xcarguy

So, is the straight six is now mentally competing with the Busa V8? . . . . When's the install? :jester:

jevs, I'd like to ‘very respectfully’ caution you on using the Kirkey 41700 seats. As you already know from researching seats, the 41700 is designed solely for drag racing applications; straight line acceleration and positive longitudinal G forces with no lateral support above the rib cage (at the shoulders). Again, if you plan on tracking this car at all, trust me when I say you will want good above-the-shoulder lateral support in the turns beyond what the 41700 will offer. Essentially, you’re putting a straight-line seat in a car designed to turn left and right with great authority. When I’m on track, my straight-axle dinosaur is capable of pulling 1.5 G’s sustained in turns and has, per data logging, hit in excess of 2 G’s. Under such conditions, shoulder support is a huge plus, especially after several minutes of high performance driving. Have you considered something along the lines of the 47500 or 47700? As for tweed vs. vinyl; I’ve used both. Open top, no AC; I can’t scream loud enough TWEED!!!!!! :cheers:

Could this possibly be the car? http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=30&highlight=2000+birkin

. . . . . . . :drool::drool::drool:

Thanks! . . . . . . . I do like that forum name. :cheers:

Ouch! And that's a somewhat optimistic price.

jevs, Cerainly enjoying your (and toedrag's) build. I run the Ultra Shield Rally Sport; good all-around seat for the money. Where I to build a new Stalker today, these are the seats I’d use. However, this is one of those areas where you need to get what YOU want depending on the car's primary use. My car has migrated from mainly street driving to mainly track, so the Rally Sports serve me well. For long distance cruising (which I don't really do much of) they aren't the most desirable, but for the track, good bang for the buck. Whenever I decide to do a few highway miles, a small seat cushion goes along way. My Rally Sports are rigid mounted and sit atop two rectangular tubes that have been welded in place (laterally) on the steel tube frame; the forward seat bottom is bolted to one bar and the other is there for peace of mind as the only other thing that separates my ‘a$$’ from terra firma is a thin piece of aluminum flooring. A mounting tab is welded in place for the back to mount to. The link below pertains mainly to seatbelt mounting, but the photos also show where/how the seats mount. Having said all of this, if you plan on tracking the car at all, get a track-worthy seat with good lateral support for G-loading in the corners . . . . You’ll want that. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=21959 :cheers:

I don’t think Suave would take too kindly to being strapped to the hood . . . again. :jester: I tried that once, but as I sat him on top of the Lotus badge, his tail feathers caught on fire and his head spun around uncontrollably. :devil: He has since expressed an interest in something a bit less stressful, like parasailing behind the non-existing Storker on the straight at Lightning. :jester: Besides, if I cover up the badge, nobody would talk about it. :smilielol5:

Tom, Just for you, pal. :smilielol5:

I agree, LED's should illuminate heat and vibration issues.

jevs, Just some FYI you may want ahead of time; I used the chrome bullet type on another car I built and had trouble out of them from day one. The problem was three-fold: the lens actually melted from the bulb heat in two of the lights; the bulbs burned out in all the lights in a very short while (I think this was more due to no vibration dampening as replacements didn't resolve the issue); and the lens-to-body fastening was cheap at best (seemed more like an after-thought). As for the black housings, I like that look better, but still have concerns about no vibration dampening. . . . . . . :svengo:

Dressing up the brick. :smash: A few more mods (sans a good test hop) for the Storker Suave Special. A couple more hood mods; closed up the hood scoop and added a dual NACA duct: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=27279 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=27279 Gurney Flaps . . . . we'll see: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=27347 And finally, something that is actually from the UK for my NAPA nurtured Neanderthal, an aero screen: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=27375 . . . . . :deadhorse:

