Croc

No kill switch sticker is required. Fire suppression system is not mandatory. Its nice but not essential. Carry one of those fire sticks or an extinguisher that buys you some time to get out or stop things getting worse. There are extinguishers in each flag station so if in need stop next to it and be prepared to grab it and use yourself. The dirty little secret on fire suppression systems is they are usually not great. They buy time and should not be relied upon to comprehensively extinguish every fire. No race suit needed. Gloves are nice but not essential. Long pants, long sleeved shirt and closed toe shoes are the requirements. Clearly choose a fabric that does not immolate you the moment it is exposed to a naked flame...

Which gearbox are you running in it? Original Moss 4 speed?

Congratulations on your new acquisition and welcome to USAS7. Sadly it is a little cold right now to have a good play with it but Spring will be here shortly. There are a number of other Rover-engined car owners on USA7s so don't think you are alone if you are confronting engine questions and need technical input. I think MV8 is right. If original then I expect it is a Ford Sierra diff housing with Quaife internals for a 1999 car. I assume you did the usual test to confirm LSD - on a lift, rotate one wheel, etc.? I would not top off the diff oil. I would drain/suck out what is there and give it all new fresh oil. I have never been a fan of mixing old unknown oil with new stuff. For spec, I would look up one of the Rover assembly manuals of a year near to your build year in the library on this site and see what they recommend for diff oil spec - you can get a match to a quality brand available in the USA.

You are buying the car of your dreams. Make the effort to try on in person and ideally drive. It may be worth waiting to get to Colorado with a visit to Josh do this properly. For all the emotion sprouting in the above posts on S3 vs SV, for most drivers, the SV will usually be the faster car in a track environment, despite the weight disadvantage, as the wider track gives a handling advantage of confidence to most drivers. I participated in the UK test of S3 vs SV vs CSR at Donington and it was eye opening for me. The SV wide track also softens some of the rear end liveliness that comes from mid-corner bumps. If you are in the top 5% of drivers then maybe the S3 is for you as you will be able to hustle it quicker in a track environment. if you are touring longer distances then the SV is better. If you are looking to slalom some back roads for an hour then the S3. A lot of the decision comes from thinking about your end use objective. But if you are looking for spousal approval then good luck. 99% of spouses decide it is not their thing. They would prefer something with a roof, climate control, and less wind blown hair. Maybe a Miata or Maserati or Corvette if you want her happy? Personally, I would ignore her and go for my dream car and keep her happy other ways - a new kitchen, holiday, shoes, or maybe a Dyson vacuum cleaner (like one USA7s forum member did this past Christmas )? The seven is a bespoke car. It’s like the tailored suit, custom made for you. Buy it for yourself. Debate it all you want here but it will not resolve the fundamental concern. You MUST try it on for size. FWIW, with your vital stats I bet you could manage an S3 pedal box with race boots on.

When I first was told that weight by Jon at RMC, I was surprised. It comes down to what they think works with that level of tune (runs rich), the way the dry sump operates, and prevailing oil temps the engine expects to run, which are fearsomely high on track with a CSR260. My logic would have led me to a different spec but I will trust Cosworth in this instance. It must work as there are a lot of long lived CSRs still running their original engines, including me. However, I am extremely paranoid about correct oil levels.

No its no anecdotal. Tracking the ads for 10 years does demonstrate a slow down in numbers of sales over the winter period - there is a seasonal effect. However as Scotticus notes, you still see the committed player ready to spend because they have a specific spec car they want and when it comes up on Bringatrailer or elsewhere they open the wallet for instant gratification. It all comes down to finding the right buyer for the car you want to sell.

Yes that confirms it - Rob was Solder_guy on USA7s. The seats came out of a yellow 2003 Caterham SV Zetec SVT that I used to own. I always felt tan seats did not work with a yellow car.

Cosworth recommend that weight for my Duratec.

@Donnie Was that Solder_guy's Rotus? If so then those seats came out of an old Caterham of mine. The cut in the leather was my clue - UPS did it when I shipped them to him.

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Wow - you just could not do that today. US military are just not paid well enough, Italy costs a fortune in most major cities, and we won't go into Maserati prices for a 3500GT (one of favorite Maseratis).

Set suspension to SOFT. Its a very bumpy circuit around that infield and the join to the tri-oval. Almost as bad as Sebring.

Most tracks have their form of "country club" track day club thing. They all have their program of upfront cost, annual membership, and then daily track day fees. WE run the annual sevens event there as it gives us a good track time quality without other big heavier cars in the mix to spoil the fun in the corners. We discovered this very early on in the running of this event. However, there are a lot of track day operators who you can purchase a day on track with. Motorsportreg.com is the site you should look at to find who is operating on what tracks and on what dates. Not all operators will take you as they specify conditions (car types, conditions, etc). But there are enough around that there are plenty of options to choose from.

Probably be another month or so before I get notice of the motorsportreg registration being open. Figure on February.

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sailing dinghy (without its mast obviously)

As a start, these are the obvious options available to buyers and sellers.

My 420R track car has always used Mintex 1144 all round and I am very happy. TFL has been changing its track customers over to the F2R compound. Harder to warm up but once warm they stay strong with little fade. Only one of their customers has asked to go back to 1144. I would not use F2R on street though. Once I go through the current 1144 pads I will try them.

Remarkable really. I am on original pads front and rear for 15 years on my CSR and have only just changed rear pads on the 420R after 30000 track miles since 2018.

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Total fan of the wide track set up on a Caterham. Which Caterham spring set would you go for? Track option? Or would you go custom?

Not at all. I used to race one and they were still quick even with the original puny power engine outputs. Its a different drive to the Birkin - less mechanical grip and more slip angles (= fun). Even so, as a one off experiment, I think you will find it a very interesting driving experience.

Nice choice of P-Zeros. I just changed to those for my 13 inch wheels. Lovely grippy things - lots of stones thrown back in the face.

After all these years of multiple Caterhams on track and I have never had a problem. I have read your issues with them over the long term and it really makes me wonder if you just had a bad set? Does the race set force you to ditch the handbrake? The race rears used to do so.

Carl - your sump guard came from George Alderman - he sold them when he was a dealer. I used the same sump guard on my old yellow SVT Zetec and it saved me many times. Its a simple design that works well and can be easily copied for a VX Caterham.