oilteq

Bruce No problem. I put a ZX1 Zetec in my first Birkin and ran SAE 20W-30 for one of the drains. I was patient with warm up, particularly the few times I drove it in sub-freezing temperatures. By the way, when Ford was first pushing the SAE 5W-20 a couple years ago, I got tired of reading the press releases that said 5W-20 was best for fuel economy and durability. I knew that statement was only half right. So I called the largest Ford dealer in Europe and asked what oil is recommended for warranty purposes for the Zetec engine. He said 5W-30. I asked about 5W-20. After an uncomfortably long pause he repilied in his thick British accent, "But sir, 5W-20 is not available." Blaine

Most of the Se7ens have engines with sliding cam followers, and so I recommend a higher ZDDP level than permitted in current passenger car oils. Diesel engine oils tend to be a good choice for street cars because they have higher ZDDP levels, and the detergents inhibit rust during storage. Look for API CJ-4 SM oil, which is available in SAE 15W-40 and SAE 10W-30. If you live in the South, the 10W-30 may be hard to come by because it is considered a winter grade for diesel engines. For track work and high RPMs, you may want to consider a racing oil. Most racing oils have zinc levels between 1200 ppm (0.12%) and 1600 ppm, but can be as high as 2400 ppm. Always look for zinc levels, as many products are more marketing than performance. Most passenger cars call for SAE 5W-20 or 5W-30 to achieve better fuel economy. I prefer SAE 10W-30, as it calls for less of a compromise and I can wait a minute or two for warm up before putting it in gear. Approximately 20 degrees F separate the viscosity grades. An SAE 30 (or xW-30) at 200 degrees, an SAE 40 at 220, and an SAE 50 at 240 are all about the same viscosity. So if you are running stock bearing clearances and your oil temperature is 40 degrees higher than normal on track, you should step up to a 20W-50 and be patient at warm up. Mobil 1 users may want to read this http://jobbersworld.com/valvolinesletter.htm Blaine

Kyle I got a quick release from Pegasus (http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=STEERQD) that did bring the steering wheel an inch or so closer to the driver. It also gave a little more clearance for your fingers making it less likely to flip switches while autocrossing. And of course, it is an anti-theft device. Blaine

John makes a good point. Particularly if you have an ECU enforcing a hard rev limit, is the tach really that important? Blaine

My problem was the steering wheel blocked the important parts of the speedo and tach. Some racers twist their gauges so that the needles point straight up when everything is right, so they only need a quick glance and do not have to read the numbers. This inspired me to exchanged the speedo and tach from their original positions, and then twist them so I could see above 2000 rpm and up to about 70 mph without ducking. An image is attached (I hope).

Kyle Here are two things to consider. As the posts on this topic indicate, it is a good idea to take everything on a used se7en apart and reassemble it, just to be sure. It is not that much more work to install an engine and transmission in a rolling chassis. The most desirable engine for a Birkin or Caterham is the Duratec. (I define desirable as having the highest resale value, not that it is better for a given application than other engines.) There are very few Birkins or Caterhams with this relatively new engine in the U.S. The Duratec has an aluminum block and is lighter than the Zetec engine. It also has larger valves. So if you are looking for value, a few dollars in modifications to the Duratec will make more power than a huge investment in a Zetec. The Duratec is a better value in a new build. So, I would recommend at least considering the purchase of a rolling chassis, and installing the engine and transmission yourself. It is not that hard, and people on this and other forums are happy to help answer questions at every stage of the install. Also, it will not take much more time to build your own than waiting for just the right used car, and then taking it apart and reassembling it. Finally, if you find yourself being forced to sell the completed car, you will have one of the more desirable cars that will command a premium, even in a tough economy. Blaine

Size matters. http://www.usa7s.net/aspnetforum/upload/1390470076_n_a[5].jpg Birkin vs. WCM Ultralight.

