases with the sway bar adjustments, and I haven't driven many cars without a rear sway to say. Interested to hear what you think of it if you do remove it, and I suppose it would be a good experiment and practice to remove it. In theory it would increase understeer which is already easy to come-by in my car. Very interested to see that in a street driven Cat as well! Thanks for sharing.

Austin, what do you mean by it comes off with throttle steer? I don't really want to get rid of the bar if I don't have to. Below is the end-link with damage, the same one from earlier in the thread. Really bizarre to me that this could be the cause, but it seems I'm not alone after all: https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/263009-more-driveshaft-woes/ According to the posts on that thread, this is a known issue when running full soft sway-bar settings. And this is the new end link I got from Josh: Really curious to know if someone on here has had this happen, and under what circumstances. The link does move left and up if I have someone put load on the left side of the car, but on a right turn the right wheel should droop and have clearance. Anyways, probably best to move it one step stiffer for now per the advice on the other thread.

Found the cause of the ripped boot. It is the sway bar end-link I pictured while doing the repair, the one missing a piece. I don’t know how the physics of this works, but as the suspension compresses on the left side of the car, the rear right end-link moves left and up. With enough compression it makes contact with the axle. I’ll take pictures later of the damage. For now I installed a new set of end-links that’s the current style from Caterham, which makes more space for 13” wheels. I had to enlarge the mounting hole at the adapter to fit them.

We trailered the cars up there this time. GJMS is very worthy. You won’t be disappointed. When you do, Red Rock Racers are very welcoming and have monthly events during the season.

Earlier in October friends and I traveled to Grand Junction for some mountain biking and to attend a Red Rock Racers event. We started the trip with a cruise through the Colorado National Monument. A 45 minute drive in the sunset on a cool day that was quite nice. Near the end, a family of big horn sheep was crossing the road and gave us a stare-down. Didn’t get a chance to take a photo, but that was my first time seeing them up close. Oil pressure was good throughout and showed 25 psi at idle when we returned. The weather apps showed it would be a rainy track day, so we put the Cruela spec on and prepared for sketchy conditions. The clutch was feeling “funny”, grabbing very low, and I was founding it difficult to go into gear and was grinding easily. Noticed that it pumped up like being low on fluid, then found the reservoir was empty. Refilling it resolved the issues and held through the day. Gotta find the leak! We go to Grand Junction for Flyin’ Miata Summer Camp, although I missed 2026 because of my broken motor. Grand Junction Motor Speedway is a gem. It is a GoKart track, perfect for small cars like Miatas and Caterhams, and sits between an autocross and a big track. It has elevation changes, slaloms, hairpins, and small straights, with one that the locals call the banana straight that can be eventful, if say, you have a DeDion axle. In the second dry session I had a moment where the dip in the middle of the banana straight caused the car to hop and oversteer while upshifting to third gear. It was a good wakeup call. We had two wet and two dry sessions, 4 hot laps each session, but both of us skipped the 4th session due to standing water and heavy rain. This was my first time driving a track in wet conditions, and the car was very tricky to keep off the mud. Understeer at corner entry, and snap oversteer at exit…lots of fun once I got the hang of it, but I did loop it around once by locking the rear wheels. Seems to me I was applying too much brake while downshifting and while the rear tires were cold. I can definitely tell a lot of my downshifts were not as smooth as they should be. In the dry it behaved much better and I was able to set a respectable lap time, 1 second faster than in the Miata. That said, the tires are holding the car back, so I’m curious to see how it’ll do with Novas, the new Toyos, or maybe some Nankangs. My friend set a great lap time, 1 full second faster than me, and 2 seconds faster than in his Miata. The oil pressure stayed ok, with some flickers that are not too unusual from what I’ve seen in other VVT engines, and idle on hot oil was right at 20psi with 5w-30. I’m happy with that and may leave the oil weight alone after all since I don’t intend on tracking the car often. I stitched together some videos of the dry session, and the fun laps in the wet with some of my friends’ videos on top. I will warn you that I tend to talk a lot when adrenaline kicks in. The dry video is too overexposed so I’m attaching the one from the Miata as a reference too. Very happy with the weekend and how the car did. I learned a lot and had a great time with friends. Post-track once-over shows the new axle boot is ripped again. Will have to get down there and see if it’s making contact with something and do the repair once more. Yesterday I received a half-hood, aero screen and mirrors from CarYenta and I’m very excited to try them. The Half-hood fits very well and the mirrors are great.

Congratulations! What will be different in the Nürburgring edition?

How many wires are coming out of the sensor? 2 wires are reluctors (VR), 3 wires are Hall Effect. Can’t tell from the picture, but possibly the usual Hall Effect sensor used for MS installs: https://diyautotune.com/products/hall-effect-threaded-body-sensor Haltech sells their own version as well (and cheaper?): https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-010610-red-single-channel-hall-effect-sensor Using a Nexus really you just need something that’ll fit the threaded adapter and configure accordingly in the ECU. The beauty of standalones. Could also be a wiring issue considering your rats nest comment.

Oh this is so awesome, I don't know how I missed this until now. Congratulations on the new Caterham, and great choice on the throttle bodies.

Ah, bummer on the misfires. Do you know if it's setup as pure Alpha-N or hybrid? I run my Miata in hybrid and it has worked perfectly from the beginning. If you send me your tune and a log of it happening I would be happy to look and make suggestions, and will let you know what I think of the software when I look around.

Hopefully the noise is something simple like that. It usually is. And no, this is the first time I hear of these ECUs. I'll download the software and poke around this week, as it seems like a competitor to the Holley offerings with a similar target audience in mind. How do you like it? Does it run well?

We had a track day at Grand Junction Motor Speedway a couple of weeks ago. Two sessions dry and two sessions wet. It was my first time tracking in wet conditions, and learned the Cats are not friendly in the wet! A bit like house cats if you think about it. We also cruised through the Colorado National Monument at dusk and saw a family of big horn sheep crossing the street.

Good updates, and glad you were able to get in track this year. Sorry to hear about the drivetrain noise. Does it go away when stopped or clutched in? Does it get louder with higher ground-speed? Also curious what ECU you’re running on Bones.

I have used both Haltech and MS and would choose Haltech, but personally prefer LinkECUs. MS used to be open source, but is not after firmware 1.4 which is over 10 years old now. Regarding function, all will function well when properly tuned. How they go about it, documentation and support is where Haltech and Link shine.