I'm the king of zip ties. O'Reilly loves me. :jester:

jevs, Thanks for sharing. You just 'uped' the bar on wiring. :cheers:

jevs, My apologies. I do remember you're doing the Classic R XL. If you decide to go with something like mine, here is the part number and a link (seven years and no issues . . . . still using the same bulbs): http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/ksi-11-2642/overview/vehicle-type/street/year/1992/make/kawasaki/model/en500-vulcan-500

subtle, Great to here you got the car out to the track . . . fantastic! As for the front brakes, I have an idea that might be worth a look. The Wilwood BP-20’s are the ticket for guys like me who are running manual, dual MC brakes with a bias bar. Do you happen to know is you are running BP-20 pads with the power assist? Here’s where my idea comes in; if you are running BP-20 pads, you might try dropping down to the less aggressive BP-10 pad. This might make the rears works a bit harder and possibly prevent the lockup on front. At least worth a shot before changing out your brake setup.

jevs, I used a turn signal from a Kawasaki motor cycle. I chose the light because it was rubber mounted and was a dual filament unit which doubled as a park light/turn signal. At the time (2007), I remember having a difficult time finding a dual filament light that was both small and fit the look of the car. Another part of my criteria was that I did not want a light that mounted to the hood which would require my having to unplug the lights every time I removed the hood (my hood hinges use quick release pins allowing the hood can be removed fairly quickly). To mount the light, I welded tabs on each side of the frame rail forward of the A-arms. If you beat the bushes, I’m sure you can find a light that fits the look of the M-Spec. FWIW, here’s what I did back in 07’ (third row down on the Gallery page). May spark an idea or two: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=9910

The obedience training is because the freezer didn't work.

That's small time stuff. My Storker now has a Westie-wanna-be double bubble wind screen and enough hood venting/ducting mods to get the Donkervoort crowd screaming foul . . . . . . . . Storkervoort, where NAPA meets the Netherlands. :ack:

I use plastic. Here, let me get the door for you. :jester:

The wheels area actually Center Line (corrected in my first post). When I bought my car back from Sharkey, he had the wheels in hand (he was planning on using them if he could source fenders). Let's just say I got the 'buddy' deal. :jester: However, these wheels are only available in widths up to 9.5". But yes, getting a custom offset would illuminate the spaces. FWIW, here’s CL’s site link for the wheels: http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=35&sw_id=462 Sharkey originally ordered the wheels through Summit Racing. Here is part of an email he sent me back in 2012: Center Line Wheels 9197804547 - Center Line Wheels Legend Series Lazer II Polished Wheels Wheel, Lazer II, Aluminum, Polished, 17 in. x 8 in., 5 x 4.75 in. Bolt Circle, 4 in. Backspace, Each $269.95 Center Line Wheels 9197954547 - Center Line Wheels Legend Series Lazer II Polished Wheels Wheel, Lazer II, Aluminum, Polished, 17 in. x 9.5 in., 5 x 4.75 in. Bolt Circle, 4 in. Backspace, Each $289.95

I'm not a big fan of polished either (I'm lazy and don't like rubbing on wheels :nopity: ). If need be, you can always powdercoat which took me from this: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20149 To this: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=21421 You first said you could upgrade to the Black Platinum's for $120 and then for $130 later in your post . . . stay away from those; they're going up as we speak. :jester: On a more serious note, get what YOU want; do it nice or do it twice. Personally, I like your very first wheel choice and would opt for those, if they are the size/off set you want (my wheels, from Center Line, have a custom off set). November isn't that far away, and by that time, you will still be knee deep into the build. A few years ago (quite a few, now) I built a 1926 Ford track T. I wanted a specific wheel/look for the car which meant 15" up front and 16" in the rear. It seemed that nobody in the lower 48 had two of either in stock. I beat the bushes of various wheel venders across the country and ended up ordering the wheels from different places. Long story short, it took some doing (patience and determination), but I didn't settle for something I didn’t want. The end result was I got the wheels I wanted and the look I wanted for the car. That Black Platinum upgrade is probably over $200 by now. :cheers:

Amen, brother! :jester:

I run 60 degree conical lugs and lug centric wheels for both street and track. Wheels are torqued by hand. Track wheel torque is checked prior to each track session.