pureadrenalin

No need.... http://prescriptiongoggles.com/

Those cars are garbage with a capital G. The only people that ever seem to buy them are rappers, and people who want to show off. Hence, the massive chromed rims.

Do you know the size bulb? If so, just head over to oznium.com or superbrightleds.com and get an LED replacement.

While it's an expensive little monster, it sure would be an insane ride.

Anyone running one of these little monsters? I know they are pretty pricey...but..400 NA HP? I could only imagine what a quick spooling turbo, an additional 200hp, and some traction control yould be like...:willy_nilly:

what kind of power can a BE7 trans reliably hold without mods?

When adjusting a coilover such as this...there are things you need to know. If there is only one adjustment knob, it's for both rebound, and compression. You need to balance this with the spring rates on the car for the bst overall ride, and performance. A 300/250 may be the most comfortable for street, or too heavy. If the ride is still too harsh after softenting up the damping, then you need to switch to a lower spring rate. But..be warned, go too soft or too hard and you can blow out the valving in the coilover. Adjusting these is super easy as long as you have a pair of shock wrenches. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SPRINGWRENCH Without being able to see how these are attached, I can't comment on the ride-height adjustment. Most coilovers like this do it one of two ways, either by adjusting the collar touching the spring up or down the shock body, or having a separate collar that attaches to the car itself threaded over the shock body. As for having to lift the car back up after you pushed it down leads me to belive that you may already have a blown shock, with a dead spring. Contact Spax directly to figure that out. If you desire, you can measure the spring after you have it off the car for overall length, and I.D. and replace them with ones from Eibach, H&R, or Hypercoil. Hypercoils tend to be the least expensive, but perform just as well as the others. Make sure you set things so the car is level with the car fully wet, and the driver, or equivalent in weight in the drivers seat, then, get it aligned properly, fully wet and with weight in the drivers seat to equal yours. Make sure that everything is as close to perfect as you can for the most neutral handling, and I like to set my toe to zero degrees if possible, makes for a balanced car. Another really nice idea is to get it corner weighted/banaced if you have a shop around you that can do it. Makes the car even that much closer to perfect.

I have a Cobra, and I love it. Pics up cops with K band at BVR...laser detection is pretty good too, helps in heavy traffic where laser bounces off of cars ahead of me, gives me a few seconds of early warning. The only worry with laser jammers is if they activate a jam-code on the gun. If so, it can be seen as interference with police equipment, and obstruction of justice. They probably could impound your car, and search it if they wanted. Thankfully, with a good traffic lawyer, you can get any ticket wiped out easily and if they did impound and damage your vehicle, probably get it resolved easily.

Good read!

Would nearly bet on death at impact. He was hit right were the atlas, and axis sit in the spinal column. Breaking either of those is a less than 1% chance of survival. Given the force of the impact, between a highly probable C1/C2 fracture and displacement, it's also extremely likely that both internal and external jugular veins were severed, along with tracheal rupture and displacement. It's quite likely that he never knew what hit him. i feel horrible for Rossi, and I really hope this doesn't end his career as well due to psychological traumas. I know when Michael Park was killed in 2005 in a WRC crash, Markko Martin basically retired from the WRC, and has only been doing R&D work since, with an occasional rally. It was a horrible week, three racers lost. Two in events, and one in a private plane crash...all three were at the top of their game.

My understanding is that the rollhoop was torn from the car when it went into the fence. I can only imagine that the head trauma was horiffic. Many are calling for enclosed cockpits. For any of us that watch LeMans or saw the shunt that Allan McNish had, a closed cockpit saved his life, no doubt about that. Dan was a good guy, sucks...could have been one of the greats.

Sounds like a mass air flow sensor to me, or possibly even a cam position sensor. I know on the SRT-4, the cam position sensor was a huge issue, and wasn't present until 55mph, or 3k RPM, and honestly, it sounds like it presents similarly to what the SRT's does.

fair enough. I didn't realize that the drag was that bad. I mean, I knew it wasn't great, but a Hummer? Yikes. Well, I suppose, there isn't anything wrong with weight reduction, and some aero bits to help that. Thanks!