Determine your goals and how involved you want to be with the build. I have seen Caterhams, Birkins, Westfields, Superformance, Stalkers, Ultralights, and Locosts up close. The Caterhams and Birkins appeared to me to have the highest quality, but keep in mind that I may be looking for different characteristics than others. There is a significant difference in the size of these cars. The larger ones provide more passenger space and can accommodate a larger engine without shortened oil pans. The smaller ones have a lower center of gravity. I recommend taking a closer look at a Birkin. The web site shows a list price for a roller of $20,000, but what is shown has full body paint with stripes and other stuff that does not make the car any faster or lighter. I am sure you can buy a kit for less. I have installed the drivetrains into two Birkins, and was impressed with the overall experience. Dick Brink is the importer (817-461-7431 dick@texasmotorworks7.com), and he has always treated me well. Parts were no bigger problem for my Birkins than my Elise. I am not affiliated in any way, and at this point I do not even own a se7en:cry:. I kept both cars about two years each, and sold them for over 90% of what I had in them. If you are thinking of resale value, I strongly recommend keeping a build diary as it makes a big difference to potential buyers. Don’t worry about being too tall, as you will be looking over the windshield, anyway. Blaine

With sports cars, bikinis, and government, less is more.

Are you in a rural or suburban area where there is little traffic? If so, I would figure out a way to use a booster seat, and maybe strap him in with a multi-point hitch. Do not test drive a se7en if there is a chance you will be stuck with a Miata (or almost anything else). I had a se7en before before I traded up(?) to an Elise. I wound up selling the Elise because it was too heavy.

And it is my understanding that the Duratec will bolt up to a MX5 6-speed transmission.

Does everyone on this list live in warm climates? When the topic of weather gear comes up, rain is discussed, but not cold. I live in the Midwest and drove my Birkin in temperatures down to freezing. The weather gear and heater made it possible. Yes, you have to be a contortionis to get in, and if you have a passenger, he or she had better be a close friend. And the blind spots are huge. But weather gear extends the number days you can drive in cold climates.

I hope the reporting in Kit Car magazine is better this year. Last year they ranked the names of the competitors and not the cars they drove, the reporter could not tell the difference between a Stalker and an Ultralight, and they did not mention that the timing lights were broken during nearly all of Friday's session. Perhaps it will be better reading this year.

Several years ago I bought a Birkin from a dealer that also sold the Superformance se7en. I never drove the Superformance, but I looked it over and listened to the dealer’s opinions. I liked the curved windshield of the Superformance, and the interior was very nice. Under the bonnet, the Birkin had more round tubing and the Superformance had more square tubing, including the shaft from the steering wheel. The Superformance was a little larger. I forget the numbers, but perhaps 2” wider and 4” longer. In fact, that is why the dealer had the Superformance. He had a customer that was afraid he was too big for a Birkin (he was no more than 6’ or 200 lb—wussy). The Superformance was less aggressive in its suspension and handling, and about $4000 more in 1999 or 2000. Honestly, I thought that Superformance quit importing se7ens. Birkins are imported by Dick Brink at http://www.texasmotorworks7.com. They have excellent support through Dick and the yahoogroup “birkinowners” http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/birkinowners/. I am not affiliated with any se7en manufacturer. Hope this helps answer part of your question. Blaine

Try here http://jdmultimate.com/Store/Product/drivetrain/p-10026.aspx

As a practical matter (yeah, like these cars are practical), I would recommend white. The stone guards on the rear fenders are not for decoration—the front tires hurl stones. The stickier the tires, the more stones they pick up and hurl rearwards. Assuming the glass is white, dark blue paint will show every rock chip. You would not notice rock chips with white paint.

I have had two Birkins. Keep in mind I have never driven a Caterham, Westfield, Stalker, WCM, Superformance (no longer manufacture Se7ens), or locost, but I have seen them all up close. I think the Birkin and Caterham are of similar quality (excellent), but the Birkin costs a lot less. At 5’10” and 170 lb, I prefer the smaller size of the traditional 7. The Stalker and WCM are larger (http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/birkinowners/photos/view/207c?b=1). The Stalker has a lot of potential for power. You can even fit a V-8 in a couple of 7 type-cars, but in my distorted view of the world that kind of misses the point. Birkin’s importer is Dick Brink at http://www.texasmotorworks7.com. There is an excellent support group called birkinowners at Yahoogroups.com. I think there is a guy in your area with one. I am not affiliated with Birkin in any way—just my 2 cents.