Looking at doing multiple long distance drives when I get around to building, and finishing my Westfield(...someday I'll afford one...) What is the largest tank that can be fitted? I don't want have to stop every 250mi for fuel. With a Hayabusa motor, and cruising at 70mph, I estimate 40-50MPG. I would love to fit a 20-25gal cell. Possible or no?

Patch the broken one, sand out any imprefections in the current one, buy some CF cloth, and use the broken one as a mold for a replacement.

Shaved Toyo R888, or RA1's. Dunlop isn't a bad choice either if you can find their race slicks. VERY, VERY consistent tire. Always use a scrubbed set for actual laps, you will get heat into them faster than a set of stickers. If you are having traction issues, look into Davis Traction Control. For heat, if it's allowed, buy some warming blankets.

Do it....

South Bend makes a ridiculous clutch. Incredibly overrated, and you can throw a ton of power at them without any problem. The clutch in my SRT-Neon from South Bend is rated for 500 ft/lbs of torque. It grabs like hell, but is very, very driveable. They build one for $370 that will hold 25% more torque. Which is quite a bit when you think about it. Not throwing a ton of power down, the clutch will last a very, very long time.

Check the alignment, and then close up the floor. Diffuser or not, eliminating the lift from the air packing in to the gap under the fuel cell will make a difference.

WD40 or BrakeKleen works well belive it or not. The whole goal is to breakdown the carbon chain, Brake-kleen does it exceptionally well. WD40 is also excellent at removing bugs, and rubber too.

Avon, they make a decent small performance tire.

Do not use softeners, not good for the tire, not good for you, and most tracks and all sanctioning bodies do not allow them. A few words on the "greasiness" Hot track temps always bring oils, fuel, and past layers of rubber up, makes the track slippery. If you couple that with an alredy polished surface due to a large amount of useage..say..Road America, the track is really, really slippy. Now, take a used tire that has probably hardened a little, and has been used past it's life expectancy. It's going to fall off quick and have little grip, leading to the loose/push issue you are getting. To go along with the loose/push type deal, you are probably overheating the tire a little or maybe a lot depending on severity, while pushing the car to go faster..it just makes it worse. When you find yourself getting into these situations you have a few choices. Back off for a bit and let the slicks cool off a bit to let them regain their traction. Drop the pressures a bit so instead of overheating, you are just bringing them in to proper temp. Last, make sure you stay out of the clag, and try to avoid running wide. If you can afford to, get a seperate set of tires for transport between pit lane/paddock. It'll prevent you from getting a bunch of pickup on the tires which also leads to issues. Lastly, avoid buying super inexpensive tires. You definetly need to buy tires that are quality. Hoosiers suck, period. You can get really good tires from the tire-rack starting at $100, shave some of those, and you get a really good tire for cheap. Lastly, be aware that all slick or competition rated tires have a specific heat range that work best for them. Pay attention to what that is. Every manufacturer can provide you with a spec sheet, or information on what is best for that tire, including numer of laps that are reccomended. Utilising a street tire that is shaved for competition use will gain you some life, but the tradeoff is grip. It's up to you to find the balance. The other big thing is to work on a proper setup. If you have adjustable dampers, play with the rebound/damping and ride heights. Even adjusting camber +/- one degree can make a vast difference in handling. Pay attention to where you are loose and pushing in coners, and see what you can do to change things. Sorry for the long winded response. And BTW, a heat cycle is bringing the tire from cold to operating temp to cold.

Performance all seasons. The highway departments do take good care of the major roads, so, besides being bloody cold for 50% of the trip, I think it would go smoothly. Then again, blizzards in Wisconsin can happen at any time..

Once I get one built. I intend on driving it from Wisconsin to Sebring for the 12hr race. Say 2013-ish. I plan on doing it in 24hrs, Leaving from Wisconsin in March, to beautiful sunny weather in Florida. It's something I've wanted to do since I discovered the 7.

For those of you who like a headset, but don't want to be tethered to the car..a manufacturer of intercoms we have on my fire trucks at work now makes a wireless headset. And, they are super, super comfy. Coupled with a good wind baffle if you have the VOX, it would make for an awesome setup. And IIRC you can wire in external audio for iPod's and the like. http://www.setcomcorp.com Also, this company (FireCom) make wireless headsets, as well as bone conduction with earpieces for a lightweight, non-muff style option. http://www.firecom.com